Barrel Inletting Question

[GCheatham]

Getting started on the first build and I had a question. The Chambers video says to remove the breach plug and inlet the barrel first then replace the breach plug and inlet the tang but online videos do not show this removal - the entire assembly is inlet together.

Is this just two different methods? If so is one preferred over the other?

Thanks,

Glen

[wapiti22]

I find it much easier to get the barrel in first and then the barrel with plug.

[Hatchet-Jack]

I was taught to inlet the bbl minus the breach plug, then install the breach plug and inlet it. It's just easier to get things squared up. There are builders that inlet it all together.

For a pre-carved stock you don't have much flexibility to move the placement of lock due to the mortise already cut. Some builders inlet the bbl minus breach plug, then inlet the lock to ensure the touch hole will line up where it should. If it doesn't you might be able to adjust the barrel back if needed then install the breach plug and finish inletting it. If you inlet bbl and breach plug (which ever way) before the lock you might have a real problem if your lock/touch hole doesn't align.

[bluenoser]

I have not done a lot of builds and still consider myself to be a novice - certainly not an expert builder, but have built both ways.  It is just two approaches to the job.  The advantage of removing the plug is the ability to inlet one component at a time.  I don't believe there is a disadvantage.  In my opinion, it is a particularly advantageous approach for an inexperienced builder.

[Bob Roller]

I find it much easier to get the barrel in first and then the barrel with plug.

On the FEW I scratch built this was my method as well.Remove all wood that does not look like a barrel channel and that's it
Bob Roller

[Scota4570]

IF the breech plug has a flared tang you will want to remove it.  The stock's inlet at the breech end of the barrel will  nee to be squared up.  The barrel will be moving back as the work proceeds.  IF the you have a flared tang it will make ugly gaps as the assembly moves back. 

Don't worry about removing it.  Use fitted hardwood blocks and rosin on the barrel.  Use a wrench that fits the vertical portion     of the tang.  Grab the bottom of the tang such that the wrench is not putting pressure on the top edge of the tang. This avoids marring it.  When you put it back fit it so that the top of the tang is parallel to the top flat.  I check this by running a finger nail across the mating surfaces.  It is misaligned in the slightest you can feel the difference between the sides.  Visually check that the tang is centered on the top flat. 

[GCheatham]

Thanks everyone. I'll remove the plug and do the barrel first.

If I might ask one more question. The video indicates that the end of the tang can be cut and filed to a shape better suited to the rifle. Where would be a good place to see examples for a Virginia long rifle?

Thanks for all the help.

Glen

[Dennis Glazener]

Thanks everyone. I'll remove the plug and do the barrel first.

If I might ask one more question. The video indicates that the end of the tang can be cut and filed to a shape better suited to the rifle. Where would be a good place to see examples for a Virginia long rifle?

Thanks for all the help.

Glen

Which VA rifle ? you need to know who the maker was in order to know what tang he normally used. Then probably best to buy one of the KRF CD's that has that makers rifles pictured. Here are some they have but many more have been added. https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=22518.0
Dennis
Dennis

[Blacksmoke]

Hi Glen: Welcome to the ALR!  With 50yrs. of gun building under my belt I have found that you have a better outcome when you inlet the barrel with the breech plug already installed in the barrel. Doing it this way eliminates the need to adjust either the stock or the breech tang when at the final depth. Also the breech plug should be considered a permanent part of  the barrel as the tenons are after they are installed.  It is encouraging to see people like you step out and approach the scratch built realm as our gunmaker for-fathers did all of the time.  Kudos to you and good luck!  Hugh Toenjes

[smallpatch]

Take the plug out. As said earlier, especially with a flared tang. Not much room to move the barrel back, if the tang is inlet.

[Pete G.]

Make a witness mark across the joint between the plug and barrel to help with reassembly.

[J Shingler]

I am another to inlet the barrel. Then add the breach plu and inlet. That way you are working on variable at a time.  You want full contact at the barrel breach to wood and also the back of the breach plug to wood. Again easier to do one at a time. With a good fit at both of these areas I have never had the wood chip out behind the tang at a later date from shooting recoil.
Jeff

[elkhorne]

Glen,
Welcome to ALR! You mention the Chamber’s video. Is that the one with Jim Turpin? Also are you building your rifle from scratch or are you building a Chamber’s kit? If you are doing a Chamber kit, pay particular attention to Jim’s comments and discussion on moving the barrel back about 1/8th inch. It is very important otherwise the touchhole will hit in the edge of breechplug. Jim demonstrates this procedure with the breechplug removed. Good luck.
elkhorne

[GCheatham]

It is the Mark Silver Va kit. The video is with Jim Turpin. I didn’t catch moving the barrel back. I’ll watch it again. Thanks for the heads up!