sling loop and trigger bar questions

[foresterdj]

Working on one of the jaegers today, got side plate inlaid and lock bolts trimmed to flush with lock. Then drilled 3 barrel pins, this all went well. Was going to drill for front sling loop. I know that eventually there will be quite a bit of stock thinning (even though this is a Jaeger, the pre-carved is pretty thick), so my question is, should I a) narrow up stock to fit loop width and drill it now, b) wait until final forearm shaping is done, then shape for loop and drill, or c) make a wider loop?



Next turned attention to fitting the trigger bars. The sear bar for the Davis Jaeger lock sits pretty low in stock it seems, so getting trigger plates down to where they did not interfere with setting got them, seems to me, to be fairly thin. You think they will be OK?

[smart dog]

Hi,
It is fine to drill and mount the swivel but I would only worry about the position of the screw not fitting the swivel until you are final finishing the stock. Second, make sure the swivel will lay against a ramrod pipe when the gun is held vertically such that the sling will not interfere with returning the ramrod.


With respect to the triggers, fit them as if the front trigger is a simple trigger.  Just make sure the lever on the set trigger will hit the sear of the lock.  Assuming you want to shoot the gun successfully with triggers set and unset, to achieve decent unset trigger pull you need to position the front trigger lever as you would a simple trigger and forget the rear lever as long as that lever still hits the sear even if only at its very end.  The height of the bars in not important as long as they contact the sear when fired.

dave

[BJH]

Re:Sling loop lug. Normally if I plan to install a sling loop lug I make a trestle shaped block just a bit narrower than the barrel flat. Your clearance hole in the block should be on the snug side. The clearance hole through the fore stock should be generous. This prevents the sling bolt from twisting in the stock and splitting the forend. This proved out nicely when I slipped and fell on ice landing on top of my rifle. The bolt bent slightly but the stock wasn’t damaged. Although I was sore for a week. You can easily make another sling stirrup by forging a nail flattened, bending, drilling and tapping for the bolt. I’m betting you can easily dress the forend down and fit your existing sling swivel. Precarved stocks are normality too heavy. I personally would not use a narrow lug in the barred for the above reasons. BJH

[smylee grouch]

I don't know if you had planned on one or not but some guys like the sling bolt to also go through a lug on the barrel. Just the forearm wood supporting the sling might not be strong enuf.