Questions on a blank build

[Wingshot]

So I’m at a point now with my SMR build where the swamped barrel, breech and tang are inletted. I’ve no drilled the ramrod hole yet and I’m asking, should I trim the sides of the barrel from the blank which is still at full width (2-3/4”? Maybe) down to within say 3/16 of finished surface? Should I then install the lugs and pin the barrel before moving on to the ramrod hole and lock? Appreciate any tips.

[davebozell]

Drill your ramrod hole while you have plenty of wood to support your drill.  It’s easy to thin the wood after it is drilled.  I drill ramrod holes as soon as the barrel is inletted.

[parve]

I have only drilled one ramrod hole so take this advice as you may, but I would wait to trim the sides of the stock. It's good to have plenty of surface area for the wooden bearing blocks used to keep the ramrod drill in its channel. I put the barrel in its channel while drilling, I figured it could help prevent the thin upper forearm from flexing while I was turning my hand brace.

[Wingshot]

Leaving the wood makes sense especially now that I’m visualizing the bearing blocks. Thanks!

[Daniel Coats]

Wingshot you can actually do it in about any sequence. I've even drilled the ramrod hole before inletting the barrel and it worked fine. Take a look at your layout available tools workspace and plan a path forward.

Be as precise as possible on the ramrod groove because drill bits go in the direction they're pointed!

[Wingshot]

High value advice given here, no question. While I have your ears, I’m using a 40” .50 cal. Rice Southern Classic barrel. I’ve been questioning cutting dovetail slots for the lugs and my own opinion is to dovetail the one closest to the muzzle and the one closest to the breech. Silver solder the lug in the near center?

[oldtravler61]

  Only thing I will add is go slow with your drill.  Cut a couple inches or less back the drill out and drill again. That way your drill will not wander on you.
Well usually....lol

[c deperro]

Leave your as thick as you can. Its less likely to run off. I've put ram rod holes in after the barrel is in and before the barrel goes in. I now do the ramrod hole first. It's easier to get the web thickness that you want.

[J. Talbert]

High value advice given here, no question. While I have your ears, I’m using a 40” .50 cal. Rice Southern Classic barrel. I’ve been questioning cutting dovetail slots for the lugs and my own opinion is to dovetail the one closest to the muzzle and the one closest to the breech. Silver solder the lug in the near center?

Your dovetails only need to be .030” thick.  If you keep them that thin you’ll have no problem dovetailing all the lugs. 
If soldering the lugs I would agree they should be soft soldered at lower temps rather than silver soldered.
Jeff

[mgbruch]

My two cents.  I’m currently on gun number ten from a blank; so I feel like I might actually know what I’m doing one of these days.

Leave all the wood while you drill.

I keep my drill bit lightly lubed with beeswax.  And I only drill about ½ inch before withdrawing the bit to clear out the chips.  It’s important to keep the bit from wandering.  Once I get 3 inches drilled, I drill 1/16” feeler holes in the bottom center of the barrel channel (about every inch and a half) as I progress.  They allow me to monitor the web thickness and any wandering.  In ten guns from a blank, I've only had to finish the ramrod groove from the barrel channel on one of my early guns.  All other ramrod holes have ended up within 1/16" of where they're supposed to... if they're off at all.

You didn’t mention your ramrod groove.  For me, the key to a successful ramrod hole is a precise ramrod groove.  Centered, straight (no high or low spots), with precise web dimensions all along the groove.

I don’t know what others do; but I don’t install barrel lugs and pins until my trigger plate is in and the tang bolt installed.  So, for my sequence, there’s a lot of work between the barrel and tang and the barrel lugs.

[heinz]

Wingshot,  I would not silver solder the middle lug.  Applying high heat to a short section of the barrel  can do things to the barrel that will make your barrel maker flinch.  You should have no trouble with a shallow dovetail.  If you are really worried want you are in a thin spot restrict your soldering to sort solder, using a soldering iron.

Good barrel makers are very careful not to introduce any stresses into those long whippy barrels when they are drilling and cutting rifling. Bringing a small section up to red heat is potentially a way to put new stresses in.

[Wingshot]

I’m really glad I consulted you all and I’m grateful for the sage wisdom being shared. I’m really glad to hear that dovetailing can be done safely because I wasn’t keen on putting a torch to the barrel. (I would’ve called Jason first, either way). I’m going to focus on getting that ramrod groove dead nuts and then follow the drilling advice. I’ll be sure to post progress and hopefully pics as I move along. Right now I’m just thrilled I got the barrel and tang done and it honestly went and looks good.

[L. Akers]

Wingshot, I noticed no one answered your first question so here is my advice.  Do not do any dimensional changes to the plank until all parts inletting and hole drilling is done.  It is a lot easier to drill holes while the plank is still "in the square" and surfaces are in the same plane.

[Wingshot]

Wingshot, I noticed no one answered your first question so here is my advice.  Do not do any dimensional changes to the plank until all parts inletting and hole drilling is done.  It is a lot easier to drill holes while the plank is still "in the square" and surfaces are in the same plane.

Thanks for mentioning and fortunately I’m mindful of that. My Journey began by watching Bill Raby’s video series on the Tennessee rifle he built and it became clear to me that working from flat, squared surfaces allows for precision (or as close as one can get with anything wood) as well as wiggle room getting components in proper orientation.

[Bob Gerard]

Straying a little off course from the topic (the thread is interesting and got my curiosity up) but I had seen rifles where the ramrod hole was milled out from the bottom of the barrel channel. (Probably on a factory made product, but I believe one example was where the drilled hole was going way off course).  Was this approach done in earlier times? I am even wondering if the top of routed hole could be patched over with a glued spline to strengthen it.
Just conjecture, but interested in any pros and cons.

[Clark Badgett]

Straying a little off course from the topic (the thread is interesting and got my curiosity up) but I had seen rifles where the ramrod hole was milled out from the bottom of the barrel channel. (Probably on a factory made product, but I believe one example was where the drilled hole was going way off course).  Was this approach done in earlier times? I am even wondering if the top of routed hole could be patched over with a glued spline to strengthen it.
Just conjecture, but interested in any pros and cons.

There is really nothing new under the sun. If we have thought of it, someone way in the past probably did as well. At least within basic problem solving anyway.

[Wingshot]

I used a straight chisel to cut in just inside my layout lines and used a gouge to hog out the bulk of the wood. I then stoned a scraper blade that came with a $20 set I got from HD and went to work with it. Worked surprisingly well. Still got a little ways to go yet

[rich pierce]

Wingshot , that scraper gives me ideas. Thanks.

[mgbruch]

Here's my ramrod groove scraper, that I made out of an old screwdriver.  The scraper is just under 3/8" and I use it in conjunction with a 3/8" round rasp.  I also have a 3/8: round rasp that I broke the taper off; which allows me to rasp right up to where the groove runs into the stock.