Author Topic: RR Pipes  (Read 895 times)

Offline flehto

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RR Pipes
« on: December 09, 2021, 06:35:28 AM »
Shown   is a set of RR pipes for a Bucks County LR, but w/ a shorter finial on the entry pipe it could be used for many styles of LRs. Early on I just didn't like a full  length tab on the pipes and the resultant  long slot in the web and seeing I only use one pin per pipe, even on the entry pipe, why have the tabs so long? The tabs shown are 1/2" long.

So after the pipe is formed,  high temp silver solder is used to fill the groove in the ID and to close the tab. A reamer is then used to "clean out" the ID. The silver solder is 1/16 dia and 2 full lengths are req'd and it color matches the brass....which isn't important for the RR pipes, but I also use it on TGs. A Mapp Gas torch is used.

A size rod is inserted into the 2 piece entry pipe to ensure that both are aligned......Fred


« Last Edit: December 11, 2021, 10:53:06 AM by flehto »

Offline Mike Brooks

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Re: RR Pipes
« Reply #1 on: December 09, 2021, 05:54:29 PM »
I have always wanted to make a Bucks Co. gun but never wanted to tackle that rear is hard enough. BTW, Don Getz always used short tabs on his pipes.
Say, any of you boys smithies? Or, if not smithies per se, were you otherwise trained in the metallurgic arts before straitened circumstances forced you into a life of aimless wanderin'?

Offline Scota4570

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Re: RR Pipes
« Reply #2 on: December 09, 2021, 08:02:33 PM »
Nice looking entry pipe.  The fabrication method does avoid a lot of fussing around. 

I suspect some of the old timers must have used swage blocks.  I have tried the mandrill/pin and hammer method and find it frustrating.  I recently made a pair  of swage blocks that work with the mandrill and pin.  It is very simple and quick to knock out a near perfect entry pipe.  The size and complexity of the decorative tab does not matter to the difficulty.

Offline deepcreekdale

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Re: RR Pipes
« Reply #3 on: December 11, 2021, 06:46:55 AM »
I usually use a mandrel made from a 3/8 or 5/16 rod silver soldered into a 1 inch piece of scrap rad rounded of to make the transiition area to form my rear RR pipes. I think the secret is LOTS of annealing during the forming process. With practice over the years and lots of failed attempts I can now knock out a decent rear pipe pretty quick. Just for laughs, I recently made a 2 piece swage block out of some scrap Ipe wood which is about as hard as 1095 steel. Worked great but did take some time to make, if I need more pipes in the future I might use it again as pounding on that wood will not dent it no matter how you try.
”Far and away the best prize that life has to offer is the chance to work hard at work worth doing.” Theodore Roosevelt