Fitting a FLY ??

[Bigmon]

OK, After several weeks of messing with Dixie over which FLY I needed for their lock, and finally deciding that they do not have one to fit.  Then tearing apart several of my own locks to determine that a fly from a Chambers Colonial was large enough to make fit, I is ready.
Is there a tutorial, or anything ya might know of that could give me some guidance?  I have never done this before???
Thanks in advance.

[smart dog]

Here is a link to a thread that may help.

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=13207.msg124092#msg124092

dave

[Darkhorse]

Its not difficult. All I needed was a set of swiss Files, some patience, and some time. I used the Gunsmith of Grenville count as my reference.

[Bob Roller]

My experience is from that of a lockMAKER as opposed to an assembler.The mechanism behind the plate IS the lock and I have met those who can't tell the difference between a custom made lock and a very cheap one with no bridle to capture the tumbler.
I made and finished the tumbler and the sear and THEN,using a dye laid out an inverted "V" with the apex PAST the center line of the 2 tumbler shafts and then milled it to a depth of about .075 and the drilled a hole at the top of the "V" with a #44 drill.The milled area extended a short distance beyond the full cock and forward of the half cock by about 3/32.I made the fly from 0-1 and fitted it in the #44 hole by using a miniature hollow mill and it fit well.With the "fly" as far to the rear as possible the fly is filed to the contour of the half cocked position and the moved forward and the rear edge is filed until it passes the half cock and then assembling the lock I test to and usually only
only a minor adjustment is made if needed.The "V" shaped cut is done on a heavy old Delta/Rockwell drill press running at top speed and the cut was made with a 3/32 three flute stub end mill.this is NOT anything complicated.After full function is achieved the fly is hardened,polished and drawn to a straw color and ramp that intercepts the sear is polished mirror bright.

Bob Roller

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

That's a great treatise on making and installing a fly Bob.

Years ago, I owned a Plainsman rifle distributed by Replica Arms in the 60"s.  The rifle had a lock without a fly and a single stage set trigger (trigger had to be set to fire the lock).  It had the annoying feature of often stopping in the half cock notch, and so needed a fly or detent.
I annealed the tumbler and cut the recess for the fly with a die sinker's chisel and a hammer, and drilled the hole for the tit as Bob Roller has described.
The result was perfect and now the lock and triggers worked well together without any more half cock issues.  Here's a couple of pics of that lock...

[runastav]

Hi all! I just made a missing fly from a 6mm UBRAKO screw, nice ready hardening/anneled
Runar

[Bob Roller]

That's a great treatise on making and installing a fly Bob.

Years ago, I owned a Plainsman rifle distributed by Replica Arms in the 60"s.  The rifle had a lock without a fly and a single stage set trigger (trigger had to be set to fire the lock).  It had the annoying feature of often stopping in the half cock notch, and so needed a fly or detent.
I annealed the tumbler and cut the recess for the fly with a die sinker's chisel and a hammer, and drilled the hole for the tit as Bob Roller has described.
The result was perfect and now the lock and triggers worked well together without any more half cock issues.  Here's a couple of pics of that lock...
Taylor,
Thank you for comment on my fly making and installation methods. On the lock you show,I am surprised to see the bridle on 3 posts and it shows that whoever made that lock wanted a rigid mechanism.I used this style of bridle on Schuetzen locks for a German maker and he called it Der kreutzstudel.I couldn't begin this job with any kind of a chisel and am not sure if I have a chisel to use on metal in my assortment of tools.
Bob Roller