Reenactment flashguard on a Kibler lock

[Crabapples]

Has anyone experience with attaching a flashguard (a Brigade of the American Revolution safety requirement) to a Kibler lock?

Last April I built my first muzzleloader, a Kibler Colonial. I've been shooting it all year and having a great time with it. There's also a local Revolutionary War Days event coming up in my town, and some of the guys there have convinced me to come out and portray a militia rifleman, and I intend to take my Kibler along.

One of the safety requirements is that my rifle be fitted with a flashguard, which is supposed to protect the guy to my right from being flashed with smoke and sparks ejected from the flash hole when I fire. The problem is that I don't have an obvious way to install it. On a Brown Bess, the bolt holding the frizzen in place is screwed in from the outside of the lock. The flashguard is supposed to be attached with this same bolt, making it fairly simple to install. The frizzen bolt on the Kibler, however, is screwed in from the inside.

I wonder whether the frizzen bolt is commercially available in a slightly longer version.

[Seth Isaacson]

Can you perhaps be positioned at the right end of the line to forestall the need for such modification or arranged in a more spread-out skirmishing position?

[bob in the woods]

I made a simple "flash guard" that I used a couple of times only just to meet the same kind of requirement. It was made from a piece of sheet steel , bent up with the aid of my vice, and fitted to the main screw that clamps the flint in place. As the cock come down and strikes the frizzen, the guard automatically comes in place to block the vent discharge.  Easy to remove .
An alternative would be to ask Jim Kibler if he has available a longer screw and nut which would allow the fitting of a standard guard

[Crabapples]

fitted to the main screw that clamps the flint in place. As the cock come down and strikes the frizzen, the guard automatically comes in place to block the vent discharge.  Easy to remove .
An alternative would be to ask Jim Kibler if he has available a longer screw and nut which would allow the fitting of a standard guard

That's a clever idea. I'd love to see a photo, if you have one.

I have sent Jim an email and left a voicemail and hope he'll get back to me.

Thanks!

[Crabapples]

Can you perhaps be positioned at the right end of the line to forestall the need for such modification or arranged in a more spread-out skirmishing position?

That'd be ideal. The idea of bolting on a doohickey doesn't thrill me. But from what I can tell, these flashguards are non-negotiable.

[T*O*F]

I don't kow if you can see mine clearly.  It's brass and was commercially available.  Held on with a screw and bent into position.  It came flat.  Been on the gun over 30 years and never found it to be a problem.

[120RIR]

As implied in at least one of the replies, I would suggest you simply go to your local hardware store, get a bolt and nut that are slightly longer than on the Kibler lock, screw it on from the inside as noted, slap on the silly flashguard, and tighten the nut down.  Darken up the nut and the screw so they're not quite so shockingly bright and that's that.  Once you're done with the show, remove the modern nut/screw and you're back to period correct.  While the flashguard is a fine safety vs. authenticity compromise, it is of course about as authentic as a wristwatch at a Brigade show so a tiny exposed modern-day hardware store nut shouldn't send anyone into a tizzy (emphasis on "shouldn't").  Just a thought. 

[Crabapples]

As implied in at least one of the replies, I would suggest you simply go to your local hardware store, get a bolt and nut that are slightly longer than on the Kibler lock, screw it on from the inside as noted, slap on the silly flashguard, and tighten the nut down.  Darken up the nut and the screw so they're not quite so shockingly bright and that's that.

Ace had a selection of “gun screws”, one of which fit the bill. Had to file the head down so it would fit into the socket on the inside of the lock, but it’s a good fit and will serve the purpose. The bolt from Ace doesn’t have a nice shoulder for the frizzen to hinge on, but it is functional, and should be ok for five or six shots at least. 

Thanks!

[WKevinD]

Many years ago I had drilled and tapped a 6-32 hole and mounted this with a brass machine screw and would remove the flash guard and replace the short screw when hunting with this gun.
Kevin

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[Scota4570]

Yes, several.  The SMR requires a longer screw and a nut to be made.  The Colonial worked with the Kibler screw.  I make fence at a lower angle to direct the gas squirt up but not to stop it cold.  The idea was to protect the guy to my right but not put excessive smoke on my glasses.  My club requires one to shout, "flintlock" before firing.  I feel silly doing that and I do not want to injure anyone on the line.  The deflectors are made of sheet brass.