can super glue be removed?

[Bigmon]

In haste to repair something else at my bench, I let a little super glue run on to a newly finished rifle.  It has already even been waxed a couple times.  But the darned stuff seems pretty tuff on there.  I thought it might peel off cause of the wax, but NO!.  However, I don't believe it has penetrated thru the wax and several coats of Chambers Oil finish.
Any ideas??
Without sanding or having to refinish an area?  That would probably look worse than the super glue.
I thought about just covering the entire gun with super glue.  It would be a tuff tuff finish

[Daryl]

Interesting it went below the wax. Only way I can think of, is carefully, with a dental pick.  I get old ones from my Dentist's employees.

[Daniel Coats]

Put some super glue somewhere else where it doesn't matter and then experiment with heat to soften it.

[Gaeckle]

Heat will soften super glue, could probably use a piece of metal just a tad smaller than the blob....screwdriver blade, something like that

[Hawkeye2]

There are super glue removers on the market but acetone keeps popping up in a search.  If the glue penetrated the wax it looks like you will probably damage the finish with any method and if it penetrated the wood it may block it from taking stains or finish to an extent.  Wish you luck.

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/know-how/fix-stuff/remove-super-glue.html#:~:text=Blot%20the%20glue%20with%20acetone,remover%20deep%20into%20the%20glue.

[TDM]

I doubt that you will remove it without damage to your finish. But refinishing the area should not be a big problem. I’ve gone back and removed wood that was bugging me after completing a build and it took little effort to blend the area back.

[Daryl]

That was my thought as well, but perhaps a corner could be lifted by the dental tool's thin hook. If lifting it damages the surface, oh well.  Same with the heat suggestions.

[hortonstn]

Don't feel to bad I just dropped a stock I've been finishing on a concrete floor
Lucky I think I can repair it was walnut with tru-oil
Lessons learned

[elkhorne]

If you can’t get a sharp dental tool from your dentist, mine sends his back for credit and refurbishment, then there is Micro Mark tools (miniature and small hobby tools) or sometimes Hobby Lobby has had dental picks in their hobby tools area. Good luck and hope the small blob will just pop up with a little nudging. Good luck and keep us posted on what works and what does not. We all could be in your shoes one day just because of Murphy’s Law!

[bob in the woods]

I use super glue to drop fill small spots of finish damage on instruments. Scrape carefully with a razor blade, then use a gentle hand with micro mesh, then buff and you can blend the area into the existing finish. You can look up " how to's" on Youtube.

[Curtis]

I use super glue to drop fill small spots of finish damage on instruments. Scrape carefully with a razor blade, then use a gentle hand with micro mesh, then buff and you can blend the area into the existing finish. ...

I would do a Bob suggested, and carefully scrape it off with a sharp razor.  If done with care you should get down to the finish with little or no damage.

Curtis

[davec2]

I haven't used this brand myself....and i don't know what effect it mught have on your finish, but i have used a similar solvent before to dissolve cyanoacrylate glues with good success.....

https://www.amazon.com/Starbond-Glue-Debonder-Remover-applicator/dp/B0797D6NZM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?hvadid=78202937421994&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=cyanoacrylate+glue+solvent&qid=1681797254&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A1X2KTGFB57EA3&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNEE5NVE2MjNYWlE4JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDk5MDIwMUVMUERGMU1LSEo4SCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjY4NTE4MTNXU09HTThUQlpWViZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

[Jerry V Lape]

I wonder if the ultra fine abrasive films from 3M might allow you to sand through the glue and leave a finish.  The films were developed to remove blemishes in automotive paint and they make a great abrasive for sharpening chisels, planes and gouges.  Polish to a perfect mirror is possible. 

[bama]

The glue should not have penetrated very deep and is probably just on the surface. I have used a sharp chisel to lightly scrape glue from the surface and depending how deep the glue went you may not have to touch up the finish very much but I am sure you will have to touch it up.

[Scota4570]

There is wax under the CA glue??  IF so, I'd try warming it with a hair dryer to melt the wax.  Then i'd try to work the CA off with a credit card edge. 

The wife once spilled CA glue on our new corian counter top.  IT is still there.  I tried many go be gone type of things.  The more I worked at it the more the shine of the  counter top changed.  It did not help that is was a dark green. 

[Bigmon]

WOW!!  Thanks to all fro the comments and advice.  I guess I better get to it.  I am going to take some pics before and after and then maybe I will have an answer if someone else does the same blunder in the future.
Just careless on my part to even have this happen.
Thanks again

[Bigmon]

OK got a couple pictures, and mixed results.  Initially I was concerned with removing super glue on the finished surface.  That went very well.  I used a Qtip and tried saturating the glue spot with acetone.  Let it set a minute or so and then sort of scraped and chipped with a surgical scalpel I have.  Very sharp.  It came off pretty easy and I did not mar the under finish at all.  Very happy with that.
But I also has an area right behind the tang that I noticed that looked like recoil had loosened?? But it was not lose?  I did not really want to make it worse by digging it out so I just filed and sanded it down as flush as I could get it, restained a couple times and then blended in several coats of Chamber's Oil.   I also soaked the end grain in the tang inlet with super glue in hopes it might penetrate back the grain and take hold? Darn, can still see the lines but they are now flush and seem tight.  I guess only time will tell.  I can always repair it again if it comes lose.
Attached are before and after pics.
Any comments or suggestions are sure welcome?




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[Daryl]

A tight inlet at the rear of the tang will result in damage IF the breech is no solidly bed, either with strong wood, or glass. If this was a VERY heavily recoiling rifle,
like the 4 bore Bill Raby is building, I would also consider inletting and bedding in glass, a piece of steel as a rearward "stop". I've done this on "unmentionable"
.375 and .45 calibre rifles, with complete success. Soft wood is prone to compression, which loosens contacts and creates movement.