Capture pins for wedges question.

[Swampyankee]

 This has to do with the purpose the pin serves. Is it located in the place where it prevents any movement of the wedge once inserted, or is it positioned so it acts like the barrel screw of a Colt revolver, preventing the wedge from totally falling out and getting lost?  I'm considering this as a solution to the loose wedge in the kit, this or bending the lugs or wedges themselves.

[smylee grouch]

Wedge capture pins keep the wedge from coming all the way out to prevent them from being lost.

[Swampyankee]

So they're installed near the entrance and not the exit of the wedge slot, that would be the right side, or so I'm told all pins install right to left. All pins, all sights, anything that slides.

[smylee grouch]

Direction can vary between guns and makers. The pin goes through the slot to prevent  the wedge from coming out but the wedge has to travel far enuf to clear the barrel lug.

[Pukka Bundook]

As Smylee says, prevents wedge coming All the way out.

A loose wedge can be tightened by dishing it or bending it slightly down in the middle so it binds better on the lug and stock.
This more for old guns than new ones.
wedge direction is often fitted from the right over here and Europe, but nearly always from the left on English guns.

[Swampyankee]

All I have to do is turn the rifle 90 degrees and the wedge will fall out, so the pin isn't going to do anything but keep the wedge from hitting the dirt. I hate to bend anything that's new, whether it's the under lug or wedge. A leather strap perhaps. But then the gun isn't going to be "antiqued" in anyway.
  The tolerance between escutcheons and wedge are tight, bending the wedge will make insertion a difficulty, if not an impossibility. Under lug looks to be the only answer as one manufacturer describes in their assembly manual.

[JTR]

Make a thicker wedge?

[smylee grouch]

Instal the pins but get some finish oil worked into the wedge slots in the wood. It might swell up just a bit. Tin the bottom and top of the wedge with solder, it might take up some of the slop. I dont think they will be tight but they might be less sloppy. Or do as Ron suggested and make a fat wedge. food for thought.🤔

[Robin Henderson]

Capture key on a plains rifle build....in and out....Hope this helps.




 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Make a new barrel tenon/lug with a slot that fits the slide/key better.  It is the tenon that keeps the slide tight, not the wood or the escutcheon plates.  The pin ( I use very small finishing nails cut to length, and pre-drill the wood to receive them) is installed on the entrance side or the head side of the wedge, just inside the vertical wall of the barrel channel.  Be careful not to go too deep into the wood, or you'll break out through the side of the forestock.  My pins are usually about 1/4" long and just bight into the wood below the key by a tiny bit.  The barrel prevents them from coming out, but they should be a snug fit in the pre-drilled hole.








I like to leave a little of the nail's head on the pin so that I can remove the pin latter if I so desire.  And I relieve the wood around the head so I can get at it with sharp pointed side cutters for lifting out the pin.

[Swampyankee]

A thicker wedge won't get past the escutcheons.

 Unless the capture pin  adds some friction to the wedge I'm afraid it'll just slide to the stop, I mean, it's loosey goosey.
 I don't want to mess with the barrel lug as it'll need to be sweated off and a new one found and brazened on. This kit isn't really high end enough to warrant so much extra work.
 Or I may add a shim to the lug's interior instead of bending it in the middle. That may be the easiest of all.

 The pictures are appreciated as I wasn't sure how they actually were suppose to look or function, it's plain now. The plans I have show the captured pins with a cut in the stock in the form of a "t". The plans are suppose to be based on the real deal, but who knows.

 A question regarding the slot in the wedge for the capture pin, does it narrow towards the head of the wedge or is the width of the slot consistent for it's full length? That might provide the friction I figure is needed,

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

The slots in the wedge are parallel.  They provide little to no friction in the stock...that is provided by the wood to metal fit of the slides as they pass through the wood, and by the lug.  Adding metal to the lug is a worthwhile thing to do.  Bending the slide to increase friction is a sloppy way to correct the issue. Another thing you can do is plug the rectangular slot for the key and cut a new slot.  there's a tutorial somewhere to describe this process.

[Steeltrap]

I learn something new here all the time!

[flatsguide]

Years ago I had a Samuel Nock SxS shotgun circa 1860 the tenon pin had a small threaded section and a slot for a  screwdriver. The threaded section was only slightly larger in diameter than the “pin”. That larger diameter section was the threaded portion. Insurance that it not escape when the barrels were off.
Cheers Richard