I have read several comments regarding hand-rubbed wax for a stock finish. Common sense tells me it's just rubbed on and buffed off. Am I right? But does it get tacky during hot, humid weather?
I'm asking as I think ahead to finishing my Kibler SMR build.
If you want a traditional finish wax is not it.
i made up a batch of Linseed oil varnish based on Eric Kettenburg’s formula that I really like (I did not use any alcohol to dissolve the resins. Used hot but not smoking hot REAL turpentine to dissolve them. Add slowly and stir until mixed. Then added reboiled with some added Japan Drier, couple of tablespoons to the gallon, and some calcium carbonate to kill the acids in the oil. Heat in a deep fat frier till it smokes. Add this to the hot, but not smoking, turp resin mix. I used I added enough oil to thicken the mix well. Sorry I did not measure. I used store bought boiled oil. Tried raw oil from the health food store and considered it a waste of time.
After it cooled I thought it was a little too turpentine so I reheated it to drive off more volatiles.
This results in something very much like if not identical to the brown varnish used back in the day.
I used food grade Gum Benzoin and food grade rosin per Kettenburgs amounts.
Boiled linseed oil will work on its own but needs the be heat modified and is not nearly as water resistant as the varnish is.
Now if you don’t want to go to the trouble buy a quart of boiled LS oil. Buy a bottle of. Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. Mix them 50-50 (I would heat the BLO with some calcium carbonate first but its not really necessary) this will soften the tru-oil, which is to hard and dries too fast making it very in appearance and water resistant like the old varnish.
If you want better penetration cut the tru-oil mix with a little real turpentine.
The varnish I made penetrates well and it heavy bodied enough to put a decent shine on maple in 3 coats or so. Seal coat needs to set 2-3 days then followup coats usually dry overnight. I then rub it out with heat modified BLO and rottenstone. Then maybe a really thin coat of varnish. This BTW needs to be put on by hand or with a piece of lint free cloth, at least after the seal coat which I put on pretty heavy, let soak in reapply let soak then wipe off the excess. Subsequent coats need to be rubbed on and just enough to make the wood shine.
I have a friend who know beewax very well and would not use it as a stock finish. Its not. Its not really anymore water resistant the BLO both of which will turn white if wet enough.
The LSO varnish, shop made or the tru-oil mix, will also look better than the modern plastics and its a faster finish than modern “oil” stuff that is 60-90% solvent.
The other option is real shellac made from shellac flakes.
