lock steel question

[Mattox Forge]

What steel alloys do you lock makers prefer to use for the various flintlock components?
Springs, cocks, plates and pans, frizzens, internals, screws, etc.
Thanks,
Mike

[Scota4570]

It matters very much.  Bob Roller told me to use the list below. 

Springs 1075
Tumblers 1144 “stressproof”
Sears and flys 0-1
Screws 12L14
Lock Plates cold rolled 1018

[Mattox Forge]

Thanks for the list.

Why 12L14 for the screws and not something hardenable like O-1

8620 for hammers and frizzens?

Mike

[Scota4570]

The leaded screw stock cuts like a dream.  The outside of the stick is clean and polished.  The diameter is accurate.  So, you can use collets to hold the stock in the lathe.  Dies cut it cleanly.  I used to make screws out of junk steel.  They were not nice looking.  The die often did not cut a smooth thread.   

I buy cast percussion hammers.  I have not scratch made a flintlock yet.  Others with more experience will know the answer.  Good case hardening agent is a problem.  Making a frizzen out of mild steel and case hardening it is more of a problem that it was when Kasenite was a quality product. 

[Mattox Forge]

I have used drill rod for screws. You're right about 12L14 being nice to turn. Drill rod isn't too bad either. I have a little bit of Kasenit left, but I have to figure out what to use to case harden frizzens and such. I was going to try the old standard bone charcoal.

Mike

[44-henry]

Carburizing is not difficult if you have a heat treat furnace or a forge, all you need  is granulated hardwood charcoal, bone is fine to and will act as a crude energizer which helps to generate carbon monoxide, but isn't really needed unless you are going for traditional colors. I have a good supply of the old Kasenit, but don't use it much anymore. Pack hardening is easier and better.

[Bob Roller]

I have been out of the lock making end for close to 4 years and that list still is my choice of materials.
Cast cap lock hammers were usually 8620 or were presented as such and frizzens supposedly 52-100
which is/was ball bearing material and it seemed to work.The 1075 for me was best and so far,so good and
I have locks all over the world.Cast frizzen springs were used but I don't remember the number of the steel.
The 1144 machines like 12L14 but oil hardens and can easily be tempered and I used the antiquated "watch
the colors"method I learned from George Killen when I was about 14.Lock MAKING as opposed to assembly
of cast parts is a lot of work.I was and still am attracted to the fine English locks of the 19th century and was
able to come close to that level of quality and am pleased by the outcome.A real contrast is comparing one of these English 3 and 4 screw locks with those frequently seen on a lot of American guns like the much loved
Hawken.Those are utility grade locks and they worked and my own first attempts at lock making were not one bit better.The last lock I started to make was one of these on the J&S hammer and plate and it may stay in an
unfinished condition.The lock and trigger market,such as it is now can be considered well covered.
Bob Roller   

[T*O*F]

Somewhere in the archives, Barbie Chambers posted a list of all metals used in their locks.  Maybe someone saved it.

[Bob Roller]

Thanks for the list.

Why 12L14 for the screws and not something hardenable like O-1

8620 for hammers and frizzens?

Mike

IF the 0-1 screwa not tempered exactly right a split screw head can be a real PITA.
Bob Roller

[rich pierce]

Thanks for the list.

Why 12L14 for the screws and not something hardenable like O-1

8620 for hammers and frizzens?

Mike

IF the 0-1 screwa not tempered exactly right a split screw head can be a real PITA.
Bob Roller

Excellent point, Bob. 4140 would be a good compromise and I think that’s what Brownell’s screw blanks are.

[Bob Roller]

I have made many from 0-1 drill rod and most were ,157 head diameter but I got a super deal on enough 12L14 to last VERY long time.
I never thought of hardening the 0-1.The company I bought it from was going out of business and I bought all they had.The upper bridle screws and sear and sear spring screws were made from the 12L for years.The materials I mentioned were readily available and my locks and triggers are all over the USA and several other countries as  well and so far so good.Most of the locks seen on American guns were made from materials that were not identified but known to work AND a lot of them were fired only when they had to be such as in hunting.
The .157 diameter of the 12L14 was the same size as the drill rod I had been using.Turn the shank,thread it and part it off.
Bob Roller