sealer or finish on loading blocks?

[taterbug]

Not sure where to put this topic.  I did a couple of searches but my Boolean-fu seems to be lacking these days.

I'm making up a couple of loading blocks, first ones in plain ol pine as test mules for size and shape. 

Have some oak and maple for later versions, but this got me to thinking about sealing the wood. 

Since the patches will already be lubed, should I put some sealer or finish on the loading blocks before use?  Not sure if it will even make a difference, other than preventing some coloration around the holes.

 Will it prevent the lube from getting leached into the wood? 

Thanks for any info on what you've done in the past.

[Jeff Murray]

You can use most any sealer on the wood.  Suggest that you lube the inside of the holes with whatever lube you use so the wood won't leach it out of your patches.  Its fun to make them pretty but if you use them they will get beat up anyway.

[Daryl]

I just used True Oil on mine. 2 coats iirc. Yes- must lube the insides of the holes to prevent dry patches.
Little one for the .36, made it back in about 78 or 79, for bunny hunting. The big one is for the .69, made
 in 86/7.
I made one in about 2006, out of UHMW (cutting board HDPE) that did not require finish or hole lubing.
Can't find it but that's on, don't have a .45 any more.

[Fyrstyk]

I usually stain the block and put a coat or two of BLO.  After it dries I put on a coat of Butchers wax.

[davec2]

OK....so I may be a little OCD (actually, if you are truly OCD, it should be CDO so that it's in alphabetical order  )  Anyway, small things I make out of any type of wood, like powder horn butt plugs and stoppers, loading blocks, knife handles, etc.) I usually finish in an unusual way.  I put the part in a stainless steel bowl and cover it with Watco Oil.  Then I cover the bowl with a clear plexiglass lid that has a silicone gasket and is set up with a vacuum gage and a small brass valve.  I draw a vacuum on the bowl with a vacuum pump.  The oil immediately foams around the wooden part as the air trapped in the cellular structure of the wood finds its way out.  As soon as the foaming stops or slows way down, I break the vacuum and the oil is driven deep into the wood as the air has been displaced and atmospheric pressure forces the oil into the wood.  I then take the part out and wipe it down and put it in the sun to polymerize.  It almost plasticizes the wood.

I did this to an entire gunstock at one point with polymerized tung oil by vacuum bagging the entire stock like you do to cure composite structures.  It worked great....but I decided it was really overkill.

[Dennis Daigger]

Dave,
From someone that is a lot OCD I used our Italian vacuum packer for this Bois d’Arc plug. Inspired by your post.



Dennis

[taterbug]

Hmm... very interesting.  I do like that idea.  I have a couple horn plugs that need some kinda sealer too.
Another justification for buying a vacuum food sealer?  Just wont it take out to the shop til SWMBO is gone for the day.

although the dedicated stainless bowl and lid may make for smoother sailing.  And a bit cheaper than being forced to buy two vacuum sealers!