Author Topic: Soldering brass  (Read 1757 times)

Offline hortonstn

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Soldering brass
« on: March 11, 2022, 04:15:31 AM »
What do you use on brass when soldiering to keep flux and excess brass from sticking
Makeing a  2 piece nose cap
Thanks

Offline bptactical

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Re: Soldering brass
« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2022, 04:24:50 AM »
1st be as neat as you can with your work.
2nd graphite such as a pencil will keep solder from sticking.
3rd and this is a maybe-I’ve not done this but heard it works- paint some Milk of Magnesia on the areas you don’t want solder and allow to dry.
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Offline Scota4570

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Offline Curtis

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Re: Soldering brass
« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2022, 08:33:38 AM »
I use brass colored silver solder from Rio Grande. 

https://www.riogrande.com/Product/Brass-Wire-Solder-20-Ga/132201

https://www.riogrande.com/product/sheet-solder-for-brass-bronze-copper-and-yellow-gold-filled/503052

I do my two piece caps much like Acer's post that Scota4570 linked to.  The vinegar really get rid of the hardened flux.

Curtis
Curtis Allinson
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Sometimes, late at night when I am alone in the inner sanctum of my workshop and no one else can see, I sand things using only my fingers for backing

Offline Jakob

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Re: Soldering brass
« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2022, 10:13:02 AM »
Pickle it in a Sparex #2 solution. Back in my jewelry days I used mini-crockpot to keep it warm, but it's just for a single item, just mix it in hot water.

Offline hortonstn

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Re: Soldering brass
« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2022, 04:47:31 PM »
Thanks I'll give it a try

Offline flehto

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Re: Soldering brass
« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2022, 10:42:03 PM »
W/ a 2 piece Mcap that has the end plate inside the "sleeve", I use high temp silver solder {melts at approx. 1200 degrees F} w/ borax as a flux. The sleeve is wrapped w/ wire for a good contact between the sleeve and end piece which is 1/16" inside the end of the sleeve.   On the inside  corner of the 2 pieces, a suitable length of  high temp 1/16 dia   silver solder wire is formed to the inside shape of the sleeve and is against the end piece {1/8" thick brass}. Borax flux paste is applied and the area is heated w/ a Mapp Gas torch. The silver solder has a brass color and is invisible. The outside of the  closed end of the  Mcap ass/y is smoothed up on a disk sander and polished.

I imagine soft solder could be used, but I was gifted a  whole lot of the  silver solder wire and also the same silver solder but in .005 thick sheets which is also used for various  purposes.....Fred   

Offline davec2

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Re: Soldering brass
« Reply #7 on: March 11, 2022, 11:10:14 PM »
Hortonstn,

This is a re-post of part of the work I am doing on the muzzle cap for the tiny rifle I am doing for my grandson.  Thought it might be of some help......

First step, cut out a piece of 0.032" thick brass sheet and anneal



Second, do an initial form around a piece of EMT tubing





Next, refine the curvature as the cap rolls in to contact the barrel sides.  This is done with a nylon hammer and a steel mandrel.....



The lips of the cap were left intentionally a little long, so here they are trimmed to proper height



The height is checked on the barrel (upside down from where it will be installed, but a good place to check at this stage in the fabrication process)



After cutting a small piece of brass for the front of the cap, both pieces are cleaned of oxide and surface dirt, fluxed, and set up for silver brazing



Here I have cut a couple of small pieces of silver braze alloy and will melt them into a ball and pick them up while still molten on my soldering point



The parts are heated to brazing temperature from the outside and then I have placed the solder on the inside of the joint.  It runs immediately and the second piece of solder insures that the entire joint is complete.



After brazing, a quick pickle in dilute hydrochloric acid to remove scale and flux residue



A quick inspection of the joint shows it to be tight and completely brazed





Most of the excess brass on the face piece is clipped of with tin snips



A few file strokes and the face piece is brought to near final contour



Now I smoked the end of the barrel and put the cap in place so I can tap on the face piece with the nylon hammer





The result is a smoke print of the muzzle on the inside of the cap.  The barrel flats are beveled slightly at the muzzle so the print is a little undersized but it will allow me to get very close before the final fitting.



Most of the face piece brass is cut away with files and some back and forth check to get a tight final fit



Final check on fit and the completed tiny cap




"No man will be a sailor who has contrivance enough to get himself into a jail; for being in a ship is being in a jail, with the chance of being drowned... a man in a jail has more room, better food, and commonly better company."
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Offline hortonstn

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Re: Soldering brass
« Reply #8 on: March 12, 2022, 02:07:12 AM »
Dave
That was great thanks I actually made 3 today and my problem was getting a good fit on the barrel
I'll try the smoke tomorrow
Appreciate your time

Offline HighUintas

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Re: Soldering brass
« Reply #9 on: March 12, 2022, 07:07:33 PM »
For a steel muzzle cap, does there need to be any modifications to this process?

Offline davec2

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Re: Soldering brass
« Reply #10 on: March 12, 2022, 09:19:03 PM »
HighUnitas,

Not as far as I am concerned.  I would use this same process for steel or brass or silver or gold, for that matter...and I do.  The one slight modification is removing the flux on steel.  HCL (hydrochloric or "muriatic" acid) will eat the steel as well as the flux.  You can still use it, but you must be a little more cautious about the dilution and how long you leave the part in the acid.  HCL will not bother copper, brass, gold, silver, etc., but it will dissolve steel, iron, and aluminum fairly aggressively.
"No man will be a sailor who has contrivance enough to get himself into a jail; for being in a ship is being in a jail, with the chance of being drowned... a man in a jail has more room, better food, and commonly better company."
Dr. Samuel Johnson, 1780

Offline kutter

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Re: Soldering brass
« Reply #11 on: March 12, 2022, 10:49:32 PM »
I remove the glass like flux after hard soldering from steel with just a trip into plain boiling water. Leave it in there 10 or 15 minutes and it'll disolve.

The part(s) have to be polished anyway, so any scale goes away with that.

If I do want to remove heat scale from steel parts  and I do when I anneal some case hardened parts to work on them on other gun projects,, I use a very weal soln of muriatic acid (hydrochloric) and water and let the parts soak . The scale turns jet black and rubs off with your finger.
2 tablespoons to a gallon of water is fine. Parts can soak for a long time,,hours if needed. They won't come out pitted unless you forget them and go away over the weekend to the cottage and get drunk.

I leave parts in for 24hrs sometimes. They come out a grey color with the scale wiped off.  No pitting. They look like they've been treated with Nav Jelley.
Use it room temp.

Haven't lost a Colt SAA frame or a Purdey action in 50 yrs.

Offline davec2

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Re: Soldering brass
« Reply #12 on: March 12, 2022, 11:24:37 PM »
Kutter,

Great information and recommendation (including the "go away over the weekend to the cottage and get drunk" part.... :o ;)....  And I have used very dilute phosphoric or sulfuric acid in the same way to de-scale and de-rust steel parts......Thanks !!!
« Last Edit: March 12, 2022, 11:29:42 PM by davec2 »
"No man will be a sailor who has contrivance enough to get himself into a jail; for being in a ship is being in a jail, with the chance of being drowned... a man in a jail has more room, better food, and commonly better company."
Dr. Samuel Johnson, 1780

Offline hortonstn

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Re: Soldering brass
« Reply #13 on: March 13, 2022, 01:52:40 AM »
Dave thanks again 4th try fit perfect I'll never buy factory made again
This old dog learned something today