What do I need to buy?

[joshbruce128]

Complete newbie here so be gentle, please.

Working on a Kibler SMR, plain maple. I am wanting this finish and and need some guidance. For the stock, because it's plain maple, do I need tannic acid AND iron nitrate, or just iron nitrate because there will be little to no curl?

For the metal parts, how would I get the grey/dark grey finish in the picture?

Thanks everyone, I'm sure I will have more questions to follow

[Daryl]

The only advice I can give, is to watch Jim's videos on building and finishing.

[J. Talbert]

Staining is largely a matter of personal preference.
You say you want the finish shown.  It appears from the captions on the pictures that a was done with just iron nitrate and bone black.  The bone black is applied during the finishing process and I recall seeing a video somewhere from Jim showing just how he applies it.

The gray finish on the steel parts can be done with brass darkening solution that Jim sells, which also works on steel.

Jeff

[Stoner creek]

I have seen where Mark Silver applied the bone black to the stock in certain places prior to stain as well.
Jeff you are correct about the metal finish. Cold blue or brass black will also give you the same results.

[Scota4570]

Jim also sells tannic acid powder.  It will make the Ferric nitrate stain come out darker.  In Jim's video he mixes the bone black with the finish and applies multiple thin coats. 

The gray metal is done with an antiquing solution Jim sells. 



Get on Youtube and search "jim kibler videos"

[joshbruce128]

Thanks everyone for the replies.

Just to make sure I understand, after the acid and nitrate, then on goes tried and true oil finish. Is this the "top coat" as a protective coating? Does it require multiple coats? Is there something over the tried and true oil?

[Daryl]

Multiple thin coats and follow the directions.

[moleeyes36]

Thanks everyone for the replies.

Just to make sure I understand, after the acid and nitrate, then on goes tried and true oil finish. Is this the "top coat" as a protective coating? Does it require multiple coats? Is there something over the tried and true oil?

For what it's worth, the captions under the pictures don't mention using tannic acid.  They say he just used iron nitrate and bone black.

Don Richards

[Mike Brooks]

Tannic acid will turn it black. I think i used it first then followed up with iron nitrate. Here's the color I got. I had to spend a lot of time rubbing it back as it went way dark.

[joshbruce128]

Can you define/describe "rubbing it back?"

I am so green.....

[J. Talbert]

Can you define/describe "rubbing it back?"

I am so green.....

Rubbing the stock with finish and some form of abrasive to lighten the dark color imparted by the tannic acid.

Jeff

[Mike Brooks]

Can you define/describe "rubbing it back?"

I am so green.....

Purple scratchy pad right after staining in this case, had to get the black off pronto. More rubbing back after the finish was applied as well

[Chocktaw Brave]

Wow Mike!
That color is fantastic! I I am getting ready to do my first stock as well, I really like the look of that.
Not to mention the beautiful carvings!
So tannic acid first, then iron nitrate? Did you use any bone black at all?
I think Jim Kibler has a video on YouTube about doing this double whammy.  I’ve been looking all over to try and find some tried-and-true oil finish. No one up here carries it.

[joshbruce128]

Wow Mike!
That color is fantastic! I I am getting ready to do my first stock as well, I really like the look of that.
Not to mention the beautiful carvings!
So tannic acid first, then iron nitrate? Did you use any bone black at all?
I think Jim Kibler has a video on YouTube about doing this double whammy.  I’ve been looking all over to try and find some tried-and-true oil finish. No one up here carries it.

I found it on Amazon, not sure if that helps you

[Bellke]

Good question at the top.   It's pretty much what I've been wondering also.  I've at the point of ordering a Kibler kit but I'm not clear on the finish even after watching a ton of videos.  Is the iron nitrate the only stain used?  do you use multiple coats to build up to the desired darkness.  Do you add an antique wood stain of top of the iron nitrate or in place of it?  I know this may sound simple to you have done all this before, but there's a lot of conflicting info out there.

I got the practice stock from Kibler to kind of test my carving skills.  I've confirmed that is not my forte, so I'm going with the belief that Less is More.  I'll do something very, very simple to personalize it but also want to give it that antique look.  I want to darken the brass and the lock too.

[Mike Brooks]

Wow Mike!
That color is fantastic! I I am getting ready to do my first stock as well, I really like the look of that.
Not to mention the beautiful carvings!
So tannic acid first, then iron nitrate? Did you use any bone black at all?
I think Jim Kibler has a video on YouTube about doing this double whammy.  I’ve been looking all over to try and find some tried-and-true oil finish. No one up here carries it.

One coat of tannic acid. Let it dry. Then one coat of iron nitrate. Let it dry. Heat untill it blushes. Rub back as needed. Put on multiple coats of finish. I like Chambers finish or Formby's tung oil finish.

[J. Talbert]

I got the practice stock from Kibler to kind of test my carving skills.  I've confirmed that is not my forte, so I'm going with the belief that Less is More.  I'll do something very, very simple to personalize it but also want to give it that antique look.  I want to darken the brass and the lock too.

I’ve seen many examples where “None” would have been more.
Just sayin…. 
Jeff