Chambers finish.

[varsity07840]

I always used Tru Oil before my current project. Should I thin the Chambers finish for the first sealer coat?

Thanks in advance.

[davebozell]

I’m not an expert, but I always use it straight out of the bottle.  I’ve never been disappointed.

[sdilts]

I've never thinned it. Never saw a need to.

[RAT]

For my first coat(s) I thin it 50/50 with real turpentine. The wood really soaks it up. I say "coat(s)" because of how it's applied. I start at the muzzle end and work towards the butt. I apply a generous amount using a paintbrush. By the time I've reached the butt, the finish at the muzzle end has soaked in. So I immediately apply another coat... then another... and another... in quick succession until the finish is no longer soaking in and pools on the surface. I usually apply around 4 coats at this point. I then use a scrap of cotton T-shirt to wipe off the excess. I let this dry for a couple of days.

Then I rub it back with 0000 steel wool and apply the next coat, full strength/thickness, in small amounts with a cotton scrap and rub it in hard. I let it dry, which usually only takes a day. I then repeat applying the finish full strength until I get what I'm looking for.

[satwel]

You will get the best results by following the directions on the can. There is no mention of diluting the oil in the directions.

[ScottH]

Jim Chambers himself told me that if I wanted to thin the first coat of finish to use "real mineral spirits" not the new green version of mineral spirits. FWIW

[RAT]

The instructions state...

'Do NOT thin, mix, clean brushes or applicator tools or wipe wood surfaces with products labeled as: "Low-VOC Mineral Spirits", "Green Mineral Spirits", "Low-VOC Multi-purpose Solvents", or "Low-Odor Mineral Spirits". These types of solvents are not compatible with the Chambers Traditional Oil Finish.'

'Many of these solvents/cleaners contain up to 50% water and surfactants and/or they are blends of VOC-compliant solvents and acetone. Acetone is not a suitable solvent with our product and any products with water in them will raise the grain of bare wood.'

'ONLY USE products labeled "100% aliphatic hydrocarbon solvent" or "100% petroleum distillates".'

So... there is reference to thinning the finish in the directions. You just have to be careful what you thin it with. As I recall, a few years ago Barbie addressed this directly in a previous post to this forum.

[Bigmon]

I always used truoil, and maybe even polyurethane a time or two.
Used Permaline (or what ever it's called) once.  All worked fine and held up.
But the last two I used Chambers oil and that is what I will use from now on.  I like using it and how it looks when finished.
I must say that before I used it I asked Jim Chambers about durability, as my guns get used hard.  He told me that is is very durable and will hold up.
So far so good, and it is easy to use.  And really looks great.  At least in my opinion.

[varsity07840]

I went with it full strength per the bottle instructions. I'm very pleased with the first coat. It penetrates much better than Try Oil and the color is right there. I'm a convert.

[Bigmon]

I remember just soaking it on full strength with the first coat or two.  Letting it soak on for awhile and put on more and more.  Then after several soakings I used a lint free clean dry cloth and wiped the excess off.
After that dried kept adding more coats each one lighter and thinner.
That's how I remember Jim telling me, I think.  I am not so sure with everything as I used to be.
I am happy with it

[smallpatch]

Been using it for The last 20 years. Probably the easiest, most forgiving finish available.

Flood it on, wipe it off. The only variation, if I’m antiquing a piece, I will add 2 coats so spar varnish, then shading, 2 more coats of  spar, then the last 2 coats of Chamners.
All later coats of Chambers are applied with a scotchbrite pad. Eliminating the need to sand between coats.
Easy, peasy.

[Dennis Glazener]

Agree, love the stuff.
Dennis

[Dphariss]

Aged Turpentine, allowed to set in an shallow dish for a few days, will absorb oxygen from the air. When mixed with a finish (don’t use more than one part in 5 parts finish) it will carry the oxygen into the wood with the thinned finish and aid in drying the finish that soaks in. This from Mad Monk. Who did a lot of research and work on traditional finishes.

[mjohnson]

Like most solvents it probably absorbs a lot of water as well. In fact that is probably the vehicle for the oxygen. H2O.

[Dphariss]

And if it has mineral spirits in I don’t even buy the stuff. I don’t know what the deal is with using this $#@* in a stock finish, and yes I have don’t quite a few stocks with such things back in the 1980s Was doing 2 a week at C Sharps for a time.  If I need a thinner I use real turpentine for one thing it actually has some resins in it. Mineral spirits is used to dry a finish by evaporation not the way traditional linseed oil varnishes dry.  Its used in modern “varnishes” to make them more idiot proof. And “faster”. I dunno about Turp but I know mineral spirits can cause brain damage with the fumes are inhaled. Its why some unfortunates “huff” spray paint to get high.

[Dphariss]

This said a friend with considerable experience really like Chambers Oil.
And I would trust him. But I make a varnish I like.