What can be done with a sloppy barrel channel

[gibster]

I bought a precarved stock not long ago that was inletted for a 7/8-inch straight barrel.  It was pre-carved and inletted about 15 - 18-years ago and has set without a barrel ever since.  The channel didn't warp and is actually pretty straight.  However, I laid a barrel in the channel today and the fit it terrible.  In some places, the fit is pretty good, but most areas over the length of the barrel show a gap.  I thought about glass bedding and may still go that route, but didn't know if there was anyting that I can do to close the gaps without filler.  The stock has pretty good figure and I would like to use it, but I need to do something about the gaps.  The gaps at the widest areas are around 0.018, all the way down to a snug fit.

[Black Hand]

Can you steam it, set in the barrel and wrap tightly?  That might close the gaps...

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Buy a new barrel...15/16" AF and inlet it nice and tight.  You can go to a little larger calibre to keep the weight down, but it will likely make into a heavier rifle.  A 15/16" bbl is only .032" larger all the way around.

[wvmtnman]

You could also use a wood plane to make thin shims to glue in the gaps.  Make sure that the shims are out of the same type of wood.  Use Elmers stainable wood glue.  This will work if the gap is not too big.  Or you might do as taylor said and fit it up for a larger barrel.
                                                                   Brian

[Roger Fisher]

Longish time ago, I had one that gapped open as you discribe or similar.  Can't recall how much.  I hot watered the stock plus some steam thinking if some is good more is 'besser'   Wrapped her with hot wet rags and after a while used blocks and clamps (slowly) and left her sit.   I later unwrapped this mummy and found I did a good job.  The stock stayed put.  So, this may be your answer; but be gentle!

[davec2]

This may be heresy on this site, but I have successfully bedded several barrel channels (for straight barrels) with Acraglass to improve a bad fit or repair a broken forearm.  It is easy to do and I have had no issues with the process or the results.  Nice tight fit and an almost completely waterproof inlet under the barrel.  I have two rifles in particular that I bedded 30 years ago and the guns are still in excellent shape.  Just a thought.

[Acer Saccharum]

Heresy is good if it works. 

[flehto]

Soak the forends in a bath tub 'til sufficiently wet, insert the waxed bbl and wrap tightly w/ surgical tubing along both the upper and lower forends. The "turns" of the tubing should be 1 to 1-1/2" apart and let set for a week....Fred

[Bioprof]

Applying a couple coats of finish in the barrel channel will fill in a small gap if it isn't too big.    The other suggestions are good too if the gap is larger.

[B Shipman]

I've done this a couple of times way back when. Picked up a warped precarved with fantastic curl for a song on occasion.
Soak it for hours. Clamp it with long blocks top to bottom first. Then with C-clamps and short wood blocks side to side until the sides are flush. Requires some force.  Put it in a dry place for a couple of weeks. Prehaps with a dehumidifier.  Close to  a radiator.Works.

[northmn]

The heat system sounds good.  For the occaisional screw up on a hand inlet barrel where there is a smaller gap I have used plane shavings.  Prestain the wood, both the shavings and the stock and glue it.  Would be quicker than the hot water/steam method but works best for smaller gaps.  A lot fo times finish will fill in some small gaps to look less unsightly.

DP

[Don Getz]

I would do what Fred and Bill have said......make it wet and squeeze it down to shape, then let it dry.    If the forend is
still in the "square" state, I would take it to the bandsaw and remove a lot of wood, make the sides about 1/8" thick
on either side of the barrel, perhaps slightly larger in the foregrip area......you'll have to do this anyway........Don

[HISTD]

I have not tried this on a stock, but on other wood items I have kerfed the closed side with my radial arm saw to almost thru, then filled the kerf with acraglas and clamped it closed. It is very easy to go overboard with this methodk but you can close up the item a significant amount. Be careful!

[gibster]

I finally made it into the shop late yeaterday and started "fixing" (hopefully) the barrel channel.  I did as Don suggested and used the band saw to trim down the excess wood along the barrel channel.  I had a section of 3-inch PVC pipe, capped on one end that I filled with water and have the forearm soaking in as suggested by Bill and Fred.  I'm not sure how long to let it soak though.  I don't want to "waterlog" it but I do want it to be wet enough that it will "hopefully" keep its shape once it dries.  I'll put the barrel in it, clamp it and let it dry for several weeks before I pull the clamps.  I'll let you know how it works.  I appreciate the input from all.  Thanks.  By the way, if I don't have a chance to get back on here until after the first of the year, I hope everyone has a MERRY CHRISTMAS.

[Eric Krewson]

I bend a lot of bow wood with heat. After you get it all wrapped up I would pour boiling water down the barrel several times to get the barrel really hot. The heat should help the wood move to the desired position. This is just a suggestion as I have never tried to bend a stock but have bent thousands of pieces of osage wood over the years. After I heat a piece of wood I wrap old Tee shirts around the place I want to bend to insulate the the wood and let the heat soak in. I get a better bend this way.   

[Darkhorse]

My heresy runs to accraglas gel. Easier to work with and stays where you put it. If  your stock is on the darker side, then the coloring agent that comes with the gel will let you get a blend real close to the wood color. Very hard to see on the finished product.