Kibler SMR .32 kit in extra fancy Maple

[Hunterdude]

I have a question on the Kibler SMR kit build:
   I love the architecture on the kit with one very minor exception, right at the rear ramrod pipe the wood goes Very slim and I love that but there is a distinct "step". Jim reproduced this shape precisely from the rifle he was pattern the kit after. When you have the muzzle pointed up (as in loading) there is a little "shelf" right where the wood steps from thinnest up to forearm size.
   I kind of want to soften that step just a little, not eliminate the shelf but maybe a little larger radius on the corner or maybe a 30 degree taper? I don't want to mess up the architecture at all, just wondering how other builders handled this area, or hear reasons to mod it or leave it well enough alone. Thank you!

[flinchrocket]

Could you please post a photo.

[Hunterdude]

Photo is not my rifle, as my kit likely will not ship for a couple weeks yet. The stock "look" is growing on me, but the photo is cropped to show the area.

[flinchrocket]

I think if you look at some other mountain rifles you will find that is pretty common. Here’s a different angle, original William Hobbs.

[Hunterdude]

I agree that it is historically correct. I think where my brain got tripped up is when you see the raw stock(only) for the first time, that step "looks" rather large....Now what I have come to understand is After you install the ramrod pipes and ramrod....then wood finish....when you step back and view the whole rifle the ramrod Really makes the whole thing flow and look really nice...I think it is a non issue and kinda wish I had thought it thru before posting

[flinchrocket]

Did you see the entry thimble thread? It has some good photos.

[Hunterdude]

It's kind of funny, I found a Kibler SMR build with the "step" at entry thimble rounded or softened similar to what I was considering doing. Now that I have actually viewed it on the rifle, I find I much prefure how Jim did the shape on the kit!... Funny, those olde time builders sure knew what they where doing on southern rifle architecture, and Jim reproduced it flawlessly with CNC.

[Hunterdude]

Update:
My SMR kit shipped today, it has been 12 weeks to the day that I ordered. Delays where involved, but I expect it will be worth the wait.  Should have it by the weekend!

[mountainman]

I just  got my Kibler SMR in .45 cal. about an hour ago.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I built my Kibler SMR completely stock.  Here's how that area turned out on mine....

[Hunterdude]

That's how I want mine to look. Great wood on that rifle to.

[geb324]

Take your time watch his you tube videos they are very helpful. I have been building ML since 1974 Still picked up on a few things from Jims videos. He has put a lot of thought into these kits.

[Hunterdude]

Take your time watch his you tube videos they are very helpful. I have been building ML since 1974 Still picked up on a few things from Jims videos. He has put a lot of thought into these kits.

I have watched the videos and Really liked them, I will watch each one again right before I do the step in the build. I like the order in which he builds the kit....the only thing I may do differently is to install the butt plate first, the only reason is to protect the delicate toe area on the stock during the build process. It will be fun to build.

[geb324]

Watch the one showing how to use the drill kit Jim sends really makes drilling those holes simple and accurate

[Dphariss]

I have a question on the Kibler SMR kit build:
   I love the architecture on the kit with one very minor exception, right at the rear ramrod pipe the wood goes Very slim and I love that but there is a distinct "step". Jim reproduced this shape precisely from the rifle he was pattern the kit after. When you have the muzzle pointed up (as in loading) there is a little "shelf" right where the wood steps from thinnest up to forearm size.
   I kind of want to soften that step just a little, not eliminate the shelf but maybe a little larger radius on the corner or maybe a 30 degree taper? I don't want to mess up the architecture at all, just wondering how other builders handled this area, or hear reasons to mod it or leave it well enough alone. Thank you!

Its correct as is, it’s supposed to look like that. And rounding it will mess with the architecture. But it’s your rifle so make it like you want. In reality the stock just needs a little sanding a ferric nitrate stain and a boiled oil or linseed oil varnish finish, one coat well soaked in. Synthetic finishes don’t look right. Don’t use store bought boiled oil it’s not correct. For a CORRECT SMR many people over finish these guns. If not making my own I would use Chambers oil maybe thinned just a little about 10%, with real turpentine to penetrate a little better.

This is a Kibler finished as described. Standard maple. Not over sanded or overnfinished.

[Stoner creek]

I don’t really see the need for a ramrod pipe at the entry. There’s really no need for it at that location. I suppose that if there’s already an inlet there the pipe will need to be fitted. It’s kinda clumsy butted up against the stock there.

[flinchrocket]

That’s especially true if your not using a nosecap.

[geb324]

innlett it into the forearm about a 1/16th inch  makes for a nice clean look

[Hunterdude]

Update:
My SMR kit arrived in 3 days, this is what you will see when you open the crate with the exception of I ordered a Range rod and 2 spare Hickory ram rods.
    The quality of the crate alone tells you something very special is inside!


To be continued.....

[Hunterdude]

The stock shows nice curl. The delicate Toe area arrived in perfect condition, hopefully I can keep it that way until the butt plate is installed to protect it. Very pleased with the kit!!

[Spalding]

Have fun. I know I took a big sigh of relief once I installed that barrel in the stock for the final time! Every time I handled that bare stock all I could think about was those balsa airplanes I used to build as a kid.

Bob

[Hunterdude]

Have fun. I know I took a big sigh of relief once I installed that barrel in the stock for the final time! Every time I handled that bare stock all I could think about was those balsa airplanes I used to build as a kid.

Bob

I know what you mean! I am amazed at just how light the bare stock is, there just is not Very much wood there. I had been concerned about the Toe area, but now that I handle the stock, that section forward of the rear ramrod pipe is pretty delicate as well.

[Fly Navy]

Balsa airplanes, now that brings back memories. I still have a Ringmaster hanging on the wall in my garage.

[Hunterdude]

Update:
 Not much to report, I have been planning my build and watching the Kibler build videos, but I did unwrap the Kibler CNC lock and tripped it about 8 times. The nice Amber flint provided did not seem to degrade at all after 8 cycles and I am getting nice big hot sparks. I feel like the mainspring AND Frizzen spring are stronger force than any locks I have tried before. I thought for sure as I cocked it for the first time that it would really be a flint eater...the geometry Must be really sweet! I am thrilled to finally own a High Quality Flintlock.

[Scota4570]

That is beautiful, you will love it.  Here is a caution.  The toe has grain running such that is likely to chip out if not coddled.  It happened to me and I saw a thread on it recently.  Be real careful. 







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