Flintlock with question

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Lampro:
I have caplocks and now this is my first flintlock. I'm not sure who made it or when it was made. It has a Bill Large .50 caliber barrel with what looks like about 1:48 twist. I was told it's basically a Colonial style.

Now my question. Is the cock supposed to be able to hit the frizzen? On this gun the jaws of the cock, even with the flint removed, are able to hit the frizzen hard enough to open it. I don't know but I would have thought only the flint should strike the frizzen.

D. Taylor Sapergia:
I don't think I've ever seen a flintlock whose cock jaws could not strike the frizzen without a flint installed. BUT NEVER FIRE A LOCK WITHOUT A FLINT!!!! What your rifle has is an L & R Durs Egg flintlock (or less likely, a John Clark lock). L & R's Durs Egg locks consistently have powerful mainsprings, and are great sparkers.
With your frizzen closed and the lock at half cock, your flint should protrude from the cock jaws to within no more than 1/18" distance from the frizzen. If the flint touches the frizzen it will likely interfere with the frizzen closing over the pan. But too short, and there is a likelyhood that the top jaw screw may collide as it falls with the tip of the frizzen , which too is bad.

Mike Brooks:
Have you tried closing the frizzen?

hanshi:
Yeah...What they said!

Eric Krewson:
Judging by the ding on the lock plate behind the cock and my past experience with an L&R lock I would say your cock stop isn't hitting the lock plate and is letting the cock travel too far forward.

I bought an L&R RPL flintlock for a TC, the tumbler wasn't milled right and the cock sat way too far off from the lock plate and the stop just hit the corner of the lock plate. If I had shot the gun more than just a few times the cock stop would have worn a place out where it could completely miss the lock plate.

I sent the lock back to L&R, they sent it back much worse than when I sent it in so I fixed it myself,

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