Update, my SMR Kibler build

[Terry Cheek]

Here are pictures of my progress. Comments, critique, or suggestions are appreciated.

Thank you
Terry

[Stoner creek]

Get yourself a photographer!!

[Terry Cheek]

I know. I knew I was shaking but not that bad.

[Stoner creek]

You appear to be on track with the assembly part. Assembly is the easy part. The finish on the stock and metal is where the real work comes in on these kits. Go slow. Try not to sand out the lock and side plate panels on the wood and keep the cheek piece lines as crisp as possible. Slow and steady wins the race.

[Terry Cheek]

You appear to be on track with the assembly part. Assembly is the easy part. The finish on the stock and metal is where the real work comes in on these kits. Go slow. Try not to sand out the lock and side plate panels on the wood and keep the cheek piece lines as crisp as possible. Slow and steady wins the race.

I have no reason to speed up now, I enjoy the journey.

Thank you

[Hunterdude]

Hello Terry, I was not going to post as there are Many on the forum more qualified than I, however I am working on the same kit and sometimes it's helpful to have a comparison photo. I think your rifle IS improved, but it looks to me like your butt plate could still move forward a bit.
    I am enclosing a photo of my butt plate, you may note my casting gates are Still on my butt plate and no metal finish work yet....I am Only focus on wood to metal fit at this time All the way around the perimeter, I will likely candle soot this butt plate one more time for a tight wood/metal fit and then work on flushing the sides all the way around so that neither the metal or the wood is proud.
   When I am satisfied, I can remove the butt plate and I could actually remove the casting gates and do my polishing while I am waiting for my slow drying oil wood finish to dry(if I so choose)
   Likely I am not doing it like the Pro's so someone will chime in and correct me!
   What I wanted you to get from my post is in the upper left hand corner where the curve of the butt plate has an inside corner that transitions to the flat along the top is where you could see some more gains in fitment of your rifle if you wanted to make it closer to perfect. Hope the post was helpful. Enjoy your build!

    There is a small radius on the inside corner of the metal butt plate....if you do make your butt plate move forward to close that gap? You will need to dress a small matching radius on your wood as the stock is point shaped in that corner now. Go slow and sneak up on it! it's not hard at all.

[Terry Cheek]

Thank you, I'm glad you posted. Also thanks for the comparison photo.

Terry

[Terry Cheek]

Hello Terry, I was not going to post as there are Many on the forum more qualified than I, however I am working on the same kit and sometimes it's helpful to have a comparison photo. I think your rifle IS improved, but it looks to me like your butt plate could still move forward a bit.
    I am enclosing a photo of my butt plate, you may note my casting gates are Still on my butt plate and no metal finish work yet....I am Only focus on wood to metal fit at this time All the way around the perimeter, I will likely candle soot this butt plate one more time for a tight wood/metal fit and then work on flushing the sides all the way around so that neither the metal or the wood is proud.
   When I am satisfied, I can remove the butt plate and I could actually remove the casting gates and do my polishing while I am waiting for my slow drying oil wood finish to dry(if I so choose)
   Likely I am not doing it like the Pro's so someone will chime in and correct me!
   What I wanted you to get from my post is in the upper left hand corner where the curve of the butt plate has an inside corner that transitions to the flat along the top is where you could see some more gains in fitment of your rifle if you wanted to make it closer to perfect. Hope the post was helpful. Enjoy your build!

    There is a small radius on the inside corner of the metal butt plate....if you do make your butt plate move forward to close that gap? You will need to dress a small matching radius on your wood as the stock is point shaped in that corner now. Go slow and sneak up on it! it's not hard at all.

Hunterdude, your experience and skill are impressive. As I have said several times, this is my first flintlock build. The Kibler SMR is precision work and I feared from the start with my lack of experience and skills I would only mess it up. Thank you for the encouragement and advice. I am moving very slowly for many reasons.

[Terry Cheek]

After being pulled away by several things I have attempted to clean up the butt plate fit. Constructive comments and criticism is appreciated.

[HighUintas]

I haven't done a buttplate yet, but I think it looks really good! I might try to peen that corner in a tad, but it may not be noticeable at all after staining.

[Terry Cheek]

I haven't done a buttplate yet, but I think it looks really good! I might try to peen that corner in a tad, but it may not be noticeable at all after staining.

Thank you, I will try to peen the corner.