Author Topic: JAX metal treatment (Read 2973 times)

Kmcmichael · « **on:** November 18, 2021, 03:27:52 AM »

Has anyone used this? Opinions?

rich pierce · « **Reply #1 on:** November 18, 2021, 04:14:09 AM »

Quote from: Kmcmichael on November 18, 2021, 03:27:52 AM

Has anyone used this? Opinions?

For what purpose were you thinking of using it? What metal, what color?

Kmcmichael · « **Reply #2 on:** November 18, 2021, 04:16:16 AM »

Black, I will be using it instead of rust browning a barrel and lock.

Kmcmichael · « **Reply #3 on:** November 18, 2021, 04:21:06 AM »

image upload

I like the way it looks on this pic.
I have only rust browned barrel with the LMF stuff.

jmf · « **Reply #4 on:** November 19, 2021, 04:51:15 AM »

Its the same principle as most cold blues like Birchwood Casey super blue etc. If durability isn’t a concern have at it. Otherwise a good rust bluing can be done at home with durable results.

P.W.Berkuta · « **Reply #5 on:** November 19, 2021, 11:00:08 AM »

My vote is for Mark Lee Rust Blue -- it will last a lot longer

Kmcmichael · « **Reply #6 on:** November 19, 2021, 03:52:46 PM »

I have no complaints against the Laurel Mountain rust browning solution I have used on the last two guns. I would continue to use it if I did not like the color of this.

Im not sure rust browning helps prevent corrosion other than holding oil a little better. I don’t want to build the tank to rust blue. I would like to hear opinions on this if anyone has them.

I have only used cold blue on small places and never saw it turn out as well as this.

I am sort of on the fence about trying it.

This is the stock I am finishing and think the JAX might look better.

Hatchet-Jack · « **Reply #7 on:** November 19, 2021, 04:42:34 PM »

If you're asking about Jax brass black, I watched Jim Kibler use it on all of the metal (not brass) parts for a SMR kit he assembled at the last CLA show. I liked the results and bought some from him. He has also used Historic House Parts Brass Black which I have tried. He said the Jax is better.

Kmcmichael · « **Reply #8 on:** November 19, 2021, 05:27:51 PM »

Yes, that is what I wanted the opinions on. Thanks.

bobw · « **Reply #9 on:** November 19, 2021, 08:14:39 PM »

Hatch-jack, did Jim recommend anything to protect the metal after the application?

Joey R · « **Reply #10 on:** November 20, 2021, 02:32:39 AM »

I second Mark Lee Rust Blue.

RichG · « **Reply #11 on:** November 20, 2021, 03:31:41 AM »

building a tank for rust bluing is easy. I use a length off metal gutter on my propane camp stove, works great.

sdilts · « **Reply #12 on:** November 20, 2021, 03:48:24 AM »

Here's my high-tech tank - a piece of galvanized fence post with an end cap sealed with high temp silicone gasket material and duct tape. Pour in distilled water and heat with a propane torch. Just finished this barrel today with Mark Lee's Rust Blue.

Hatchet-Jack · « **Reply #13 on:** November 20, 2021, 08:18:39 PM »

Quote from: boboreno on November 19, 2021, 08:14:39 PM

Hatch-jack, did Jim recommend anything to protect the metal after the application?

He did not sorry. I would oil it and use a good wax like Renaissance to protect it in damp or humid weather.

Daryl · « **Reply #14 on:** November 20, 2021, 10:46:08 PM »

If using a cold blue, I rub it in hard, refreshing the paste on the application pad of denim over and over and over again until I achieve a perfectly even 'finish'. Then rub it down under flowing cold water with clean pad of denim until all the 'solution' is gone, then dry with a towel then flush with WD40. Done.
Birchwood Casey's gun blue paste is what I like.
You could rub it back if you wanted, but it is fairly durable.

bobw · « **Reply #15 on:** November 21, 2021, 01:50:52 AM »

Hatchet-Jack, Thanks for the reply. I have now emailed Jim asking this question. The reason I ask, is because I had a barrel do some rusting after using his earlier product. I’ve used it on three guns and this is the only one that rusted. Of the three, I think one was a Getz and the other two were Rice, it was one of the Rice that rusted and to be on honest, I don’t remember how I treated that barrel. I have used finish, wax and oil on different barrels and never had issues. I did clean it up, retreated it, oiled and so far no rust.

Kmcmichael · « **Reply #16 on:** November 21, 2021, 04:21:32 AM »

Quote from: sdilts on November 20, 2021, 03:48:24 AM

Here's my high-tech tank - a piece of galvanized fence post with an end cap sealed with high temp silicone gasket material and duct tape. Pour in distilled water and heat with a propane torch. Just finished this barrel today with Mark Lee's Rust Blue.

That is a nice finish!

smart dog · « **Reply #17 on:** November 22, 2021, 06:45:27 PM »

Hi,
JAX makes a lot of well respected patination chemicals for metals so I suspect their blacking is very good. I suspect like instant blues, it will work very fast. However, most of the rust bluing and browning solutions are also very good and can produce excellent results. A lot depends on the surface polish of the parts and the time intervals between carding. The examples below are just Wahkon Bay rust browning and bluing.

dave

bobw · « **Reply #18 on:** November 22, 2021, 07:30:20 PM »

dave, would there be a possibility of you running through a tutorial on adding a spider sight like you show here? A new thread would be nice. Yours appears to be set into the barrel unlike what I’ve seen others do by just laying it on the surface. I saw Ron Ehlert add one years ago to a fowler barrel but not sure of the process anymore. I have one to do and think I know how but it would be nice to see one done by one with experience! I understand it would tough with pictures, unless your currently installing one, so just a write up would be helpful.

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Author Topic: JAX metal treatment (Read 2973 times)