Hi,
We had a good day making the ramrod groove and drilling the ramrod hole. The Rice Dolep barrel has a very steep taper over the first 2 inches from the breech. Very steep. Based on our plans, we wanted the web of wood between the barrel channel and ramrod to be about 1/8" under the barrel at the breech and 3/16" under the barrel at the muzzle. That means the ramrod is not parallel with the bore but closer to parallel with the bottom of the barrel. This provides for a very slim gun, particularly for the fore stock but also good clearance for the forward lock bolt. This is in keeping with the original English fowlers that I own. So we marked a straight line on the sides of the stock that was 1/8" below the barrel at the breech and 3/16" below at the muzzle. The ramrod groove and hole would be parallel to that line. To achieve that, Maria had to plane the bottom of the stock blank to a line that was exactly parallel with our line for the bottom of the barrel. That surface then sat down on my router table and guided the depth of the routed groove in the stock blank. The ramrod groove and hole is to be 5/16" wide but my round 5/16" bit is a mess so we used a flat bottomed 5/16" bit and then a gouge to round the bottom of the groove.
Maria smoothed the groove with a 5/16" rasp with a bent handle and coarse sandpaper wrapped around a round form.
The result was a nice clean groove. Then we used a 5/16" ramrod drill to make the hole.
We started the hole but realized quickly we needed a course correction. The groove cut by gouges at the beginning of the step by the rear ramrod pipe had a bump pushing the drill down. We discovered this quickly and because that section of the hole would be replaced by the rear ramrod pipe, we simply cut it away, adjusted the groove at entry and started again. This illustrates measures that I routinely make to prevent problems. I start my ramrod holes where the front of the rear pipe will be. I then drill in 1/2" at a time until I am sure everything is lined up correctly. That gives me 2 increments of drilling that can be cut away and realigned if needed because they will be replaced by the rear pipe and provides a check that all is going to plan. After we realigned the groove, we started the hole again and it was on track. I had Maria start the hole using the drill and hand powered brace-and-bit.
That was to allow a slow start but also to give her experience with period tools. Then once the hole was well established, I had her power the drill with an electric drill so she learned how to use that tool for this purpose.
All this time we were assisted by my other helper.
In the end, the hole was drilled successfully but it ended up about 1/32"-1/16" lower in the stock at the breech than we planned likely because the figured walnut had some really tough parts to drill through, deflecting the drill downward. It was a great experience for Maria and the end result was just great.
Next up is trimming the stock and inletting the lock.
dave