Author Topic: Aging (Read 4695 times)

Dan'l 1946 · « **on:** December 28, 2021, 04:47:13 AM »

Has anyone used naval jelly to "age" a gun and if so, what sort of finish did it give? Thanks, Dan

J. Talbert · « **Reply #1 on:** December 28, 2021, 04:51:36 AM »

No, not for aging.
It will just give you a dull gray finish.

Jeff

Dan'l 1946 · « **Reply #2 on:** December 28, 2021, 05:23:32 AM »

Thanks, Jeff. I'm assembling this kit for a friend. It's a bit out of our purview as it is a Walker Colt. I just want to get it done so that I can start work on my Kibler SMR. Guess it'll have to be Clorox.

J. Talbert · « **Reply #3 on:** December 28, 2021, 07:16:38 AM »

If your going for an aged finish you might want to try a cold brown solution. Instead of carding between each coat which is the normal process for a nice polished brown, omit the carding between coats and allow the rust to build and the surface below will start to pit.
Eventually scrub off the surface rust with Scotchbrite exposing the pitting below and allow some of the rust to remain if you so desire.
At this point you can use some naval jelly or some of Jim Kibler’s brass darkening solution to dull the surface.

Good luck
Jeff

Dan'l 1946 · « **Reply #4 on:** December 28, 2021, 07:38:07 AM »

Thanks, Jeff. I'll give that a try.

Dennis Glazener · « **Reply #5 on:** December 28, 2021, 02:36:46 PM »

I once used Ospho-Metal-Treatment. It's a treatment that stops rust and makes a hard primer for painting.
I got mine at Sherwin William's for use on an old Mustang I was restoring for my daughter.

It turned my new barrel a nice silvery gray. I think phosphoric acid is the main ingredient. Also available in small spray cans at auto supply stores. Not sure this would give you the patina you are looking for.

Mustard and/or iodine also gives an interesting patina.

I like using plain old Laurel Mountain Forge browning solution then rub back with scotchguard pads or steelwool.

Dennis

J. Talbert · « **Reply #6 on:** December 28, 2021, 06:25:03 PM »

Just an added thought… probably wouldn’t be a bad idea to experiment on some scrap steel first.

Jeff

Dan'l 1946 · « **Reply #7 on:** December 28, 2021, 09:45:03 PM »

I did try this on a piece of scrap steel. Worked well.

alacran · « **Reply #8 on:** December 29, 2021, 04:09:16 PM »

Sure fire way to age a gun without trying. Finish it as a new gun. Leave the barrel in the white.
Take it hunting in the rain and camp in a primitive tent with it. Shoot it a few times while hunting, preferably at game. Spend a week doing this.
The results will surprise you.

WadePatton · « **Reply #9 on:** December 29, 2021, 05:17:47 PM »

Quote from: alacran on December 29, 2021, 04:09:16 PM

Sure fire way to age a gun without trying. Finish it as a new gun. Leave the barrel in the white.
Take it hunting in the rain and camp in a primitive tent with it. Shoot it a few times while hunting, preferably at game. Spend a week doing this.
The results will surprise you.

(x) Like

LynnC · « **Reply #10 on:** December 29, 2021, 10:11:37 PM »

Many years ago I did a SMR with cold blue then applied iodine and left it on for i cant remember how long. I then rubbed it back leaving some darker areas in protected areas.

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #11 on:** December 29, 2021, 11:10:25 PM »

Quote from: alacran on December 29, 2021, 04:09:16 PM

Sure fire way to age a gun without trying. Finish it as a new gun. Leave the barrel in the white.
Take it hunting in the rain and camp in a primitive tent with it. Shoot it a few times while hunting, preferably at game. Spend a week doing this.
The results will surprise you.

And 200 years later you'll finally have a nice antique job.

LynnC · « **Reply #12 on:** December 30, 2021, 09:02:09 AM »

I also recall a method using cold blue and Clorox but i never tried it. It is said to be rather aggressive.

Dan'l 1946 · « **Reply #13 on:** December 30, 2021, 09:12:50 AM »

Very aggressive. You have to stay on top of it. Dan

smoke and flames · « **Reply #14 on:** December 30, 2021, 03:39:31 PM »

You can slow things down a bit by diluting the Clorox. Also apply with at pad or brush but keep it moving and working it so it does not puddle then apply a cold blue with a greyscothbrite pad. When done let it sit a while and rub off with a clean scotchbrite and oil it afterwards you can also apply some browning solution also to vary the color

PAFlinter · « **Reply #15 on:** December 30, 2021, 08:15:28 PM »

I usually just burry my iron parts in manure, works great. Kinda smelly tho.

JHeath · « **Reply #16 on:** December 31, 2021, 05:48:34 AM »

Quote from: Dennis Glazener on December 28, 2021, 02:36:46 PM

I once used Ospho-Metal-Treatment. It's a treatment that stops rust and makes a hard primer for painting.
I got mine at Sherwin William's for use on an old Mustang I was restoring for my daughter.

It turned my new barrel a nice silvery gray. I think phosphoric acid is the main ingredient. Also available in small spray cans at auto supply stores. Not sure this would give you the patina you are looking for.

Mustard and/or iodine also gives an interesting patina.

I like using plain old Laurel Mountain Forge browning solution then rub back with scotchguard pads or steelwool.

Dennis

Some guys use toilet bowl cleaner, which is commonly 20% - 25% phosphoric acid, to improvise a "French grey."

Your Ospho sounds better, though.

J. Talbert · « **Reply #17 on:** December 31, 2021, 06:10:25 AM »

Quote from: LynnC on December 30, 2021, 09:02:09 AM

I also recall a method using cold blue and Clorox but i never tried it. It is said to be rather aggressive.

The cold blue/Clorox method, as described to me by the late Bob Harn, was to pre treat selectively the areas to be pitted with cold blue solution. This is then followed by applying or immersing the part in the Clorox. The Clorox will rapidly react to the pre treated areas, while the reaction to the untreated areas will be much slower, essentially leaving those areas unaffected.
The surface is then rinsed and carded with steel wool or Scotchbrite, followed by the desired final step of bluing, browning, or brass darkening solution…
The advantage of this system being the ability control the extent and the location of the pitting to only the areas desired.

Jeff

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #18 on:** December 31, 2021, 05:56:33 PM »

Good believable aging is an art. It isn't easy to make it believable. You'll notice EK isn't spilling his guts....😏

BOB HILL · « **Reply #19 on:** January 01, 2022, 02:03:30 AM »

Yes, Mike an art in itself for sure.
Bob

bob in the woods · « **Reply #20 on:** January 01, 2022, 02:34:02 AM »

Anytime I want to "age" something, I just toss it in the chicken house. After a week or two, it's usually well on it's way to antquedom

Fly Navy · « **Reply #21 on:** January 01, 2022, 08:28:19 AM »

Just curious why its usually just the metal work that is aged and the wood is perfect? I don't see many rifles with the wood beat up and half of the finish missing.

heinz · « **Reply #22 on:** January 01, 2022, 05:28:10 PM »

A well aged rifle will also have an aged stock with suitable patina and fading. Dings, gouges and deep scratches are usually left out of the aging process. Some builders, like Eric Kettenburg and Ian Pratt, do include them, on all surfaces.

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #23 on:** January 01, 2022, 05:40:18 PM »

Quote from: Fly Navy on January 01, 2022, 08:28:19 AM

Just curious why its usually just the metal work that is aged and the wood is perfect? I don't see many rifles with the wood beat up and half of the finish missing.

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #24 on:** January 01, 2022, 05:56:06 PM »

Quote from: Fly Navy on January 01, 2022, 08:28:19 AM

Just curious why its usually just the metal work that is aged and the wood is perfect? I don't see many rifles with the wood beat up and half of the finish missing.

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Author Topic: Aging (Read 4695 times)