RR Pipes

[flehto]

Shown   is a set of RR pipes for a Bucks County LR, but w/ a shorter finial on the entry pipe it could be used for many styles of LRs. Early on I just didn't like a full  length tab on the pipes and the resultant  long slot in the web and seeing I only use one pin per pipe, even on the entry pipe, why have the tabs so long? The tabs shown are 1/2" long.

So after the pipe is formed,  high temp silver solder is used to fill the groove in the ID and to close the tab. A reamer is then used to "clean out" the ID. The silver solder is 1/16 dia and 2 full lengths are req'd and it color matches the brass....which isn't important for the RR pipes, but I also use it on TGs. A Mapp Gas torch is used.

A size rod is inserted into the 2 piece entry pipe to ensure that both are aligned......Fred

 

[Mike Brooks]

I have always wanted to make a Bucks Co. gun but never wanted to tackle that rear pipe...life is hard enough. BTW, Don Getz always used short tabs on his pipes.

[Scota4570]

Nice looking entry pipe.  The fabrication method does avoid a lot of fussing around. 

I suspect some of the old timers must have used swage blocks.  I have tried the mandrill/pin and hammer method and find it frustrating.  I recently made a pair  of swage blocks that work with the mandrill and pin.  It is very simple and quick to knock out a near perfect entry pipe.  The size and complexity of the decorative tab does not matter to the difficulty.   

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=69024.0

[deepcreekdale]

I usually use a mandrel made from a 3/8 or 5/16 rod silver soldered into a 1 inch piece of scrap rad rounded of to make the transiition area to form my rear RR pipes. I think the secret is LOTS of annealing during the forming process. With practice over the years and lots of failed attempts I can now knock out a decent rear pipe pretty quick. Just for laughs, I recently made a 2 piece swage block out of some scrap Ipe wood which is about as hard as 1095 steel. Worked great but did take some time to make, if I need more pipes in the future I might use it again as pounding on that wood will not dent it no matter how you try.