removing the cock

[yip]

  planning on browning my lock on my mountain rifle by Kibler and having trouble removing the cock, Jim did a great job with fitsgot ti all tore down except for the cock. is there any help.

[JLayne]

I had the same trouble and I believe Jim made a video on disassembling one of his locks that you might be able access through his website. I don’t recall exactly how he did it in the video but it helped me at the time.

Jay

[JLayne]

The link to the video is above.

Jay

[yip]

.  he makes it seem simple but what i have is his NEW lock which has a stirp and it look like the fly is on the inside of the thumper. it seems to be one $#*! of excellent lock

[Daniel Coats]

Just follow the instructional video and whatever you do don't pee on it

[mikeyfirelock]

The easiest way I have found is to remove all the internals from the lock ( springs, bridle, and screws:  then back the cock screw out maybe 1 or 2 turn, and tap it until the tumbler starts to loosen in its hole.   If need be, the screw can be loosened a bit more, and tapped again till the tumbler will come free.  I cannot stress enough the word TAPPING.  A little light oil lube on the tumbler shaft at the outset may be beneficial.  Restraint is a virtue here.

[Bob Roller]

It IS a very fine lock and he took one apart for me at a show and it's at the top and I speak from long experience in making a very wide group of locks.His CNC manufacturing has brought fine and correct locks to the makers.I made u[graded mechanisms for many locks but I see no way to improve on the Kibler late Ketland.Classic styling and late flintlock performance.The one he showed me had a bushing thru the sear for the screw to go thru,a neat touch for sure,not needed but there anyway.
Bob Roller

[Eric Kettenburg]

I saw the thread title and thought it was going political.  Oops, carry on. 

[smylee grouch]

I made a lock disassembly block and drive the hammer/cock off the tumbler with an appropriate sized tapered square nose punch.

[Spalding]

I know most have modified their own, me included, but Jim now has a brass punch available. His screwdrivers are nice too, ordered a set along with the punch for my range box.
Can never have enough tools.
https://kiblerslongrifles.com/collections/tools/products/square-brass-punch?variant=40079669362806

Bob

[Randall Steffy]

I personally would not tap out a tight tumbler from the cock by tapping on the loosened cock screw. That seems to have the potential to bend the screw by tapping the screw head off-center or damage the thread. I would only tap on the top of the square tumbler shaft with as large a square brass drift as fits the square cock hole. Refrain from inserting a round punch to the bottom of the tapped hole in the tumbler to drive upon if you want to be safe and not risk a broken tumbler shaft. I hope this was explained well.

[yip]

 DANIEL COATS; DON'T LAUGH BUT MY BARREL TURNED OUT NICE , TRY IT!

[bama]

Jim Locks are top notch and the tolerances are very tight. I had to make a square punch the same size as the tumbler shaft and make a punch block that would allow room for the tumbler to fit down into it. Then I placed it on a solid surface and had to give the punch a couple of good raps to get the tumbler to come loose from the cock. A little scary the first time but it will come loose. So much different than the locks that have several thousandths play in the tumbler shaft hole and the the cock pressed on the tumbler shaft.

Thank you Jim for raising the bar on lock quality.

[TDM]

My method for removing the cock is to disassemble the lock until just the lock plate, tumbler, and cock remain. If you don’t disassemble locks often id recommend taking photos of the process to aid reassembly. Find a deep socket that the tumbler will fit inside without touching, but still supports the underside of the lock plate. You’ll need a squared head punch that fits the inside of the cock but still has the contact area to avoid thread damage to the tumbler. I make mine from mild steel 1/4” square stock. Place the socket on a vise pad or hard surface, place the lock plate and tumbler on top and give the tumbler fitting a good wack with the punch and a medium size hammer. Nothing violent, just a whack, and the tumbler will drop into the socket. Works every time and no damage.

[Daniel Coats]

I don't think it's mentioned elsewhere but I put the loose parts in a sandwich bag during disassembly. This keeps all the parts together and helps keep track of where the screws go. Another tip is to put some of the small pieces together with a piece of painters tape . You could figure out assembly eventually anyway but this just makes it quicker.

[dogsbreath]

Had the same difficulty in separating the cock from the tumbler. Generally do what Jim's video shows but in this case I was concerned I would bend the locke plate. Yes it was that tight. Ended up laying wood jig with plate support cutout on the concrete floor with some protection under the tumbler. Took two cringe worthy hits to separate the two.  It's a big spring and large cock so I understand and appreciate the need for close tolerances.   

[Frank]

This is why I leave all my Kibler locks in the white or some judicious application of cold browning or Jax Black that doesn't require removing the cock.

[yip]

 Well i got it apart i used TDM idea and an old 1/4" tap and taped it apart. thanks fellas!

[Eric Krewson]

I made a simple cock remover to knock the tumbler into when it comes out of the plate, I had to write what it was on the block of wood because I threw several of these away while cleaning up my workbench thinking it was just a piece of scrap wood.