More Questions on Pewter Nosecaps (a/k/a Pouring Pewter for Newbies)

[JLayne]

I have been reading the threads and tutorials on how to mask off and prep a project to pour a pewter nosecap. I recently acquired a Kibler SMR kit and am playing with the idea of adding one if I can work up the courage. Aside from the materials for masking off areas where you want to keep the pewter out, are there other special tools a complete novice like me should have to do the job? Do I need any special sort of cup or (small) crucible and tongs to melt the pewter? If so, what size and where can I get them? I'm planning on using a propane torch, and I see that there are several sources of pewter online in different mixtures. Is there any one source or alloy mixture which would work best for this application? I realize these are pretty basic questions, but if I try this, I really want to avoid ruining an otherwise outstanding kit stock.

Thanks in advance as always.
Jay

[P.W.Berkuta]

I use a small cast iron ladle mouth opening about 2-1/2" in diameter. It helps keep the melt hot longer than a thin sheet metal container. As for the "pewter" I use pewter if I can get it or hard cast bullet lead such as linotype. You can add in tin to the linotype to get it to pour a bit better - if you use anything other than pewter then you must do some experimenting with the pour temp so as not to scorch the wood badly. Good luck .

[martin9]

Track has pewter ingots for pouring nose caps. I've done 2 nosecaps with one and have enough left for a couple more. I just use a map torch and and old hand forged spoon/ladle. a bullet casting ladle works good as well.

[JLayne]

When using a casting ladle, are you melting the pewter in the ladle itself, or are you melting it in a separate pot and then dipping it with the ladle?

Thanks again.

Jay

[martin9]

I clamp my pewter in my vice and melt with the torch and let it drip into my ladle.

[Hungry Horse]

From the beginning, carve out what you want covered in pewter leaving a one inch ledge to pin it. A small hole counter winked on both sides anchors the nose cap.  Don’t buy pewter ingots. Go to a second hand store and buy something made of food safe  pewter ( engraved stuff is cheaper, and you don’t have to ship it. ) food grade is almost pure tin, much easier to cast than real old pewter. Use a carpenters pencil to put graphite on the wood on the  bottom of the carved out recess. Make sure you have a wooden cap to cover the top of the muzzle end. Use a cast iron ladle, or a big spoon to melt your pewter. Melt your metal til it domes and looks like chrome, no more. I use Manila folder, and duct tape, with a fine piece of wire wound around the bottom to help stop leaks. And a red hot bolt about six inches long that fits your barrel. Now, heat the bolt (the head should be bigger than the bore of your gun.) melt your pewter, and pour in one fast continuous pour. Done !!!

Hungry Horse

[tlallijr]

Pretty much what the others have said , the only things I would add is to dip a tooth pick in the melted pewter just before you pour it to make sure it won’t scorch the wood and you can use modeling clay to help seal any possible leaks with the painters tape and Manila folder.

[Darkhorse]

I would get the fore end of the rifle close to the finish dimensions, then cut your slots in the wood fairly deep. This will help insure the finished pour will not have shallow portions where the wood shows through the pewter.
I use TOW pewter, a simple water ladel and a coleman stove for melting the pewter.

[Dave B]

I found that the best way to block the leaks at the barrel stock gaps is to use wadded up 0000 steel wool. Modeling clay melts under hot metal and lets hot lead go everywhere. I had used 3x5 note card for my last pour and it worked fine. With lots of masking tape. I heat up the barrel before taping it up. I like the hot bolt in the barrel idea.

[Shopdog]

I use a cast iron ladle, heat with propane or map gas.  I'll skim any dross off the top before pouring.  I've never had issues with the modeling clay failing BUT I'm using an almost pure tin alloy and it melts at a low temp.  I've also heated up the barrel portion with the bolt idea but have also poured successfully without it.  The idea with that is to prevent uneven cooling/shrinkage when you pour your molten material.  If the barrel is cool it'll act as a heat sink.  While it seems intimidating the process is pretty simple with one caveat... BE CAREFUL!  Picking out the remains of a pour gone bad from your lock mortise, barrel pin holes, etc. isn't fun but that's nothing compared to getting spattered by molten metal.  Whenever you do this wear goggles (I prefer a face shield) and I always stand behind a sheet of plywood or scrap metal to protect my lower half and feet in case there's a leak.  The molten metal will spatter when it hits the floor!  The fun part is removing the excess once cooled.  The trick here is to set up your "mold" so you have enough metal to evenly fill the inlay and cool properly so you don't get dimples or cavities in the final product without having too much excess metal to cut or file off.  I have some old files dedicated to cleaning up the inlay - you don't want to use a good file and have to pick it's teeth clean from all that pewter.  I always work it down to close and then finish lightly with sandpaper.  Final finish with a scraper - that prevents me from removing too much wood within/around the inlay as the wood will give to your abrasive tools quicker than the pewter will.  Hope that all makes sense.  I'd do a practice run first on a scrap piece of wood if you've never done it before just to get the process down. 
Joe

[Clark Badgett]

Does babbit work for this type of application?

[P.W.Berkuta]

I don't see why not as long as it will melt at a low temperature so as not to scorch the wood. -- I would NOT use modeling clay I used it ONCE and it melted all over and left a gooey mess which was VERY DIFFICULT to remove.

[Dphariss]

I don't see why not as long as it will melt at a low temperature so as not to scorch the wood. -- I would NOT use modeling clay I used it ONCE and it melted all over and left a gooey mess which was VERY DIFFICULT to remove.

The barrel is a heat sink. If pouring REAL pewter and you heat is as hot as you would for 50-50 you will not get a tip. I stir it with a stick split off a 2x or 1x whatever pine and it needs to toast it pretty good if it’s something like silvabrite 100 or the pour will fail to fill properly especially if it has fine details. I have never scotched a forend and on the one’s I used to do on brass suppository guns there was a place where, if it really came out right in the cutting, might be little more than 1/16” wide.

Dan

[Dphariss]

I don't see why not as long as it will melt at a low temperature so as not to scorch the wood. -- I would NOT use modeling clay I used it ONCE and it melted all over and left a gooey mess which was VERY DIFFICULT to remove.

The barrel is a heat sink. If pouring REAL pewter and you heat is as hot as you would for 50-50 you will not get a tip. I stir it with a stick split off a 2x or 1x whatever pine and it needs to toast it pretty good if it’s something like silvabrite 100 or the pour will fail to fill properly especially if it has fine details. I have never scotched a forend and on the one’s I used to do on brass suppository guns there was a place where, if it really came out right in the cutting, might be little more than 1/16” wide.

Dan

The "ball" is 7/16"
Had to melt it off and repour. Barrel and or pour was not hot enough.

[Dphariss]

Finished, different rifle. Gotta blue that barrel one day
Don't have any close ups of them on MLs the last ones I did were horn.