Question on stock staining

[duca]

Hi all, just received a Kibler Colonel Rifle and gonna try the IRON NITRATE and  TANNIC ACID POWDER
How are you guys doing this? Tannic first then Iron Nitrate? How many coat for each? Thanks

Anthony

[rich pierce]

Jim Kibler has videos on this. Detailed. I’m sure he’s tested them out more than anyone else.

[duca]

Thanks Rich, I did watch Jim’s videos 👍. Just wanted to hear how you guys are doing it. Seen some really nice results on here. Would really like to get some of your guys opinions on this.

Anthony

[rich pierce]

Thanks Rich, I did watch Jim’s videos 👍. Just wanted to hear how you guys are doing it. Seen some really nice results on here. Would really like to get some of your guys opinions on this.

Anthony

Personally I like the mellow look ferric nitrate can give without enhanced contrast from using tannic acid, especially on earlier guns.  In general, red maples often stain more in the brown range and sugar maple more in the reddish tones with ferric nitrate for me. But every tree reacts differently to chemical stains.

[ScottH]

I have only done one half stock. I put the tannic acid solution on first, let that dry. Then put on the Iron Nitrate, let that dry then blushed it with the heat gun. Both products were from Jim Kibler. I finished it with Chambers oil finish. It is pretty dark.

[Daryl]

Here are two rifles, both stained with ferric nitrate identically. This shows the difference in trees. Both sugar maple, seems to me.

[duca]

Wow! Really nice guys thanks for the input and keep it common I’m leaning more towards a darker stock most of the guns I’ve done in the past are a lighter brown With reddish u Which is nice but I want something a little darker this time. This is the extra fancy stock Jim offers

Anthony

[rich pierce]

I stained one curly red maple stock so dark the curl disappeared with ferric nitrate alone. Had to buff it back with 4-0 steel wool in the “wear” areas to retrieve the curl and lighter color. I advise starting light and keep applying and heating or blushing until you get the tones you want. Per Long John you can wipe with hydrogen peroxide to get a more reddish tone after ferric nitrate staining.

[Jim Filipski]

[/quote]
Personally I like the mellow look ferric nitrate can give without enhanced contrast from using tannic acid, especially on earlier guns.  In general, red maples often stain more in the brown range and sugar maple more in the reddish tones with ferric nitrate for me. But every tree reacts differently to chemical stains.
[/quote]

Rich,
 I'm with you here!
Jim

[duca]

I stayed one curly red maple stock so dark the curl disappeared with ferric nitrate alone. Had to buff it back with 4-0 steel wool in the “wear” areas to retrieve the curl and lighter color. I advise starting light and keep applying and heating or blushing until you get the tones you want. Per Long John you can wipe with hydrogen peroxide to get a more reddish tone after ferric nitrate staining.

Interesting….

[Jim Kibler]

This tannic acid thing has taken off since I built this burl-stocked fowling-piece and we began selling it:

https://www.jimkibler.net/burl-stocked-fowling-piece.html



I've got to say, builders, especially those who are relatively new, are often obsessed with wood figure.  While this is good for our business, there are many more important aspects of longrifles.  I agree with others...  On curly maple I most often prefer to use just iron nitrate.  While the tannic acid can certainly increase contrast, it's at the expense of warm color tones.  You have to fight to get these warmer colors back.

With all this said, we sell a lot of it and people seem to like the results.

[Jim Filipski]

This tannic acid thing has taken off since I built this burl-stocked fowling-piece and we began selling it:

https://www.jimkibler.net/burl-stocked-fowling-piece.html



I've got to say, builders, especially those who are relatively new, are often obsessed with wood figure.  While this is good for our business, there are many more important aspects of longrifles.  I agree with others...  On curly maple I most often prefer to use just iron nitrate.  While the tannic acid can certainly increase contrast, it's at the expense of warm color tones.  You have to fight to get these warmer colors back.

With all this said, we sell a lot of it and people seem to like the results.

Jim, I got to agree with you here! back in the early 90's I tried the tanic acid thing and it was just too much! Never liked that rifle but is sold quick!
But never again ...Just too fake for my liking!
Jim

[James Rogers]

The tannic works super for the burl guns and pistols of old.
I did use it though on a piece of hard red maple and that took some real elbow grease to get back to a satisfactory show thru for me.

[duca]

Thanks sooo much for all your input. I’ll have to think about what I want to achieve. That’s a Fine looking Gun

Anthony