Cosmoline alternatives?

[Tacksman45]

Hi everyone,

I was wondering if there are any products like Cosmoline which you can purchase a small amount of (less than a quart) at a hardware or auto supply store which have the same corrosion inhibiting properties?

Thanks!
Tacksman

[T*O*F]

https://www.mcmaster.com/lubricants/manufacturer~lps/

[yulzari]

Vaseline is essentially a refined version of cosmoline. Just less sticky and softer but preserves in the same way and easy to remove.

[Daryl]

Rig works wonders, maybe better than cosmoline.

[Scota4570]

LPS-3 is a spray that dries like a tacky wax.  You can find it around.  Fluid film is a close second.  Midway used to sell actual cosmoline. 

[Curtis]

https://www.mcmaster.com/lubricants/manufacturer~lps/

Nicely inclusive sampling!   

Curtis

[Dennis Daigger]

RIG. In my opinion as good as it gets.
Dennis

[JBJ]

Another vote for RIG. Never has failed me.
J.B.

[doulos]

RIG is the best long term storage protection Ive used.

[Tim Ault]

A few good heavy coats of wax will work just as well . Think about it if you seal the surface from air and moisture it can’t rust . Regular ole bearing grease works well too but a bit messy . Now if I was burying a metal whatever in a crate underground I’d want good old fashion cosmoline 

[Bob Roller]

Rig works wonders, maybe better than cosmoline.

R.I.G.= Rust Inhibiting Grease and it works.
Bob Roller

[Mike from OK]

Since we're on the subject...

I am assuming that if you don't remove all traces of RIG from the bore you will suffer the consequences during cleanup after shooting.

Mike

[Daryl]

All rig that isn't wiped from the bore before loading, should be blasted out with the first shot, as it was totally wiped down onto the powder with the first loaded patched ball.
Am I missing something?

[Mike from OK]

All rig that isn't wiped from the bore before loading, should be blasted out with the first shot, as it was totally wiped down onto the powder with the first loaded patched ball.
Am I missing something?

Makes sense if you load a tight enough combo to squeegee the bore and rifling.

Mike

[Scota4570]

Are there any first hand experience cases where petroleum caused tar buildup in a ML?

 I have never seen it.  Has anyone seen it with their own eyes?  I'd like to know the exact circumstance.

It is put out there constantly that petroleum and BP do not mix.  There myth and superstition associated with BP.  Is petroleum tar a real thing?

 

[bluenoser]

It has been my standard practice for decades to clean with warm water, followed by a WD40-saturated patch and then two dry patches, followed by a heavy application of RIG.  I run one, or perhaps two, dry patches down the bore prior to the next shooting session and have never had a either corrosion problem or a fouling problem.  I use spit patches on the range and, even though I do not clean between shots, fouling is so minimal that it is a non-issue.  I can't say I buy the admonishment to not mix BP and petroleum products.
Another vote for RIG 

[Mike from OK]

Are there any first hand experience cases where petroleum caused tar buildup in a ML?

 I have never seen it.  Has anyone seen it with their own eyes?  I'd like to know the exact circumstance.

It is put out there constantly that petroleum and BP do not mix.  There myth and superstition associated with BP.  Is petroleum tar a real thing?

I've got a cheap flint pistol I could test it out on... Easy enough to yank the barrel and scrub it out if the myth holds up.

Not going to try it with one of my long guns.

Mike

[Daryl]

The taboo on mixing petroleum with black powder, may have to do with cleaning, but mainly is a no-no as a patch lube.
Petroleum produces, oils, etc, do not mix, soften with nor emulsify black powder fouling. That is where animal fats and water
based "lubes" shine.

[bluenoser]

I do agree with Daryl with regard to patch lubes and avoid petroleum-based lubes when situations such as hunting dictate the use of a lube.  In my experience, Bee's wax/bear grease and bee's wax/lard both perform well.

[Daryl]

In colder climates, the use of beeswax is not necessary or advised. Track's Mink oil or 100% Neetsfoot Oil work just fine, by themselves.

[Bob Roller]

In colder climates, the use of beeswax is not necessary or advised. Track's Mink oil or 100% Neetsfoot Oil work just fine, by themselves.

there is a chunk of beeswax in my shop that has turned to stone in the cold weather.Not much difference in the hot weather either.
Also a pint of sperm oil in a can that dates back to Moby Dick and Captain Whatshisface I have had for 60 years.Used the first can in
home made bullet lubes for my Whitworth.Also used it on the final patch after a cleaning .
I have heard sperm oil can't be sold or sent now so I will keep it.
Bob Roller

[alyce-james]

Good afternoon y'all & ladies. I'm a dime short and a day late. Put me in the rig column. AJ.

[Dphariss]

Mix petroleum with BP fouling, add heat and pressure. If this is not take removed and more oil is mixed with more fouling you end up with something akin to asphaltic concrete. Make sure all the oil is out of the bore before shooting. Make sure all fouling is removed before oiling the bore.

[Dphariss]

I have note used rig since I got the letter from the draft board to be at the bus station in 1970. Its too hard to remove. I might use it if I were leaving again for a year or two.

[Daryl]

I still have the tube of RIG I bought about 30 years ago. It's still vital and I've used it rarely. It's dry enough here and I am sure in Livingston Montana as well, that it isn't necessary.
If I still lived at the coast I would use it more, as I did when down there. I don't, so I don't need it, but it is indeed SUPER at preventing rust in higher humidity conditions.