If I were to make a DOM tube I would first slit slit a width commensurate with the diameter of the tube I want to start with, prior to subsequent operations, from a cold rolled or hot rolled coil. I would add a tad to the width 'cause I'm going to squish it together when I weld it, I'll scarf off the excess after welding. Then I will run it through a shot blaster to remove scale (Hot rolled), or just because, if cold rolled.
Then it goes into a buncha' forming rolls which bend it across the flat kinda' 'W' shaped, then to round. Now I'm going to heat the edges really hot and push them together to forge weld them. Now I have a tube with a ridge line of squished out steel on both the inside (I.D.) and outside (O.D.). I'll remove that with a cutting tool conformed to the I.D. and the O.D., and remove the burr. An NDT will show me if I got a good weld. If not, I'll scrap the guilty length, and cut the remainder to lengths suitable for mass production. Think 30 or 40 foot lengths.
Next I'll run it through a Normalizing furnace (1700*) which will anneal the weld line. Then off to an acid bath, and application of drawing lube (Animal fat based, really. sound familiar?)
For those who haven't fallen asleep, or got bored and left the room, now the fun starts. DOM!
A point is pressed on the leading end of the tube so it can be pressed into a die (O.D.), by a mandrel (I.D.) on a captured rod.
A carriage containing a set of inertia pliers (the more the pull, the more the grip) grabs the point and reduces the tubes dimensions on the O.D. by the die, and I.D. by the mandrel. Excess goes into elongation. In some cases this process is repeated several times.
If, big If, the NDT missed a lip on the scarf, it just became part of the tube, and an issue, Or, maybe a score by 'pickup' on the mandrel which may have been what the OP saw.
There's the 'Cliff Notes'.
Cheers,
R