After reading the thread on installing inlays, I put one in a cheek piece and took pictures as I went. It's not hard to do provided that certain steps are done prior to the installation.
This is the inlay I will install. I've already annealed it. I'll place it on the stock and trace it out with a pencil, then put it on the bench and look at it from a distance. If I like what I see then I go to the next step.
Next, I'll prep up the inlay. I'll use a marker to show where I want my pins to be and also to indicate where the front is with an arrow. Then I drill my pin holes (I'm using 1/16" pins) and then file a chamfer on the edge of the inlay. I file from the backside
any point in the inlay because it is hard to cleanly remove wood from such tight tiny spots.
Now I cut some pins and file as sharp a point as I can on one side. I cut the pins long so that I can remove them to check my progress.The inlay is placed on the stock in the position indicated by the penciled outline, then I'll drill the holes through the inlay onto the stock doing so one at a time. When I do this step I insert a pin, then proceed to the other so the inlay doesn't shift
Now I cut the outline using an excato knife with a sharp point. Sometimes going around a rounded corner the point may drag as opposed to cutting so I'll poke the tip to make a dotted line sort of approach and then make the cut. I find that at any place where there is a point I begin the cut at the beginning of the point in case the knife slips. Once I cut the outline I'll remove the pins, check to see how my outline is and what needs to be reinforced
Now I start removing wood. I make a back cut. For this project I will use a bunch of shallow sweep gouges of a variety of sizes. I kinda hunt and peck until I find the ones that will fit the profile. If the cuts overlap in the interior of the design that's OK
I use very small chisels, many made from old Allen wrenches put in a drawer pull handle to basically cut away the wood. To smooth out the interior I made a tiny scraper from a small Allen wrench put into a handle. The edge on this is pretty good an sharp and doesn't take much to dress it up
When the interior is cut and leveled to the best I can I put inletting black on the backside of the inlay, place it in the mortise and slightly tap the inlay into place with a small wooden block that acts as a non deformity punch. Keep in mind the inlay is very soft and using anything metal may dimple or dent the inlay and that can cause problems.
I'll remove the pins and inlay and any high spot is removed. Once I'm satisfied with the work I put glue into the mortise, then I cut down the length of the pins anput a head on each one. To do this I file the cut end flat, hold the pin in a hand vise with a small amount of the pin sticking out and I tap the top of the pin with a very small (2 ounce) ball peen hammer. I use the peen side and peen the pin, it doesn't take make much, all I'm wanting is an edge to grab onto the hole in the inlay. I'll put the inlay back in the glued up mortise and run my pins in. I don't hammer the pins real hard because the inlay is soft and overdoing it will cause a depression in the surface of the inlay. It's more of a feel but the head of the pin will grab the inlay sufficiently to hold it in place.
image hostingOnce the glue dries, and it doesn't take long, about 45 minutes to an hour, enough for a cup of coffee, I will file and clean up the work. If any corners decide to spring up I use a little brass punch I made ti gently punch them back down. Gently is the key here. I use scrapers, files and sandpaper on forms to polish out the installed inlay
I hope this helps. This is how I do this sort of thing and I'm sure there are are other methods
