Sear arm too short

[Bigmon]

I am reusing a large siler lock that had been on an 11/16" straight 36 cal.  Or maybe a 13/16".  No matter.  But I am using it on a larger 62 cal swamped barrel.
The problem is that the sear arm is just too short.  Maybe only 1/8" or so, but still too short.
I can lengthen it by adding some weld from a little wire feed machine.
But could the heat cause a problem.  I could use a tater as a heat sink.
I did that before with a frizzen and it worked ok.

[smylee grouch]

Can you get a new sear for it or off set the trigger to the lock side enuf to make it work?

[Daryl]

Blurping a bump on the end of the sear with a wire feed welder should not heat the sear's hardened tip. A heat sink would guarantee this.

[smart dog]

Hi,
Why not just replace the sear?  It was probably shortened for the skinny gun.  Chambers or TOW should have the part and you should be able to get it already drilled and heat treated. Hopefully, your lock was not a kit someone built because then all bets on easily fitting replacement parts are off.  I suspect that if your trigger just hits the sear at its end, you are likely to have a pretty mushy trigger pull unless the sear is fitted very precisely to the lock plate and bridle.

dave

[Ed Wenger]

You can also offset the trigger so it contacts the sear.  Many “Early” rifles, and especially muskets were made this way to compensate for the large breech.      Best,

         Ed

[Hank01]

Simply replacing the sear would be the best idea but if you're in a hurry an extension can be added. The pic below shows an extension brazed into place. It was clamped in a heavy vise to act as a heat sink before brazing. The brass seam is easy to see:



Hank

[longcruise]

How about solder a piece of steel tubing over the length of it?

[kutter]

I've done more than a few on M/Ldrs and modern SxS sears that were too short by cutting an half-lap (overlapping) joint on the existing sear. Then the same on the extension piece. This all for extra strength.

The two sections are Hard Soldered together.
I usually just put the sear nose itself in the vise jaws and close firmly as a heat sink for that area.

Never had one come apart and Hard Soldering that small of a piece is easily done with a plain Propane Torch.

I like the 'steel tube' slipped over the existing sear arm and soldered into place too...good idea!

[Dave B]

I am assuming that you have a D profile breach section?  You can slightly bevel the bolster that will bring in your rear lock panels just a tad and you dont have to weld on an extension. The off setting your trigger in the trigger plate is something that was commonly don on the old guns. Just a thought




I have seen one trigger bar for set triggers that had the triggers off set to one side just a little. I had never seen that done before. I will see if I cant find a picture of them.

[Bigmon]

Thanks all for all the advise.  All great ideas.
I remembered that I have a couple other rifles with Lg Silers.  So I just switched the sear with a different one.  And there ya have it.  Both locks work fine and theproblem is solved.
I did go out to my garage and experiment trying to lemgthen a heavy neal with my welder.  NO good, just kept burning up the nails, even after lowering the settings sveral times?
But I didnt need tht anyway.
Thanks again

[Rawhide Rick]

Many years ago, I made a thin steel tube to slip fit over the sear on a CVA to get a little more length.  I think I epoxied it in place and shaped with a file after that to relieve the bottom.  It was part of a mini musketoon  type gun I put together from pieces and parts for my young son.  It worked.