Set triggers

[Goose]

     Has anyone had a situation with set trigger where you could not grind enough of the rear trigger plate to allow the hammer to be cocked without setting the trigger first? I hope I'm just having a senior moment here. Thanks

[Stoner creek]

Back the trigger main spring off a little bit OR install a detent screw under the trigger main spring. I’m dealing with this now on a skinny little kids gun

[Ross Dillion]

Sounds like the trigger bar on the triggers is too high while at rest. You could try a leather washer under the mainspring where in screws into the lock plate. Look where the spring contacts the notch on the rear trigger while at rest. File a little off there. Be careful, a little goes a long way.

[martin9]

+1 on Wayne and Ross' replies. I just went through the same thing and did file the flat of the rear trigger where the spring pushes against. A little goes a long way is absolutely right. I thought I didn't remove very much but wound up having to replace the rear trigger. On the second trigger I used a combination of filing the trigger bar and the spring contact spot and it works fine now. My bar got fairly thin but still trips the sear no problem.

[Goose]

     I backed the mainspring screw off to the point where the mainspring had no tension, no help there. I'll look into shimming under the mainspring next.

[Ross Dillion]

If you unscrewed the mainspring screw the rear trigger bar should’ve lowered by quite a bit. Make sure there’s nothing binding and holding the rear trigger bar up. Without actually having the trigger in my hand it’s tough to diagnose the issue. I’ve also had grind a little on the bottom of the spring nose and/or shorten it. Without seeing your trigger I can’t recommend that.

[J. Talbert]

Here’s what Wayne is talking about above.
The screw in the plate behind the rear trigger raises the mainspring resting position so that it’s not bearing on the rear trigger at rest.  This allows for a little play and lowers the unset trigger bar position.



Hope that helps,
Jeff

PS
The triggers pictured are new, never been installed.  The bar height will be reduced further at the time of installation.

[Goose]

         This is what it looks like through the sear hole

[Stoner creek]

It looks to me that you still have plenty of knife left on that trigger. Unless I’m seeing this wrong you should be ok with grinding more off. Don’t be afraid of taking metal off. If you take too much you can always solder some back on.
 Here’s where I am and I’m still not satisfied.

[Ross Dillion]

I was thinking the same thing. ☝🏻

[Goose]

     Ok, back to the grinder. I'm surprised at how far down you've gone Stoner. Thanks guys for all the help.

[Carper]

Here is the rear trigger of one of Ross’ that is on a about as keen a rifle as can be. Matter of fact you can encircle the whole rifle and touch your thumb and index finger and I have short fingers. I like to leave as much metal where it doesn’t interfere with the sear because I believe it is more reliable to have as much mass on the trigger bar as possible when it hits the sear. Rather than file the whole trigger bar down. As you can see mine are just cut down a touch more than yours and I skinned a hair off the bottom of the sear bar as well. Hope this helps, I feel your pain.

[sdilts]

I do the same as Carper.

[PAFlinter]

I've never left a "divot" on my sear.  No reason for the other material to remain,  it doesn't make it any stronger.  The weak point it the thin material.  I like them flat across,  just looks better to me.

[Goose]

      Got it!!!!. Thanks guys for all the help. Especially Stoner. If you hadn't posted that picture, I would never thought I could grind down as low as that. The picture got rid of that mental image in my head of " don't go to far "  Thanks again guys.

[RAT]

I've taken metal off the "shelf" where the main spring bears against the read trigger.

I've taken small amounts of metal off the sear bar.

I've bent the sear bar slightly upwards.

I've bent the trigger bar/knife slightly downwards.

If you bend stuff remember to anneal and then re-harden.