Jaeger Build

[Cotton1of2]

This is a Jaeger rifle that I’ve been working on for several months now. Getting near to done with the hardware installs. But so far the brass barrel has been Inlet, thank you Mr. Rase, lock plate installed, buttplate, trigger plate, thimbles and horn nose cap. Next up is trigger guard and side plate.

I hope to keep this thread updated with my progress.

[dadybear1]

LOOKS LIKE A MASTERPIECE ,COTTON..  GREAT JOB SO FAR..  WHAT CALIBER, AND COULD YOU GET BETTER SHOT OF MUZZLE??  THANKS FOR PICS N UPDATE!!!

[Cotton1of2]

LOOKS LIKE A MASTERPIECE ,COTTON..  GREAT JOB SO FAR..  WHAT CALIBER, AND COULD YOU GET BETTER SHOT OF MUZZLE??  THANKS FOR PICS N UPDATE!!!

Thank you, sir. It’s a .58 cal. and I assume you’re referring to the beautifully sculpted hardware. That was created by a master almost 280 years ago and cast for my use by Ron Scott. I just need to do it all justice

[smylee grouch]

This looks like a great project. What lock and triggers are you using?

[Cotton1of2]

This looks like a great project. What lock and triggers are you using?

Thank you, sir.

The lock is by Chris Laubach, used to be Firelocks llc. Triggers are a custom job that Ron Scott had made, don’t know the maker but they’re excellent quality.

[Cotton1of2]

Here’s how I inlet parts, especially with complex perimeters.

With a good draft on the edges I attach the part with a screw if possible. Otherwise hold it in place and strike it with a mallet, leaving the black imprint of the part. I only remove the black as I inlet and only stab the edges once they’re defined. I do not precut the edges.








I use a selection of gouges and scrapers to inlet.











You can remove all black until it comes to the edges, I look for compressed and polished wood to remove. Taking off all black will leave gaps.






I repeat the process for the leading finial. I’ve cut off the tang as it was too short to use, I’ll add it back later.










Once I finish the inlet I drilled and tapped for a peice of all thread which I then forged one end flat and filed the threads off. I screwed this in and brazed in place.








I then drilled a pin hole which will hide under the lock and side plate.








Rinse and repeat on side plate

[Daryl]

VERY precise inletting. Well done.

[Cotton1of2]

VERY precise inletting. Well done.

Gracias, Señor.

[smylee grouch]

It looks like things are progressing nicely. Nice documentation of your progress too.   

[Grischi]

I like jaeger rifles in general and this is going to get gorgeous. Hope I don't miss pictures of the finished rifle.

Christian

[Dave Willer]

Looking good Ryan!

[alacran]

Watching your progress. Very nice so far.

[smart dog]

Hi,
Your project looks great.  I admire you having the confidence to inlet your trigger guard and pin it with the stock still so square.  I find it useful to have some flexibility to change the profile, particularly the bottom, as I shape the stock from 2D to 3D. Anyway, wonderful work and keep posting.

dave 

[Cotton1of2]

I sincerely appreciate everyone’s kind words. I’m open to criticism as well. Smartdog, I appreciate your input and I’d be open to any suggestions you have. I respect and admire your work very much.

I inlet my trigger guard with the stock in the square based off previous experience with precarved stocks. I’m determined to leave it square until everything is inlet. It’s easier to hold the rifle and to gauge squareness of components. The belly is established based on the line from entry thimble to the toe and which are pre-established, and the visual relation between the belly and the top profile. I also have ideal wrist dimensions and established comb height to gauge from. This is just my technique.

Thanks again everyone, feedback is encouraging.

-Ryan

[Cotton1of2]

Now that I have the side plate inlet, that’s all the superficial parts and now is when I choose to shape the stock. The side plate and lock are different sizes and each will have an appropriately sized panel even though they will be different by almost 3/4”. Original rifles exhibit this same feature and viewed from the top, are visibly different.









I use a gouge to get near depth on the lock plate and reduce it with a sanding block.



I found the a spokeshave is very useful for roughing most of the wood off. I found it interesting that the spokeshave helps create the typical features of a rifle stock. It’s almost as if the features are a product of the spokeshave.



I use guidelines for roughing, drawn at .120”, final height is .100”. Note to self: stay away from horn with the spokeshave, it does not cooperate and will tear out huge chunks!





I found these Dragon rasps from Stewmac to be very helpful although I’ve never use the French rasps. I like the width of the dragon although the half round side is a very large radius and not always as useful as a standard half round.













I’ll get to the internals eventually, kinda tedious

Thanks everyone and Happy New Year!

-Ryan

[Long Ears]

Cotton, I did not know this about the side panels being different in length on some original rifles. Out west we don't get to see many. Your work methods seem quite different than what I've seen demonstrated previously. Thank you for takeing the time do show your processes. Bob

[Cotton1of2]

Started the sliding patch box. I cut a mortise to even depth and used a broken 3 square to gouge out the dovetails, finishing with the file. I rough trimmed a pine key and fitted it. This is a tapered key so it only locks up at the final push.

[smylee grouch]

Well it looks as though your progressing nicely and precisely. Looking very nice. 👍

[smart dog]

Hi,
You are doing a fantastic job.  Please keep sharing!!

dave

[Cotton1of2]

I cut the buttplate dovetail yesterday. Used a hacksaw blade to chop down along each edge, jewelers saw to remove the bulk and a 3 square to finish up the dovetails. This made my first key loose so I made another, better this time.

Then I used a spade bit to hog out the compartment and mortise chisels to finish. Not sure how much time that really saved and now I have evidence of power tools in my stock.











pictures to put on facebook

[Cotton1of2]

I made a mistake but it was fixable and a great experience. When I glued up the lid, I realized I had not flattened the stock enough to account for the width of the lid, doh! I had also set the lid too far forward and it did not meet the buttplate all the way across, double doh!

I disassembled the lid, destroying the key in the process, so here goes #3. I flattened the stock a bit more to allow the lid the be seated flush against the buttplate and proceeded to glue up again.




I used a set of leaf gauges as a template to draw my angles in each end of the rough key and connected them with a line across the top. I used a plane to get close and started fitting. I sanded off the shiny spots on each rail until it seated snugly. It’s super humid so I think I’m okay with a tight fit. In the summer it will loosen up.



I drew guidelines on the key, two perpendicular and one parallel center line. I placed the lid on top and transferred the lines so when I glue up, I can have a reasonably accurate placement.



Make sure they’re lined up and clamp, fingers crossed.



Much better this time. Now I’ll file it flush and install a brass cap and catch.

[smylee grouch]

Nice recovery. Your work and the documentation of it is very nice too. Thanks for taking us along on this enjoyable ride.

[Cotton1of2]

Finally mostly don’t with this. The latch part will be simple compared to the rest.

I moved on a started to relieve the wood around the mounts. I’m using a background relief tool made by Ron Scott.

[Cotton1of2]

I received a cast patchbox latch and promptly cracked it. I started another from 3/8” mild steel round bar. I forged a head and a flat for the screw, the rest was file work and bending.







I’d post a video but I’ll just have to say the sound of the lid sliding on and latching is very satisfying.

I apologize for the poor documentation and this was more challenging than I expected.

[Cotton1of2]