Thinking about a new rasp

[Tim Ault]

As I’m starting to do more plank builds I’m thinking about getting a new rasp , for the others I’ve just used what I had an old farriers rasp . I’ve heard folks bestow the virtues of the Shinto rasp . Are there advantages with the Shinto that the flat farriers rasp won’t do ?

[Mike Brooks]

Anything with staggered teeth will work. Straight rows of teeth suck.

[Randall Steffy]

If I could have only one rasp, it would be a Dragon hand cut rasp as sold by Stewmac, luthier tools, and supplies. I have the large, fine rasp and although expensive, I would give up my other "expensive" rasps for just one of these. I wish I had bought this one first!

[JHeath]

A Shinto rasp is one of the most useful tools I have ever owned, hands-down. It shapes wood quickly and accurately, and unless you do something completely knotheaded it won’t tear the wood. I have the one without the bench-style handle. The two-sided one you can flip between course and fine. It can hog off wood to shape, can run fine edges almost like a file, and leaves a smooth sandable finish on contours. I wouldn’t be without one.

[Ken G]

I have used both and the Shinto is my go to rasp for removing lots of wood.  Aggressive on one side and finer cuts on the other. 

Cheers,
Ken

[Tim Crosby]

 I've had good luck with these from Dick Blick art supply, they are made in Italy. The remind me of the Good Old Nicholson 49 & 50.

  Tim C.

   https://www.dickblick.com/products/sculpture-house-quality-rasps/

 My 3 three, along with an old #50. I ware a cut proof glove when I use them.
     

[Eric Kettenburg]

The rasps Stew Mac sells are FANTASTIC.  However for the love of god DO NOT hit metal with them; I have had a lot of rasps over the years of various age and make, and some can 'take a hit' if you accidentally nick or clip a piece of steel/brass. The stewmac rasps are absolutely spectacular until you just barely clip some metal, then it's all over.  I think it's obvious (to me anyway) that they are not as hard as some others, but when new, holy sweet lord do they cut, and smooooooooooooth.

Stewmac runs a lot of sales and discounts so it's good to keep your eye on them until you can get them at a price drop.

[smallpatch]

Iwasaki rasps are what I have been using for the last 10 yrs or so.
VERY aggressiv, and leave a very smooth finish. They are less expensive than Dragons, and work very well.

[Tim Ault]

Iwasaki rasps are what I have been using for the last 10 yrs or so.
VERY aggressiv, and leave a very smooth finish. They are less expensive than Dragons, and work very well.

. 
  Are the Iwasaki the brand name or the type of rasp ?

[EC121]

That is the brand name. They are sharp.  I have to wear a glove on my front hand, or  I get cuts like deep paper cuts.

[sdilts]

I use the Shinto and Iwasaki rasps more than anything. The Shinto really takes off wood in a hurry. You can work it from any angle, it doesn't care which way the grain runs.

[WadePatton]

I forget the name and hate the plastic handle, but got a budget hand-stitched rasp from one of the ww supply houses. It's a fine tool to my hands-having limited rasp experience. I like the Shinto as well, but it's not very rasp-like in my opinion.

I'll edit this after I find the name of that entry-level wood rasp.

[Daryl]

I've had good luck with these from Dick Blick art supply, they are made in Italy. The remind me of the Good Old Nicholson 49 & 50.

  Tim C.

   https://www.dickblick.com/products/sculpture-house-quality-rasps/

 My 3 three, along with an old #50. I ware a cut proof glove when I use them.
     

Those 1/2 round files in the middle, look like wood hogs.  I have a file like the one on the bottom right, and it is a hog on wood.

[Bill Raby]

   I get rasps from Liogier now. Those are the hand stitched rasps. They cut better than anything else I have used. You get them custom made in the size, shape, and cut that you want. Only problem is they cost a lot and it takes a few months to get them made.

[Longshot]

Have and use most all mentioned.  Know this; the Iwasaki -while effective, are more grain and pressure sensitive than the others. Each piece of wood being worked presents a distinct learning curve. Their action being much like that of the old Surform tools.
 My 'best overall' goes to the large Dragon fine cut, which lives on my bench. Initial cost, effectiveness, ease of use and versatility are factors considered.  Try the 'coarse cut' as well and you're good to go.

[Metalshaper]

a friend and builder in Lawrence kansas, Pat Donahue, turned me onto using a Shinto Rasp. He had a rifle stock he worked with both sides of the tool.
at the time I saw his stock, he roughed and finished it, using just the shinto.. looked as good as any hand scraped stock.

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

[HighUintas]

Since everyone seems to speak positively of the Shinto rasp, does it perform that much better than a Stanley surform rasp? I have a surform and I'm working on a piece of straight grained pretty hard red maple. The surform doesnt seem to take much material off when running with the grain. A bit frustrating. I'm considering trying out a Shinto to replace the surform rasp.

The nice hand stitched rasps may be in my future.

[Bill in Md]

Old American made Nicholson cabinet rasps. The #49 for  roughing, and the #50 for final shaping.

[elkhorne]

Does anyone have a good source for the Shinto or Iwasaki rasps and the size, number or styles that you guys that have had good experience with have used. Also, have not tried one yet but Mike Miller, on his Daniel Boone video, uses a auto body file mounted on a board slightly larger. Everyone has to experiment and find what works the best for them personally.
elkhorne

[borderdogs]

I am always looking at rasps but I have been trying to use a plane (somewhat like Mark Silver does in his videos) lately for many of the general areas I have used rasps before. I have the Stanley surform, Shinto, and Iwaski rasps and the Shinto for me is the sharpest with a smooth cut results. I use round and half round Iwaski for around the lock panel, comb, and wrist. I have an old #49 and a #50 and they are good I still  use them too. The Stew Mac tools are interesting I haven't bought anything from them but I like the Dragon rasps from what I have seen and some of those Luthier planes are pretty neat.
Rob

[Tim Ault]

Does anyone have a good source for the Shinto or Iwasaki rasps and the size, number or styles that you guys that have had good experience with have used. Also, have not tried one yet but Mike Miller, on his Daniel Boone video, uses a auto body file mounted on a board slightly larger. Everyone has to experiment and find what works the best for them personally.
elkhorne

.   I saw the Shinto rasps on Amazon

[Terry Reynolds]

Does anyone have a good source for the Shinto or Iwasaki rasps and the size, number or styles that you guys that have had good experience with have used. Also, have not tried one yet but Mike Miller, on his Daniel Boone video, uses a auto body file mounted on a board slightly larger. Everyone has to experiment and find what works the best for them personally.
elkhorne

I got my Shinto at Woodcraft.

[sdilts]

I got my Shinto and Iwasakis from Woodcraft. They run them on sale every now and then.

[PAFlinter]

This Shinto rasp...what number or size/cut?  My 49 and 50 are getting tired.   

[sdilts]

Here's the one Woodcraft has.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/shinto-saw-rasp-9-shinto