Creating an Antique Lock Finish?

[Wolfeknives]

I am finally finishing my Kibler mountain rifle kit. I hope that I have not turned a $1000 rifle into a $80 rifle. Since there is no carving or engraving to worry about, I have tried to use it to learn as much as I can about finishes. Thanks to this wonderful forum I managed to find great help for stock and metal finishing and the little bit of inlay work. I am finally closing in on the end.
I very much like the finish Bill Shipman created on the flintlock shown below. Unfortunately I had some trouble photographing it to show the fine finish. I sanded my lock parts to a 2500 grit finish. This will be cut back somewhat when rubbing bock the finish in the end.
I have experimented on a scrap piece of steel, but have trouble getting the fine finish.
I assume Bill used cold blueing to achieve the dark patina. That seems to work out well for me. To rub the finish back, I have tried maroon and gray Scotchbrite, pumice, and rottenstone, as well as combination of these. I ave not been able to get close to getting the fine grained finish as shown in the photo of Bills lock below.
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

[Dphariss]

Usually casehardeing in plain water with Kasenit gives a nice gray color. Cherry Red will fo this as well but not as "clean" as Kasenit>
Just be sure to hang the lock plate on a wire and dip it straight in tail first when quenching.



Or you could cold blue it then carefully rub it back.

[J. Talbert]

This was done with multiple coats of Homer Dangler’s cold brown, allowed to build a significant layer of rust without carding after each application.  Eventually rubbed back with Scotchbrite and fine wire wheel.
This engraving is also more typical of export locks that were often used on SMR.




Jeff

[Spalding]

This was done with multiple coats of Homer Dangler’s cold brown, allowed to build a significant layer of rust without carding after each application.  Eventually rubbed back with scratch brite and fine wire wheel.
This engraving is also more typical of export locks that were often used on SMR.




Jeff

Sorry, don’t mean to hijack the post, but that’s a beauty, Jeff. Who’s and what lock is that? Modified Chambers late Ketland?

Bob

[J. Talbert]

“Sorry, don’t mean to hijack the post, but that’s a beauty, Jeff. Who’s and what lock is that? Modified Chambers late Ketland?”

Yes it is a modified late Ketland from Chambers.
Thanks for the compliment,
Jeff

[Wolfeknives]

Thank you for the help. I will experiment some more. I am not set up for case hardening right now, but need to do that. The browning looks great as well.
I would have loved to add some engraving to my lock, but from what I gather it would not be correct for the style?

[Bob Gerard]

I 'antiqued" this lock and barrel using Dixie's Cold Browning Solution. I like the stuff.

[smallpatch]

Here’s what I usually do. Sand, file, smooth all surfaces. Brown, with a cold browning solution, waaaaaay longer than normal, till you get some pitting.
Sand it all off, leaving the pits, then cold blue.
Rub back with scotch rite with your favorite oil.Voila!

[duca]

Usually casehardeing in plain water with Kasenit gives a nice gray color. Cherry Red will fo this as well but not as "clean" as Kasenit>
Just be sure to hang the lock plate on a wire and dip it straight in tail first when quenching.



Or you could cold blue it then carefully rub it back.

Exactly how is this done? I have a can of Kasenet, would like to try this method
Thanks
Anthony

[alacran]

You have the parts cleaned off more than enough. Good suggestions have been given so far. Another thing you may want to consider is using Naval Jelly.
As with all the aforementioned methods, you will need to experiment. You can get a nice grey patina using Naval Jelly and can also use cold bluing such as Ospho blue over it.

[Bob Gerard]

What will Naval Jelly do for the metal finish? Sounds interesting.

[J. Talbert]

What will Naval Jelly do for the metal finish? Sounds interesting.

By itself, it will turn the surface a dull gray.

Jeff

[Wolfeknives]

Thank you all for the suggestions. I played with a number of them, and decided on a relatively lightly used look. It is actually somewhat darker than the photo shows, especially below the pan. I did manage to get rid of the polished appearance as well.
It will be easier using one of the other methods for my next project.

Wolfgang

[Dphariss]

Usually casehardeing in plain water with Kasenit gives a nice gray color. Cherry Red will fo this as well but not as "clean" as Kasenit>
Just be sure to hang the lock plate on a wire and dip it straight in tail first when quenching.



Or you could cold blue it then carefully rub it back.

Exactly how is this done? I have a can of Kasenet, would like to try this method
Thanks
Anthony

Heat to red. Coat with compound. Reheat then quench in water. Hang the parts on wires. Make sure the lock plate goes in straight down its length to avoid “curves”, warpage. If it curves and is not through hardened heat to 375 in an oven they straighten the plate. I use an arbor press if this happens. Just make sure the part is evenly red in dim light. If too cool it may come out of the water “dirty”.  For wear parts I may do 2-3 coatings and heatings to get decent depth.
Dan

[Dphariss]

Here is one I did yesterday. Cock did not come out as "clean" for some reason.
Wish I had a 5 pound can of Kasenit. About out.

[Dphariss]

I did this one last year. It had to be bent to go back in the inlet.