Kibler Colonial w. Double Set Trigger(?)

[shaman]

I understand that Kibler does not afford the option of a double-set trigger on his Colonial and Woodsrunner  kits. 

My question is this:  What are the options if one really-really wants a double-set trigger?

[Mike Brooks]

The colonial will take a Davis set trigger. I have done a couple. I don't think the runner will take one.

[Tim Crosby]

 FWIW:

   https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=76435.msg758567#msg758567

   Tim

[EC121]

I had one of Mike's set trigger Colonial rifles.  Because the single trigger plate is wider than the set trigger plate, a couple of fillers have to be inlet one on each side of the plate.  Done right it is almost invisible.  It also extends the LOP slightly.

[shaman]

Thanks for the info.

[wmrike]

I understand really wanting a set trigger; there are considerations of function and aesthetics. 

If you haven't handled one of the Colonials, see if you can lay hands on one with the single trigger.  It might surprise you.  The lock is excellent.  The trigger (pin placement and lever arms) is well designed.  My Colonial breaks cleanly at 1.5# and I'm pretty happy with that.

[Brian Jordan]

I added Davis #4 triggers to my colonial. I glued in a piece of maple from another rifle build, and re-inlet the triggers. it turned out fairly invisible once the finish was complete.

[Beaverman]

Nicely done Brian, just got notified my Woodsrunner shipped today, looking forward to playing in the new shop.

[Jim Kibler]

Looks great!

[Brian Jordan]

Thanks Jim! I would like to add to this. when I purchased my colonial Jim was not offering his CNC lock yet with the kits, but they were in production. The lock I received with the rifle had no fly in the tumbler. this was an obvious problem with the set triggers. I called Jim's shop and explained what I was doing, and 2 days later I received a new tumbler with fly in the mail at no charge. This highlights the customer service of Jim's company and his dedication to produce a quality product.

[duca]

Wow! That’s Great!!!

[Bob Roller]

Thanks Jim! I would like to add to this. when I purchased my colonial Jim was not offering his CNC lock yet with the kits, but they were in production. The lock I received with the rifle had no fly in the tumbler. this was an obvious problem with the set triggers. I called Jim's shop and explained what I was doing, and 2 days later I received a new tumbler with fly in the mail at no charge. This highlights the customer service of Jim's company and his dedication to produce a quality product.

This is light years away from when i got interested in muzzle loading guns in the early 1950's.Until the late 1970's anything made for a muzzle loader,especially the locks and triggers had to be cheeep no matter who nice and precise they were made.Good barrels,fine wood and nice trim and low end locks were the order of the times.I made what was considered a quality lock and trigger but they were not wanted and I got connected to a good market in Germany that didn't want low end locks and said they could get them from Spain and that let me keep working in my own shop.
   The Kibler kits have brought a new element to the to the very narrow market for muzzle loading guns and have excluded the caplocks
altogether and I hope they use that fine late Ketland lock as an ignition system for an English half stock sporting rifle.
Bob Roller

[shaman]

I added Davis #4 triggers to my colonial. I glued in a piece of maple from another rifle build, and re-inlet the triggers. it turned out fairly invisible once the finish was complete.
 

That looks exactly like what  I'd want. Exactly how did you align the new trigger?  Were you able to re-use any of the existing holes, or did you start over fresh?

BTW:  Mister Kibler, I'm very impressed with what you're doing.  I'm about 90% of the way to ordering a rifle.  All I have to do is re-arrange the workshop and start acquiring the specialized tools.  This looks like an awesome project for retirement.  Thanks for making it so easy.

[Brian Jordan]

Shaman,

I was able to maintain the original trigger pull, and use the existing hole for the sear bar, and the tang screw. Both screw holes for the original trigger plate were not used for the set triggers.

[smylee grouch]

Curious,  what specialized tools you need to assemble one of these kits.

[ClaMar]

Smylee,  Jim's website has the necessary files.  Other than that, a small drill, a couple of chisels, a flat standing block and sandpaper is about all you need.  I suggest you watch the series of videos he has on Youtube and take notes of the tools he says you need.

I bought the files, used a couple of chisels I already had to assemble and finish mine. 

Did I mention that the videos are very good and show you everything that needs to be done and how to do each step?

Clarence

Clarence

[smylee grouch]

Welcome to the forum clarence. I guess I was trying to say there isn't any specialized tools needed, only a few basic everyday tools as the kits are so advanced you don't need much in the line of tools to assemble them.

L

[Waksupi]

With a properly hung single trigger, I see no need for a set trigger, especially for a hunting rifle.

[J Shingler]

Here are a few pictures on how I added the set triggers. I made a piece of maple that looked like the original steel trigger plate. Inlet that and glued into place. I got the wood grain a little off but there is so little left after inletting the set trigger plate it doesn't show. Also this stock it to be stained dark. As to trigger placement, it has to be like any other. The sear has to be where the two trigger knives cross to work properly. After installing they work and function great. I did replace the rear trigger shoe with my own to better fit the trigger guard. The guard is actually the hard part. As it is inlet it can not be moved forward or backward. But it works fine with a little patience.