Installing powder drum

[Catskinner]

I am installing a Track of the Wolf drum on a CVA Hawken barrel  The threads are metric 10-1.25mm.  They match the threads in the barrel perfectly with one problem.  I have carefully used the "back" side of a 10-1.25mm die and made sure the threads are finished to the shoulder.  After applying anti seize to threads I screwed the drum into the barrel and snugged it down tight without overtightening.  The problem is the shoulder of the drum is not up against the flat of the barrel. It's probably a sheet of paper from contacted the flat.  I know the threads are not bottoming out in the barrel ( I can screw a 10-1.2mm bottoming tap in the barrel hole and it goes a little deeper than drum threads)  Does it need to be in against the barrel flat?  Would I need to slightly countersink the barrel hole a little. Please help

[rich pierce]

I’d take a smudge off the drum where the threads meet the shoulder.

[Scota4570]

You need to figure out what is stopping it.  Degrease it.  Use cold blue, dye-chem, or sharpie marker to coat the likely places it might be binding.  Screw it in.  Work it back and forth at the pont it binds.  Unscrew it.  Observe the bright spots.  File off the bright spots.  Even better use a lathe if you can.  Repeat the process.  You want it to bottom out on the barrel.  Well the barrel and the inner shoulder at the same time.  But I sounds like that will not happen.  Can't win them all.  Good luck 

[smylee grouch]

Also make sure the threaded portion does not protude into the bore.

[P.W.Berkuta]

First I would not be removing this drum once installed so the anti-seize is not used. I'd use loc-tite instead. You can do a small countersink on the barrel and try it for fit but you will lose some thread engagement. This might not be a problem depending on the barrel thickness. Your other option is to cut a shoulder grove in the drum so that it can mate flush with the side of the barrel. Here again you will lose some thread engagement this time from the drum. This undercut can also weaken the drum and cause a stress fracture blowing out the drum. If it was me I would countersink the barrel and use the loc-tite.

[smallpatch]

You may need to slightly countersink the barrel a bit. Sometimes the threads are not all the way flush against the back of the drum, so you need a little relief so the drum will turn in flush.
Hope that made sense.

[FlintFan]

You may need to slightly countersink the barrel a bit.

That is what needs to be done.  It is impossible to fully thread up to a shoulder, even with a die.  The thread relief needs to be provided on the female side, in the form of a countersink.

[Hungry Horse]

 This is a common problem with this gun. The only problem is a traditional drum in this rifle does not fulfill the manufacturers design that uses the long drum thread as a cross bolt through the breechplug. This nullifies the warrantee and renders the manufacturer free of liability for malfunctions.
 Blown out drums on these guns are common, and corrosion in the bottom of the breechplug is almost unavoidable. Locktite red would be a solution to keep from turning the drum into a bullet, if you can get rid of the antiseze. Good luck

Hungry Horse

[Dphariss]

The problem is that they are cold rolled steel and need a radius where then threaded portion meets the body. Honestly I would not thread it completely against the shoulder as the cut is a stress riser. AND it must positively bear in the lockplate. Otherwise they can and have break off do to the shock of hammer strikes something I learned about 1968 and have had a friend tell me of a similar occurrence. As a result I NEVER, EVER stand on the lock side of a drum and nipple gun when its fried. Not do I build drum and nipple guns. But thats just me and things I have learned.
Dan