Author Topic: Basic Lock-ology  (Read 3985 times)

TgeorgeZ

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Basic Lock-ology
« on: November 16, 2009, 10:28:26 PM »
Has anyone here worked on a Jim Chambers Round-Faced Flintlock (L-12) ?

I'm having a problem getting the mainspring back into the lockplate. If I compress the mainspring to the maximum with a spring vise, I still can't get it to fit back into the lockplate.

Thanks in advance.

keweenaw

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Re: Basic Lock-ology
« Reply #1 on: November 16, 2009, 10:42:46 PM »
It should go right back in if the cock is all the way down.  The end of the cocking cam on the tumbler should be almost at the bottom of the plate with the cock the whole way down and you should have ample clearance.

Offline rich pierce

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Re: Basic Lock-ology
« Reply #2 on: November 16, 2009, 11:15:28 PM »
Give Chambers a call; they have great customer service.  Plus if you get to talk to Barbie it will brighten your day.
Andover, Vermont

Offline rick landes

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Re: Basic Lock-ology
« Reply #3 on: November 17, 2009, 05:36:20 PM »
I am hoping you are using a proper spring vise.

Are you sure you have your vise on the part correctly?

If you have pushed the spring too far into the jaws you will not be able to set it into the plate; if too far right or left it will not set in right.
“No free man shall ever be de-barred the use of arms. The strongest reason for the people to retain their right to keep and bear arms is as a last resort to protect themselves against tyranny in government." Thomas Jefferson

keweenaw

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Re: Basic Lock-ology
« Reply #4 on: November 17, 2009, 08:31:57 PM »
Water quality can make a difference but in my rather large experience in rust bluing, the most common cause of spotting is an unclean surface.  Sometimes castings can be very difficult to color evenly, something that is rarely a problem with parts made from bar stock, and sometimes there are microscopic pits and cracks in pieces that hold oil which creeps out on the surface after you degrease and gives yellow spots.  I recolored a 1800 vintage English damascus rifle barrel that spotted terribly the first time around.  Repolished it and soaked it in acetone for a couple of days to get the oil out of those tiny cracks and pits afterwhich it colored fine. 

Tom

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Basic Lock-ology
« Reply #5 on: November 17, 2009, 08:36:58 PM »
...you having a senior moment, there Snyder?  Interesting post just the same.
D. Taylor Sapergia
www.sapergia.blogspot.com

Art is not an object.  It is the excitement inspired by the object.

Offline Greg S Day

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Re: Basic Lock-ology
« Reply #6 on: November 17, 2009, 09:07:53 PM »
I'm sitting alone in my office laughing OUT-LOUD !

Senior moment indeed!

Greg
He Conquers Who Endures

Offline alex e.

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Re: Basic Lock-ology
« Reply #7 on: November 17, 2009, 09:11:45 PM »
for some reason i think the tumbler bridle is to be loosened

& turned to take out the main spring, i remember some paper accompaning the lock for dissabembly,If in doubt give Chambers a call.

BTW I Like that lock a lot :)
Uva uvam videndo varia fit

Offline rick landes

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Re: Basic Lock-ology
« Reply #8 on: November 18, 2009, 12:51:26 AM »
ODD BUT SYNDER'S POST WAS DONE SAME TIME AS MINE TO THE BLUING QUESTION...TIME WARP AGAIN???

sorry guys excuse the caps no shouting, just poor typing...rotten cap lock...
“No free man shall ever be de-barred the use of arms. The strongest reason for the people to retain their right to keep and bear arms is as a last resort to protect themselves against tyranny in government." Thomas Jefferson

Online Tim Crosby

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Re: Basic Lock-ology
« Reply #9 on: November 18, 2009, 02:05:34 AM »
I'm sitting alone in my office laughing OUT-LOUD !

Senior moment indeed!

Greg

 LMAO, almost fell out of the chair! @!*%, my head hurts!

 Tim C.

PS: Thanks Snyder, et al, I needed that. Time Warp indeed.TC
« Last Edit: November 18, 2009, 02:07:39 AM by Tim Crosby »