Rust bluing boiling tank

[smallpatch]

I know this has been covered before, but , here we go again.

I’ve priced tanks a Brownells, and really don’t want to spend the money ($120 to $300)for one small job. I have one barrel, with underribs and pipes, and buttplate, trigger guard and lock.
Any input would be appreciated.

[Joey R]

I made one out of a piece of 4 inch gutter for a small job as yours. It’s economical and effective. Good luck.

[bowkill]

I have always used a piece of 4 inch PVC pipe.  Glue on end caps and cut a 3rd of the pipe top off. Make it look like a letter C if that makes sense..

[snapper]

I use a down spout and cut an opening on the top.   Attached two elbows to it with screws and epoxy on the ends.

The down spout is a little more stable than the gutter.

Fleener

[sz]

I welded up my own.
I took two 3" X 51" long pieces of 1/16" strap steel and on piece of the same cut to 57"
I bent up 3" tall ends on the longer piece and then set the sides on it's edge and welded them on, first tacking one side and then the other  Once made into a tank I simply welded the seams shut. 
So the ends and the both side3s are made from a single piece, and each side made from 1 piece each.
Easy and pretty cheap to make.
  Been using it for 40 years now. Long enough to rust blue the longest barrels (so far) including the breach plugs.  You can make them any length you like this way.  Or made a few  tanks in different lengths.

[Daryl]

Sounds kind of like Taylor's Steve.

[P.W.Berkuta]

I also use a section of steel gutter with end caps - works fine.

[rich pierce]

I use a galvanized end post for a chain link fence. They have tight fitting caps. I do it vertical. Pour boiling water in then heat with a torch for a while. It doesn’t take long.

[smallpatch]

I was told it have to be mild steel, not galvanized.  Is galvanized ok?

[rich pierce]

I was told it have to be mild steel, not galvanized.  Is galvanized ok?

Galvanized has worked for me.

[kutter]

Most any thin steel or aluminum  'tank' works. Gutter mat'l is always one to use.
Careful when it's full of water that it doesn't 'flex' and spill water and parts all over Mom's kitchen stove and floor if that's where the heat source is planned.

For many years I used a long fiberglass flower box with a waterheater coil set into each end with fiberglas material/stock bedding compound.
I wired them in series (I think!) and plugged them straight into the 110v in the garage and the water was rolling boil in about 5 min.
The whole set-up was set in a plywood coffin of sorts with the top open and sittin in a cut out. Some insulation inside the box to keep the heat in and keep me away from the wires!
A simple plywood cover with plastic stapled around it. I used that set up for around 10yrs to do RB on probably 200 sets of SxS and single bbl guns. Some very expensive ones at that.

Then I graduated to NatGas in the new place and a stainless tank.
Same results though.

Now many seem to be using a 'steam tower'. and from all accounts they work very well.
The advantages are very small amt of water to be used,,a couple qts at most , usually 1 qt will do it for a cycle.
Heats up and boils quickly.
The heat source can be a simple hot plate or single burner as the water is placed in a small container like a steam cooker or other 'pot' with cover.
The 'Tower' is a piece of PVC pipe on top of the cooker secured so it doesn't tip over of course.
The steam from the cooker/pot rushes into the Tower where the bbl and/or parts are placed.

The top of the tower is open and accessable to place and remove the parts. A loose fitting cover is placed over it when the steaming is in operation.

Takes about the same 10 to 20 min time as a boiling cycle in a tank.

Remove part(s),,turn off the heat and let everything cool off.
The 'Tower' can remain assembled but placed aside till the next cycle is needed.

Card the parts when cool, recoat and rust, etc.


Here's a pic of a one set up.
The operator states:
"You hang the parts from a rod which you put through the pic pipe at the top; I put a piece of foil on the top to keep the steam in but you do not want to seal it off; you want hot steam to pass up through the pipe at all times. I steam for ten minutes. I used the pressure cooker because of the locking lid;

***there are 5 big holes drilled in the lid to let the steam up; no pressure involved.***

I see I used a saucer on this one; I don't do that now for fear it might fall off. Total cost; $12;"
He says the pressure cooker came from his wife who no longer used it!


If you google 'Steam rust bluing' or something like that you can find some other info on it but that's about the story on it.

Doing LR bbl's you likely will need a heat source that will sit on the floor due to the length of the bbl(s) and the PVC tube. You need some overhead clearance to get the parts in and back out of the thing.
Might be a garage project..

[Daryl]

Taylor's 'tank' is welded sheet steel. The heat source is a square "tube" with holes in it to let the gas come up. 
He would likely explain is in more precise terms.

[sdilts]

I do the same as Rich does. It works great and is economical to boot.

[davec2]

I just browned the barrel, put it in a piece of 2 inch PVC pipe and then boiled water in a pot on the stove and poured in in the pipe.  By the time the water was cool, the barrel was a beautiful blue.  No boiling of the barrel at all.  Learned how to do that from someone here on ALR.....

[flinchrocket]

Heating galvanized steel with a torch is not a good idea. The fumes are poisonous.

[Roger B]

PVC pipe & poured in boiling water. Works like a charm.
Roger B.

[Scota4570]

I had an HVAC shop bend up a tank based on my cardboard model.  I took it home and soldered the seams.  It is made of galvanized sheet stock that they use for everything. 

I have been experimenting with the steaming method. 

[Daryl]

I fully understand the process and reason for including the video, but oh well.

[P.W.Berkuta]

I was told it have to be mild steel, not galvanized.  Is galvanized ok?

That's for hot blue work.

[P.W.Berkuta]

Heating galvanized steel with a torch is not a good idea. The fumes are poisonous.

Heating it is fine just when it is being welded or brazed at very high temps that there is caution to be used - use a fan or open lots of windows for fresh air.

[HighUintas]

Now that I know it's as easy as pouring boiling water into a PVC pipe and letting it sit... Rust blueing sounds much more enticing

[Daryl]

Not sure what you are getting at, HighUintas, but the barrel has to be rusted/browned first, then the boiling water or steam turns the oxide to blue.
The higher/finer the finish on the barrel before browning, then carding between rust coats, the  better the end result, imho.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

My set up is perhaps overkill, but it works so nicely, I don't regret the expense or the setting up and taking down before and after each job.  I had a fabricating shop make my tank from stainless steel sheet.  He formed square ridges along the top so that the tank doesn't twist...there's a lot of weight when it is loaded with water and the barrel, breech, sights, etc.  I also had him make an aluminum cap and side panels of 1/16" steel steel to keep the heat concentrated on the tank.  Here's an important tip:  use distilled water!  I read this in Angier's book on Bluing and Browning, and found out the hard way why it's so important.  I got the idea for the heating element, ie:  a length of square tubing with holes drilled over its length to distribute the propane flame the whole length of the tank, from my friend Barry.  It works a treat, and sustains a boiling tank for as long as is required, which is usually around 20 minutes.

[Waksupi]

If you use PVC or stove pipe, you can't just dump boiling water over it. The steam needs to be consistent for 20 minutes for the chemical process to end. Steam is hotter than boiling water.
I found that even with the heavy gauge PVC, after around ten barrels, they begin to slump, which can result in everything tipping over. I went to using stove pipe. I do let it steam a bit longer, as the stove pipe loses heat faster than PVC.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Waksupi makes a good point...don't confuse water vapour with steam.