It's not a blow out,,it's not a nightmare.
It's a tiny chip thats still hanging on.
Big Deal.
Pull is open a bit and stuff some TiteBond or whatever white wood glue in behind it and press it back into place like Dphariss and others have said.
It should sit right back down where it came from.
Hold it in place for the lenght of a couple tunes on the radio , I often push it gently into place with pressure from the erasure tip of a pencil.
Rub the erasure into your ear for a bit to wax up the tip so any glue won't stick to it and the wood finish.
...But there shouldn't be any on the surface anyway.
The glue will tack and stick into place in the 3 to 4 minutes you hold it in position. Then let it set for the day.
If you want to clamp it,,a simple rubber band doubled and tied around the wrist w/a toothpick layed onto the chip so the band puts some pressure onto it directly.
Don't stick the toothpick into your ear to wax it up though,,nothing larger than your elbow or a pencil erasure for now.
A swipe of bar soap will do it onto the toothpick to keep it clear of sticking to anything and also the erasure for that matter.
That keeps things out of your ears that don't belong there just like your mother told you.
While it's drying,,take the lock plate and file or grind a slight draft on the plate on the rounded area there.
When it seats, you don't want it to squash itself into place against the stock wood again. That'll only result in the same damage.
Only the very top edge of the plate needs to contact the wood. The Draft need only be a few degree angle.
I've used SuperGlue quite a bit for wood repairs. Some chips but mostly hair line cracks.
It's thin and draws down into the cracks nicely. It goes especially well if you can work the wood even slightly so the glue seeps deeper into the crack. That way it often travels the crack even further than it was visible to you.
It does set up quickly so get it clamped.
I then run a second line of SG over the outside line of the crack and while wet, take a rather coarse grit garnet paper (180,,220) and quicky sand the susperglue right into the wood in the crack. Even if the crack appears tightly joined.
If you do this fast enough, the wood dust you kick up with the sanding will accumulate with the wet SG and further fill the crack.
It will solidify almost instantly from the heat of the sanding. It will leave a slight 'filled' surface right along that crack that is superglue/wood dust.
Remove that with block sanding back down to your orig wood surface so any finishing comes out an even color again. The crack will be a solid repair and usually invisible if you use a Garnet sandpaper.
Don't use any of the Black wet-or dry paper or other 'color' sand papers. You can guess what the results will look like.
This a a nasty multiple break & splinter: Old repair(s) done with a couple different glues plus small screws and nails.
I soaked the front half of the stock in laquer thinner for 4 or 5 days to undo the old glue repairs and strip the old finish that had been added,
All fixed up with a combination of TiteBond, Superglue and JB Weld:
Then the refinish. The missing wood portions (grey fiberglass) done with artists colors to faux grain to match the orig. Checkering right thru some of those areas demands that they too be touched up to mimic wood grain and color.
