Author Topic: Triger Guard Inlet  (Read 3641 times)

Red Owl

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Triger Guard Inlet
« on: October 28, 2009, 05:05:09 PM »
On the kits I have so far built the trigger guards were screwed in.  Now I have a trigger guard I want to pin.  Is there any particulars about this job I have to pay heed to? 
   BTW- just did my first pinned trigger.  On the prior kits the trigger was pinned to ears on the trigger plate. By pinning into the stock the mechanical leverage was vastly increased and made a real difference in lightening the trigger pull- big improvement.  ;D

Offline Roger Fisher

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Re: Triger Guard Inlet
« Reply #1 on: October 28, 2009, 05:42:15 PM »
I for one do not like to see those @!*% holes in the finished piece.  Re: the front pin I do thisaway:  I go in thru the lock mortise using a pin with a head on it that I can grip with a needle nose for removal.  The rear pin (when I use one in lieu of the screw) is hidden by coloured paneling wax to match the stock finish,. and so are the other pins on up the stock. :)

Just my way - Barbara always said I was 'different' :o ;D

keweenaw

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Re: Triger Guard Inlet
« Reply #2 on: October 28, 2009, 06:10:26 PM »
You can usually get the pin for the front lug up under the sideplate.  The thing to look closely at before you start is whether the lugs are in the center of the guard casting. Often they are a bit off to one side so you'll want to start the slots for them offset appropriately.

Tom

Offline Acer Saccharum

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Re: Triger Guard Inlet
« Reply #3 on: October 28, 2009, 07:02:29 PM »
If your front lug is too short, silver solder and extension on it. The you can easily get the pin under the sideplate thru to the lock mortice.

Tom
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Offline Long John

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Re: Triger Guard Inlet
« Reply #4 on: October 28, 2009, 09:03:18 PM »
Tom,

You can also file your extension like a mortice and tennon joint and then use tin/silver low temp solder.

Best Regards,

JMC

Red Owl

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Re: Triger Guard Inlet
« Reply #5 on: October 29, 2009, 12:39:17 AM »
Well I am awaiting the goods from TOW and I just assumed the tabs would be long enough to put the front pin inside the lock plate. Thanks for the forewarning. I made the trigger- thanks to the tips some of you gave and I was going to do the trigger plate but then thought it might be better to first inlet the trigger guard so I know exactly where I am and then do the trigger plate such that the front of the plate nests under the trigger guard.
   I am planning to put in some cast off- not much, only about 1/8".  Should I start from the back of the trigger guard or from the trigger- in other words should the trigger guard be in line with the barrel or in line with the bottom of the butt stock? Or, is the amount of angle so small as to not be an issue?

Offline Randy Hedden

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Re: Triger Guard Inlet
« Reply #6 on: October 29, 2009, 01:38:49 AM »
The cast off should start right at the back of the lock and sideplate panels.  After you finish the shape of the butt stock with the cast off, you can bend the trigger guard slightly so the rear extension of the trigger guard sets in the center of the bottom of the buttstock.  Even with just a light amount of cast off I bend the trigger guard to conform.

Randy Hedden 
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Red Owl

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Re: Triger Guard Inlet
« Reply #7 on: October 29, 2009, 05:58:02 AM »
Thanks- I hadn't thought of doing it that way.

Offline Don Getz

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Re: Triger Guard Inlet
« Reply #8 on: October 29, 2009, 03:19:01 PM »
Red Owl........I like to make a rather short trigger plate, about 1/2" long in front of the trigger, and usually round the end.
This is plenty of room for the tang bolt to screw into.   Also, by doing it this way you can avoid it when inletting your trigger guard.   You will find it  much easier than trying to make one fit to the other.............Don

Red Owl

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Re: Triger Guard Inlet
« Reply #9 on: October 30, 2009, 05:31:15 AM »
That's a good idea. Thanks. May save myself a lot of work.