If you don't want to bend the plate and then add wood in the inlet and then re-inlet the new/bent plate,,,and wonder if bending the plate will screw up the mechanics of the DST...
Another way is to leave the inlet just like it is.
Leave the trigger plate and DSt just the way they are.
The trigger plate is nice and flat.
Take a piece of plain CRS or 12L14 that is the width of the plate,,or file /mill it do the width.
File one edge flat to match the trigger plate so it extends from the point where the orig trigger plate startes to dissapear below the inlet then right to the end of the trigger plate.
Place the DST into the stock.
Place this piece of metal down onto the trigger plate so it sits onto it squarely.
Now scribe a line on that metal all around at the orig wood line.
Take the metal piece and hacksaw what will be a wedge shape piece out of it,,cutting outside of the scribe mark to give you some extra metal for final fit.
Now that piece is just soft soldered,,sweat soldered to the trigger plate in the correct position.
You can additionaly use a couple small screws to hold it coming in from the inside of the DST plate. But a solid well
fitted sweat solder joint is really all you need.
Use lead/tin solder as any thin line of solder that shows will turn to a dark grey color
The new(er) Tin/Silver soft solder are forever white.
The trigger guard curl at the back of the bow will cover the joint where the two pieces join if you plan it right anyway.
Trim and shape the excess metal on the new filler block to the wood. It'll look just like the trigger plate when done.
Yes it'll add an oz or 2 to the over all weight of the rifle,,big deal. So do a handfull of extra lead balls in a patch box.
A screw used to hold the rear of the trigger plate in place in the inlet will just be a bit longer than usual and have to go though the new wedge shape filler and the orig trigger plate.
