Jaeger rifle stock options?

[alacran]

Interesting video thanks for sharing. I have to question the need for a set trigger on a rifle that is meant to be used for quick shots off a horse and ranges less than 50 yards.

[Jakob]

Just in case anyone else is looking for options:
Just spoke to Pecatonica and they can do .62 cal swamped. for me in 31". They don't have the barrel in stock, but I can get one shipped straight to them and they'll take care of it.
Probably my best option, I think. (For what I need)

[Jakob]

So, having ooh'd and ahh'd a fair bit, talked here and there, studied a lot of pictures, I ended up with the conclusion that I couldn't quite get the stock I wanted in a suitable time frame, so I'm going to plank it.
 Well, almost. I'll be buying a piece of wood from Ron Scott, have David Rase inlet the barrel/ramrod and then take it from there. It also keeps it 'local' (Well, Cascadia-local) and makes shipping etc, easier.
 It means jumping in deeper than intended, but then that's how I've learned most things and I haven't drowned yet.
Again thanks to Ron for his willingness to share his knowledge.

[heinz]

Jakob.  Great choice in stock and inletting.  Ron Scott is an excellent resource on anything Jaeger.  If you PM me with your email I will be happy to send you photos of mine.

[Jakob]

Trying to sort out the last few pieces.
Given that it's a .62 cal Rice barrel, what size touchhole liner would be appropriate?
Looking at the 1/4-32 White Lightnin'. I assume I wont need finer threads on a barrel that size?

Sorry, I have many questions!.

[heinz]

Jakob, It is not the caliber of the bore as much as the size of the breech that determines vent liner size. You want the liner to fit nicely in the barrel flat.  I usually use the 1/4 32 liner from Chambers.  Even in a larger breech it gives you some room for vertical error in the pan placement.  It is a good idea to order the tap and tap drill from Chambers also.  They are an odd size and Barbie Chambers' are excellent quality.  And you might as well order four or five liners because flintlock building is an addiction, and that particular liner works very well.

[t.caster]

I like Heinz's good advice to you.

[Jakob]

That makes sense. Glad I asked! Thanks

[Jakob]

Well, there's no going back now!.

Barrel/ramrod has been inlet by Davis Rase, I just have to do the rest!

[Mike Brooks]

That's how I would do it.

[Jakob]

Well, I feel like I'm in way over my head, but breaking down the tasks, there's nothing I shouldn't be able to do.
I just have to do it one step at the time!.
Still waiting for mounts/locks and need to prepare my work area.

[heinz]

Jakob, take your time and go slow. Avoid power tools.  Remember you are separating the rifle from the woo that is "not rifle". And save your scraps.  They are useful for small projects and for patches if necessary.

[Metalshaper]

Heinz,

Did you make your bow saw?? and if not, where did you get it? I really like old style hand tools and what I refer to as 'Big Iron'
( the old 2 ton planers, mills and lathes and such !! )

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

[heinz]

I got here https://www.thewoodworks.com.au/shop/hand-tools/saws-frame-list-of-all/saw-bow-classic-400mm-turning-style-universal-blade-712968-detail.   I also have a smaller original 19th century one.

[Metalshaper]

THANKS!!

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

[Jakob]

 I'm not going to attempt to make a copy of a specific gun. Maybe next time..but I will try to stay as close as my skills and resources will allow me, with a few variations.
The base is Ron Scott's very fancy Suhl rifle, which can be seen in detail here:


I'm still waiting for a few parts, namely my early Germanic Lock from Chambers (still 4-5 weeks to go) and the mounts from Ron (Who's probably more desperate than me to get hold them), but I had to do *something* (and wanted to try my new vise) and cut down the first 1/2" of the breech.


I couldn't really go any deeper without finishing shaping the tang and also cutting the profile from the plank.
I can't, however, determine the profile without the mounts (and lock would be *really* handy too, although I do have a good reference)., but I wanted to get some work done, so I traced the original as best as I could in Adobe Illustrator and then spent several hours tweaking it to both fit the plank, my estimated measurements and keep the spirit of the original.
I can't add as much drop as original (and not sure I would want to)
I'll use this to get a plywood template cut out, which I can then also use to check for fit.

Original on top, my version at the bottom.

[martin9]

Your version should be a better shooter. if you have a gun that fits you you can measure the drop on it to get you in the ballpark.

[Jim Filipski]

You have far more artistic lee way building German guns! I have always thought it is strange why we in Pennsylvania are so tight A'ed in to building to a particular school.... what does it prove ? ....you can do it! How boring!
The German's built guns based on pure creativity!
Move on!

[Ron Scott]

Jakob, the top version of the stock profile looks to be closer to the original rifle than the lower version. As I mentioned by email, the reproduction butt plate will be higher toe to heel, so you can get the butt stock profile to match with a longer trigger pull.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

When laying out your stock it is very important that you get enough drop at the comb and at the heel.  the comb is perhaps the more important measurement.  If you don't get enough drop at the comb, your rifle is going to smash your face cheek bone every time you shoot it.  How much is enough...my experience with my own face tells me to get at least 1 5/16" drop at the comb.  At the heel, around 2 1/2" is ideal for me...I'm 6'2" x 230 pounds.  I also like a trigger pull less than 14"...14" is starting to get to be too long for me.

[Jakob]

It's pretty close.
I cut out the profile from some plywood and printed off a barrel and some sights and put together a mock-up.



Printed some sights and a few minutes with a rasp to round off the 'comb at the contact point.



I had to take 3/16" off to get it to instantly line up when mounting, but this is not including the cast-off.

Ron, yeah. with the lower heel drop, I had a hard time incorporating the slight curve at the bottom of the stock, without compromising the shape of the wrist. I'm also somewhat limited to what I can fit on the wood, but with adapting it to fit me, that may not be an issue.

[Jakob]

And I'm finally starting to cut some wood!
Got the profile cut out today:


That was a terrifying experience. I don't have a bandsaw, so was using one at the local Makerspace and the combination of my inexperience with it and somewhat beaten up guides made this nerve wracking. I ran a practice cut on a chunk of maple first and it actually turned out ok.
However, I'm not sure I'll want to use it to slim down the forestock and will probably do that by hand instead.

Should finish fitting the breechplug/tang this week and then onto the lock:



Initial plan was to use an earlier Germanic flintlock from Chambers, but shape would still need some re-work. It then took a fair bit longer for Chambers to get going on these and meanwhile I watched Mike Millers Jaeger rifle DVD and he modifies a Gun Makers kit to make it fit his project.
 Since I've already jumped in with both feet, I went "why not" and got hold of one from MBS.
It involves removing the bridle, but it's very well explained so I'm not too worried about it. (famous last word).

Anyway..I'm up and running now. I got (almost) all the parts I need and the remaining bits should turn up in the next couple of weeks.
I'm aiming to have this finished for the BC Rendesvous end of August, which *should * be doable.

[Rolf]

Thank you for posting your progress. Looking good. Please post more of your work as it progresses. A lot to learn.
I plan to build two left -handed jeagers in the future. I've got the barrels and one stock blank. Plan to make the locks from scratch and have been focusing on learning lock building. Finished four pistol locks and at the moment working on four left handed versions of a Alex Henry lock.  I'd like to make a left handed version of the lock offered by Chis Laubach, but I need more practice before I attempt that.

Best regards
Rolf

[Jakob]

Having finished inletting the tang/breech


It's now time to attack the lock.
 I've previously worked out a template with Ron Scott


And after an initial test on the front of thelock, I mount it on the back and mark off the outline. This doesn't have to be 100%, just to check for space for the internals

Mounted the internals and decided I can shave another 1/8 of the tail.

I could probably take more, but this is also very close to the original size.

Then to the fun part. I mount the template on the front with some 3M 77


And then start sawing. I'm reasonable with a jewelers saw, but I've only sawed maybe 18ga silver before, never steel this thick.
I'd bought 2 dozen of size 3 blades, but I could easily have gone size 1...anyway..2 hours and 19 saw blades later.


It was worth it though. Didn't take much cleanup with a couple files before getting real close to the final profile.


I'll finish that when I get fresh eyes on it tomorrow.

[Jakob]

Initial reshaping work on the flint cock done. Will probably tweak it a bit later.
Also started on the lock plate itself. Moving really slow, as I don't want to remove too much!
At the end of each session , I like to polish it up to at least 400, so I can get a better sense of how it'll look when done, but today I got a little carried away.