Pattern or instructions for fur-trimmed Canadian cap

[rich pierce]

1) Are these made just like a 4-panel colonial workman’s cap?
2) Is the band of fur about 3 fingers wide and flipped up and tacked down?  Or sewn inside out in a tube then turned fur side out? Something else?
3) What about the fur tuft on top- how is that managed?
4) I’ve got some dark blue stroud weight wool cloth and enough of a tanned beaver hide. What would you use for the cap liner? Linen or thinner wool?

Thanks for any help.

[Robert Wolfe]

I made one with four panels as you describe. I tacked the fur onto the outside only. I put a cotton band on the inside to form a partial liner to keep my forehead from getting irritated by the wool. For the ball on the top I took a circle of fur and used some scrap fabric to stuff it as I sewed it up into a ball. Then tacked it onto the had. I use mink collar that I picked up cheap at a thrift store so it was likely more supple than your beaver.

[MeliusCreekTrapper]

Those are the basics, yep. I used four panels of wool, fully lined with light to medium linen. The fur strip i like about two and a half inches wide. Sometimes depends on the fur. Shorter fur you can go narrower. Long fur looks weird if its too narrow. Just whip stitch the fur strip to the bottom edge of the cap, careful not to pull the stitches to tight and shrink the cap. With the top edge loose, you can flip it down over your ears when its real cold. To make the tuft, just use a small circle of fur and drawstring it shut, similar to a cloth covered button.

[rich pierce]

Thanks for the good advice, fellas!

[MeliusCreekTrapper]

Beth Gilgun wrote an article with canadian cap instructions in it. It was in Muzzleloader magazine and her book, Tidings From the 18th Century.

[bluenoser]

I made this cap decades ago and may well have followed Beth G's instructions.  Be forewarned - the following is based on memory.  It is sized for my 7 3/8 head and fits exactly as I would want when the fur is turned up.  It is a little snug around the ears when turned down and I believe I would slightly flare out the bottom 3 inches of the outer fabric if I were to make another one - probably only about 1/16 inch per side on each panel.

To size the panels, measure the circumference of your head, divide by 4 and add your seam allowance.  I likely added a 1/4" seam allowance.  It is advisable to do a test fit by stitching together four panels of any reasonable weight fabric.

The lining is linen and the outer fabric is mid-weight wool.

To assemble, stitch together the four panels of each layer and press the seams flat.  Then, tack the lining to the outer fabric at the peak and stitch around the lower edge of the lining using appropriately-colored thread.  Stitch the ends of the fur strip together to make a tube.  Stitch the tube along the lower edge of the outer fabric and then along the lower edge of the lining.  In retrospect, I probably stitched the strip along the lower edge of the outer fabric and THEN stitched the ends together prior to stitching along the lining.  Seems it would be an easier approach.  Don't forget to turn and press the seam allowance along the lower edge of the outer fabric.  I honestly can't remember how I made the tuft of fur, but it feels as though I cut a circular piece and drew the edges together prior to stitching to the hat.  Turn the fur strip up and you are done.

Both the Canadian cap and workman's cap are very comfortable

[rich pierce]

Very nice. Super helpful.

[rich pierce]

Got er dun. Very warm! Not recommended for heavy exertion unless it’s bitter cold.

[Robert Wolfe]

First class, I like it!

[MeliusCreekTrapper]

Very nice, and yes, they are very warm.