Best oil for long term storage

[WadePatton]

That was interesting, Wade. Thanks. WD40 did better than I would have thought.
I think a futher test, with dried WD40 would be necessary.
Surprising, though.

Well it's only a test of penetrating oils and not of protective/preservative ones, and not long-term. But the results reflect that-that some products, touted to do both, only do one well.  I've watched a bunch of his comparisons since finding him when researching a car part. He keeps the format the same, so when there is a series of videos you can high-speed through most of it.

So I went back and looked at those again (because I forgot the one I wanted to try) and saw that it's lanolin-based.  I've been long been a fan of lanolin, so I got a big laugh. I had no idea it was in such products as I've only used it in the pure form and not for rust prevention. 
 

[PeteDavis]

Break Free Collector.

PD

[Craig Wilcox]

Having a hard time recalling the name of the stuff that the military drowns small arms in.  It does indeed prevent rust, but you'll play Hobb getting it out of all the nooks and crannies with hot water and your toothbrush.  Reacts well to either steam cleaning, auto parts washing station, or pure gasoline.  Had to clean a few of them including the suppository gun mounted in the door of a Huey.

Brain keeps saying "Creosote", but I know it's the wrong term.  BUT - it will keep your lovely presentation-grade flintlock longrifle free of rust for ages to come.

It eventually comes off your hands, but never off your clothes.

Cosmoline!  Knew I would remember sooner or later.  Sure have scrubbed enough of it off a few rifles and pistols.

[Spalding]

Having a hard time recalling the name of the stuff that the military drowns small arms in.  It does indeed prevent rust, but you'll play Hobb getting it out of all the nooks and crannies with hot water and your toothbrush.  Reacts well to either steam cleaning, auto parts washing station, or pure gasoline.  Had to clean a few of them including the suppository gun mounted in the door of a Huey.

Brain keeps saying "Creosote", but I know it's the wrong term.  BUT - it will keep your lovely presentation-grade flintlock longrifle free of rust for ages to come.

It eventually comes off your hands, but never off your clothes.

Cosmoline, and yes it’s messy.
Bob

[Scota4570]

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1014905735

I've been working on a jar of it for many years.  IF you warm the barrel, the Cosmoline melts making it easier to distribute an even thin coat in the bore. 

[Clark Badgett]

That was interesting, Wade. Thanks. WD40 did better than I would have thought.
I think a futher test, with dried WD40 would be necessary.
Surprising, though.

Back in my die maintenance and repair days, we would keep our polishing stones in a plastic bowl with WD-40. It worked very well so long as you kept fresh fluid in it. On those long weekends or the yearly shut down, you would return to a bowl of tar. WD-40 works extremely well as a water displacer, and I heartily recommend it for that. I also follow that recommendation with advice to get the WD-40 out as soon as you get the moisture out. I think that is advice I've seen you and your brother give out as well.

[Daryl]

Exactly, Clark, however we do leave a thin coat of it in the bore until the gun is used next. Then, powder poured in and a wet patch seated.  When using mink oil in the .32, that first one was
harder going in than the second or the 50th for that matter - no wiping for the duration.

[WadePatton]

I forgot I had a surplus can of cosmoline.  It's just as messy as pure lanolin, and a heap ton stinkier. But it works.

[MuskratMike]

As all my flintlocks are shot at least once a month the WD-40 is left in the barrel after the first treatment of WD-40 has done its job as a moisture displacement and wiped out the 2nd light coating of WD-40 just remains in the barrel. Before shooting I wipe the inside of the barrel with a cleaning patch wetted with isopropyl alcohol, followed by a dry cleaning patch. This removes any remnants of the WD-40 and leaves me with a perfectly clean and dry barrel.

[Hungry Horse]

 Wild Turkey 101, I been stored for 72 years and ain’t rusted out yet.

Hungry Horse

[Terry Reynolds]

Mobil 1

[OldMtnMan]

I assume we're talking about the barrel and not the lock and trigger.

This is what I use and never ever get any rust.  use is for the bore and outside of the barrel. It's been torture tested and came out perfect. I'm not pushing it because it's made/sold by a friend. The stuff really works. He also has another version that he added some bear oil to t. I like it for a patch lube.

[AZshot]

I've used CLP Break-Free for about 25 years on my guns, regular gun oil for years before that.  I started in humid NC and FL, and now I'm in the dry southwest, but never had any rust on any of dozens of guns.  If you are storing in a dry house, most oils will work fine.  If out in a wet log cabin, it's a little more important to pick a good one.  I'd still use CLP then...I don't anticipate having salt water sprayed on my guns for 24 hours like some of the torture tests do.  I did hunt in the rain some and none of my CLP protected guns rusted...I'd wipe them off each evening in camp, but they were saturated in steady downpours for hours sometimes. 

[OldMtnMan]

I forgot to add. There is one advantage to using your patch lube for rust prevention. There's no need to clean it out before loading. Just one dry patch to remove any excess.

[Daryl]

I never need to clean my bores before loading and firing. I do snap a cap on the cap-lock's nipple, though.
Guns are stored muzzle down so there can NEVER bee any pooling of oil in the breech.

[OldMtnMan]

Some use a petroleum and it needs to cleaned out.

[Dphariss]

I used Rig when I was on gov't paid vacation across the Pacific "some" years back. No problems. Break Free is pretty good. It tends to solidify into a grease. I don't use it on moving parts for that reason. I use G-96 Gun Treatment in the aerosol. Been using it since the 1960s. Never had a reason to cuss it even in the Monsoon season while on "vacation".
If you use an oil stand the gun muzzle down over night and let the excess drain out. Better on a paper towel than in the stock.

[Martin S.]

I used Rig when I was on gov't paid vacation across the Pacific "some" years back. No problems. Break Free is pretty good. It tends to solidify into a grease. I don't use it on moving parts for that reason. I use G-96 Gun Treatment in the aerosol. Been using it since the 1960s. Never had a reason to cuss it even in the Monsoon season while on "vacation".
If you use an oil stand the gun muzzle down over night and let the excess drain out. Better on a paper towel than in the stock.

The G-96 looks pretty good.  Is it safe to spray it on the wooden stock?  Will it ruin a finish?

[Daryl]

Yes and no.  At least it hasn't harmed any of mine.   MyDad used to say 'beware chemicals that smell nice". He was specifially talking about
chemicals like Rapid Tap, that change smell when hot.  I still have a can of G96 & even use a bit now and then.
I used it first back in the 70's- seems most everyone in Southern B.C. at the range, used it. Not hard to tell, just sniff the air when someone un-cases their pride and joy (meaning RIFLE).