Author Topic: Modeling on moldings  (Read 872 times)

Offline Clear Spring Armory

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Modeling on moldings
« on: November 27, 2022, 04:58:21 AM »
This is my first time carving on a gun. I have seen carving tutorials that explain the process of "modeling" well, and in the case of the scrolls and other figures commonly found its very evident what needs to be done. But I've never seen specifically what is to be done with moldings...as far as modeling. Some pictures I've seen look like it's been done in certain places, beavertails, tang molding, etc. I realize some areas, like around the bottom of the lock and down the butt should just be squared, or seems that way.

I dont like how mine looks, something seems not right. So I figured maybe that's what I'm missing, as I didnt model anything. It could be I'm not deep enough? Also, would modeling help hide some of the depth inconsistencies that are standing out to me? Or at least breaking that hard egde






Offline Mike Lyons

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Re: Modeling on moldings
« Reply #1 on: November 27, 2022, 05:20:26 AM »
I think your carving looks fine and I wouldn’t go any deeper.  Your lines are crisp.  Buy a couple good reference books,  KRA discs and study original work.  There’s more experience on here than anywhere online.  When the top dogs talk,  pay close attention to what they say.  I’m not a even close to being an expert but,  In my opinion your beaver tails are a little long and the area in front of the trigger guard and your lower lock panels could be rounded a bit more.

Offline rich pierce

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Re: Modeling on moldings
« Reply #2 on: November 27, 2022, 05:44:26 AM »
Could we see the sideplate lock panel from straight on?  It appears from this view that there’s quite a bit of wood above the sideplate top screw. Is this build based on particular originals or your own design?
Andover, Vermont

Offline J. Talbert

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Re: Modeling on moldings
« Reply #3 on: November 27, 2022, 09:23:01 PM »
 Your carving itself appears very well done.  I think there two design factors detracting from the overall appearance of the carving.  First, like Rich suggests, I think the overall lock area in general has too much wood remaining giving it a “boxy” look.
Secondly your carving design seems to just “parallel “ the outline of the lock panels lacking a little flair in a couple of spots, and may have a little too much flair when it comes to the elongated teardrop shaped beaver tails.
I’ve made a few marks on the accompanying photo to show the areas that I think could’ve been shaped differently, but my limited editing skills only allow for a crude representation rather than a true redesign.


Keep at it, you’re doing much better than many.
Jeff

There are no solutions.  There are only trade-offs.”
Thomas Sowell

Offline Jim Kibler

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Re: Modeling on moldings
« Reply #4 on: November 27, 2022, 10:27:04 PM »
Your execution is very good, but your designs have some room for improvement.  I would suggest spending time studying original work.  This is vital to the best success, but something many find difficulty in doing.

You obviously have very good ability and with a little more study I'm sure you'll be able to do some pretty fantastic work!

Jim

Offline RAT

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Re: Modeling on moldings
« Reply #5 on: November 28, 2022, 01:36:01 AM »
Jeff is spot on with his example. I also think the narrowest part of the beaver tail is too narrow. I think your lower butt molding would look better if it terminated farther forward. It looks like it terminates where the rear trigger guard is pinned to the stock. I'd terminate it a little forward of where the rear of the guard bow touches the stock.
Bob