release agents

[Maurice]

Anyone had this problem....

After applying the blue release agent supplied with my acraglass kit I noticed that the film on surface of the barrel was pockmarked versus smooth as I expected - even after the second coat. The blue agent is the nonflammable variety. Not had this situation using the flammable agent. The barrel exterior is super clean.
 
Will brushed on liquid paste wax work?  Research of the site does not specify liquid or solid.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I use Kiwi shoe polish (wax) applied with a tooth brush.  But floor wax would be just as effective.

[Daryl]

Back in the 70's and 80's I used the blue liquid that came with the Acraglass kits.
After switching to epoxies, I used Synthetic axle grease as a release agant - worked perfectly.  There might be a "chemical reaction" with Acraglass,
I don't know one way or the other, but grease worked with epoxies.

[Gaeckle]

Johnsons paste wax works great

[kutter]

I used paste car wax for a long time. It worked well but still once in a while I had spots that attached itself to the metal.
Then I tried some shoe polish,,plain KIWI brand as stated above in the two piece tin.
Applied with a toothbrush & let it set while mixing up the epoxy.

I,ve never had the assemblys separate so easily since using this.

I did try plain chassis grease a couple times and it seemed like the epoxy combined with the grease coating on the parts and everything stuck together real good.
If I hadn't been in the habit of separating things after 8 to 10hrs or so regardless of the type of epoxy or release agent,,I doubt that combination would have come apart in one piece.

Everyone likely has a favorite one to use and there are many that work just as well I suspect.
But for now anyway, the show polish is mine.

[Daryl]

I assume the synthetic grease was what made the difference between our experience with is, kutter. The stuff I used was red in colour, from Canadian Tire Corp.
The 'layer' of grease was very thin and made even thinner with compression of the parts - never had a stick with it.

[rsells]

Maurice,
I use Johnson's paste was first, the brush on the release agent and let it dry.  Just before putting the part in the recess, I spray on some of their release agent just for sure.   Maybe over kill, but what a bummer it would to glue the parts in the stock!!!
                                                   Roger Sells

[elkhorne]

What do you all fill in the recesses behind the back of the breech plug and the back of the barrel with. I assume the same for the rear lock bolt hole and the tang bolt hole. Correct? I have some modeling clay, the slightly greasy kind from Hobby Lobby. Is that good or is something else better? Thanks in advance. Just trying to get all my ducks lined up before I start the bedding process to make this gun safe and shootable.
elkhorne

[Daryl]

I use store bought Plasticine. Fill the holes and get it out afterwards - works perfectly. I was going to use putty but I thought the oils
might not be good, chemically speaking.

[Not English]

Plenty of answers here. As the odd man out, I use vaseline/petroleum jelly as a release agent. I haven't used it with Acraglass, but have had excellent results with all kinds of epoxies. It works even on screws.

[elkhorne]

Taylor,
You use Kiwi shoe polish and put it on with a tooth brush you explain. Do you use it also for a filler as I mentioned in my earlier post. I’ve got to beef up a breech on a gun the builder drilled the rear lock bolt too close to the breech contact of the stock. With Acraglas gel I should be able to fill the oversized hole for more strength in the breech. Daryl mentioned Plasticine and will see if I can locate any of it locally. Thanks in advance.
elkhorne

[dstock]

I use a pin vise as others have already said. You can find them in hobby supply shops. Watch and clock repair supply places will have them in different sizes.

[HSmithTX]

Play-do from the dollar store works fine for dams and blocking things off and I assume that may be called plasticine up north? Paste wax is the best release agent I have found,  the non-flammable blue stuff that comes with Accra-glass is not great.  Currently using Kiwi,  Johnson’s works just as well. I usually apply a heavier coat,  the buff out with a lighter coat.  Have been doing this for years and years with all sorts of epoxy and never an issue, just make sure the epoxy can’t grab around anything and it will pop out pretty easily.

[Prairie dog shooter]

I use modeling clay to keep the epoxy out of places I don't want it to be and Hornady spray on case lube as a release agent. 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

elkhorne:  I have a chunk of asbestos impregnated grease that serves for filling and plugging places you don't want epoxy to flow.  It is a product used in saw mills to cast babbit bearings, given to me years ago by an old millwright friend, now deceased.  It is the consistency of plastcine.  Plasticine is what I would use if I didn't have this stuff.

[bptactical]

I do quite a bit of bedding work on “unmentionables”.
The blue goo with Craplaglass is horrible. The folks on the Kiwi trail are tracking but Johnson’s Paste Wax or 3M Boat Wax are superior. I will do 3 light coats, buffing after each. Use a soft toothbrush for nooks and crannies.
As an added assurance I give a light spray with Mold release and another buff.
I use modeling clay for any holes or undercuts.


Depending on the application I will use Devcon 10110 Steel putty or West Systems GFlex 655. Neither shrink with age.

[stubshaft]

I have to agree that the blue snot in the Acraglass box is garbage.  Years ago (before it was fashionable) I inadvertently glued an action to a stock.  Since that time I use nothing but a couple of coats of pure Carnauba paste wax.  I haven't had another faux pas in over 49 years.

[Firewalker]

Pam has always been my agent of joice. Always worked for me.

[bptactical]

Pam has always been my agent of joice. Always worked for me.

I could never get her to lie still long enough.......

[davec2]

I bought one can of this 15 years ago.  Still using it.  Just takes a tiny squirt on anything you don't want the epoxy to stick to.  A bedded barrel will practically fall out if turned upside down.  If I have to repair a stripped wood screw in a stock, I put Acra-Glass in the hole, squirt the screw, and then put the screw in the hole.  Back the screw out after the epoxy cures and you have a perfectly repaired screw hole.

The paste wax probably works just as well, but this stuff is super easy to apply and works great.

https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/stock-bedding/acra-release/