Flash pan powder

[Swede Creek]

On downward slope on my maverick .50 Kentucky flintlock pistol.

Am IMPATIENTLY awaiting the chance to take it out to the range.

However, my black powder stock is limited to 2F and 3F.   And am not interested in buying a single pound of 4F just for priming.  (no access to a local supplier (kansas), so not excited about the hazmat fee on one #)

SO???   

Would it work to take a wooden/ceramic mortar and pestle and grind down some 2F into smaller granules? 

Any other suggestions/comments?

[EC121]

Use the 3F.

[bigsmoke]

Use the 3F.

Ditto that.
I've used Ffg in my Brown Bess.

[45-110]

Yes a mortar/pestle works. I use a shot glass and a rounded wood dowel, does not take long to grind enough to full my priming horn.
kw

[Bob Roller]

I would think that IF the lock can produce a good volume of sparks then 3fg will work. I used it on the rifle I made with my version of one of the Ketland locks that apparently was unique to my shop.Has anyone ever timed the ignition cycle with weighed identical charges of 3 and 4fg powder in a good quality lock??
Bob Roller

[Tim Ault]

Rather than going through the hassle of grinding it finer. You could try to screen out some finer stuff that’s in the can already  .

[ScottNE]

The law in Massachusetts limits you to 2 pounds of black powder -- or rather, 1.99 pounds -- same with cartridges and primers -- 999 primers, 9999 catridges, etc.With a permit from the fire dept, a permit no fireman I spoke to had ever heard of, you can store 3.99 pounds.

So necessarily, when I lived there I did all my priming with 2F. While I have no basis for comparision since I've never primed with 4F, I can say that I never noticed a delay worth noting on my .54 using 2F to prime. Compared to a percussion gun, it was slower of course but not much. This is by no means scientific, you could certainly experiment with screening out finer powder or something, but I was satisfied with the speed 2F priming gives.

I thought Powder Valley was in Kansas, I guess they must not have a store front? Kansas is a beautiful state by the way. My first night visiting I experienced the most picture perfect prairie storm, purple lighting filling the sky, pounding rain, and the wail of the tornado sirens at 1am...An EF2 that the locals slept through.

[Pukka Bundook]

3F will work fine if the lock is half decent.
I used 2F to prime and still do in my hunting rifle. Never has been a problem.

[yip]

  FOR YEARS I USED ONE HORN  FOR MY 50CAL WITH A SILER LOCK 3F WORKED FINE

[MeliusCreekTrapper]

Add me to the 3F prime camp. I only carry one horn. When I first started, i had a little plunger style priming horn, but quit using it. 3F seems to "mud up" a little less in the pan on very humid days when shooting at the range.

[Longknife]

I have used FFF for years for priming when I discovered that FFFF tends to get very wet (draws moisture more) on foggy Midwestern mornings while squirrel hunting. Squirrels couldn't tell the difference either, they still died!....LK

[TDM]

I have used FFF for years for priming when I discovered that FFFF tends to get very wet (draws moisture more) on foggy Midwestern mornings while squirrel hunting. Squirrels couldn't tell the difference either, they still died!....LK

I agree with Longknife about 4F drawing moisture faster. I use 4F exclusively only because I have plenty to use, but I wouldn't hesitate to use 3F if needed. When the humidity is high here, which is often, I wipe the pan after almost every shot.

[Daryl]

I've used 3F for prime but prefer 4F as it delivers slightly quicker ignition. I need all the help I can get.

[MuskratMike]

I like 4F for my pans but if you have 3F it will work just fine as is.

[Austin]

Daniel Boone didn’t say ‘time out, we’re out of 4F !’ …. Just sayin

[DanL]

Disclaimer:  ********Safety first******

Of course all sizes of powder will work in the pan. I have used from 1F - 4F - Null B.

Any Graybeard in this hobby will tell you:

Discipline to keep your barrel, lock, Flint and pan in good clean order and flint properly positioned relative to the frizzen is primary.

If you have a QUALITY well tuned sparking lock, then sometimes one might can tell a difference in ignition speed. If you do not have the QUALITY well tuned lock, all bets are off. It is the spark that does the deed.

Some several years back, I ground Goex 3F in a non sparking mortar & pestle. I did not grind it all to super-fine but to a state of about every size from dust to some still remaining 3F size. In my flintlocks (Chambers locks), and with "my perception", this ground powder in the pan lights up fast and consistent and still does.

If 1F or 4F works for you then use what works for you!  We all must experiment a bit to see what suits us best in our particular application. It is not cheap to experiment but there are no shortcuts in this hobby if you want to play properly.

To reiterate:  Discipline to keep your barrel, lock, Flint and pan in good clean order and flint properly positioned relative to the frizzen is primary to
                      enjoyable experiences with a flintlock!.

Now for the thunder,
DanL

[smylee grouch]

I once went to my hunting stand with out my priming horn. I did have my 1&1/2 Swiss powder along so primed with it, grinding it up some what with the end of my " short starter ". Worked great.

[StevenV]

2F or the 3F will work fine. I knew one of the,  hands down best shooters with a flintlock, he used 1F in the barrel and 1F in the pan.  He is now longer with us but he loved to help, great man. Steve

[Daryl]

2F or the 3F will work fine. I knew one of the,  hands down best shooters with a flintlock, he used 1F in the barrel and 1F in the pan.  He is now longer with us but he loved to help, great man. Steve

Taylor did that too, when there was no other powder available. He learned to hold through the long ignition cycle. He now uses 4F, exclusively. There is no question as to why. Should be evident.
The tests performed by Pletch show considerable difference in ignition speed between the different 'grades' of powder. What someone is able to do personally, under "their" circumstances really
doesn't mean anything. Use what you want, however 4F is faster, and Null B is faster yet.

[hanshi]

3F powder works great in the pan.

[Daryl]

Yes, 3F works fine, as does 2F, but none of them is as good as 4F or Null B, which is the very best.
They are usable, yes, but not the best. Taylor had to use Meteor 1F, which was about 4 times larger in size than GOH 1F - & it worked.
It's all he had. He might have ground it, but I don't think so.

[Mule Brain]

FFF

[Pukka Bundook]

Daryl,
4 F goes mushy much faster than 2F, so I used 2F for 9 or ten years straight and never regretted it.
Each to his own and all that!
4F Is faster, if it doesn't go to paste...

All the best,
Rich.

[Daryl]

I guess our experience or perhaps circumstances differs. On the trail, I still use 4F when, after loading, I look and the pan is full of water from the humidity in the fouling. I wipe it out with a piece of flannelette cloth, prime and shoot- no problem with ignition.
I've never hunted with a flinter, other than bunnies in the winter, when it is low humidity. No mud, even after a dozen shots & the fouling is white on the side of the barrel.

[Pukka Bundook]

Ah!
That will make a lot of difference Daryl!
Hunted here in wet snow and fog, and such conditions caused the trouble with the finer powder.
For loading and shooting straight off, you will have no such trouble with 4F!!