Is there a return from Iron Nitrate gone too dark ?

[HarmsWay]

I recently acquired a nice half stock .40 built in the 1960's... It's a very well built rifle. However,.. The curly maple stock is very,very dark. I might be wrong, but I believe that it was treated with Iron Nitrate, And possibly never neutralized (which is an assumption on my part)... If you hold it in the right light, You can see the maple has a high level of character, But its so dark, it almost looks black.
I built several rifles back in the day, and actually used Iron Nitrate to enhance the grain... But I never had to fix the effects of a stock getting so dark before. Although I still do a lot of firearms repair.... I figured, I better get advice from some others that have crossed this bridge before...

Thanks in advance for any advice that may help....
With best regards.

[rich pierce]

It’s usually skin deep. It’s a lot of work but you could work the whole gun over with steel wool.

[Jim Kibler]

I'd expect you would have to sand it back.  You could then over coat with aniline dyes to adjust.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I agree with Jim.  I'd sand that stock with blocked sandpaper.  The curl in the wood will remain black and the sandpaper backed with a piece of spruce or the like, will take the stain off the tops of the mountains, leaving a very pleasing stain.  Steel wool will exaggerate the rippled surface of the stock and will likely not be aggressive enough to take away much of the black.

[Mike Brooks]

I'd probably try a purple scrubby first to see what happens.

[Daryl]

I expect Mike is talking about purple Scotch Brite.

[Matt Evans]

I like them dark, but ya that one is a bit to dark. I would start on the wrist and forend and maybe a bit on the cheek of the stock, in the areas that would be handled and wear the finish. Definitely use a finer abrasive material. I’m also thinking scotch pad and elbow grease. Maybe if the scotch pad isn’t cutting it some steel wool or 2000 grit wet dry paper.

[Dphariss]

I would try rottenstone and linseed oil as a carrier. It should bring the color back with out too much wood removal and a very smooth finish.
The stain was probably a store bought “Aqua fortis” that is adulterated with hydrochloric OR they did not make the stain right or just used  acid and never did a baking soda wash or they added iron but not enough to deplete the acid properly. Properly made ferric nitrate will not do this. Its color fast.

[P.W.Berkuta]

I got a rifle stock that color and it's with the same AF that I have been using for years. I got the AF from Eric Kettengburg and I believe it was a 6/1 ratio.
I've used it on many maple guns and this one is the only one that it turned black. I think it was the wood's mineral content that caused it. When the stock was blushed with a heat gun it turned immediately dark and when I applied the oil finish it went black. The color grew on me and I left it as is.

[HarmsWay]

Thanks for all the suggestions so far,... Keep those ideas coming !.... I have several arms on the repair rack I'll have to get to first, As well as a quick trip south for a week. So I wont get into this one until late January. I think I'll start with the least invasive process, in the least conspicuous place I can find.... Then proceed until I can find a suitable solution. Worst case scenario,... It stays dark.. And I'll give you a range report in the spring...

But please keep those suggestions coming !

Thanks guys, and as always.
Best Regards     

[P.W.Berkuta]

I just took a picture of the rifle that I posted above - it's on my wall - I enhanced the pictures a bit using the computer.

[Mike Brooks]

All the guns I built years ago and used Wakon Bays's Aqua Fortis on are now black, neutralized or not.

[shootrj2003]

How about Ajax with bleach applied with a grey scrubby from auto body parts 800 grit equiv. It’s only a little to dark…!

[shootrj2003]

Or wood bleach,used with caution,don’t want to go too far,that’s doubtful as dark as that is,but I d use it with care..it’s also quite hazardous,eyes ,breathing etc. The thing is the finish -oil varnish,laquer wax,etc.,will shield the color and needs to be removed if you don’t remove it all it will shield leaving dark areas.chemical removers will prevent changing profiles and lines, but have their problems.

[Mike Brooks]

Wood bleach?

[shootrj2003]

Yes there is three ways ,laundry bleach,the least effective,or woodworkers bleach based on oxalic acid bought a hardware stores in powder form,and real strong stuff and an,expensive ,two part bleach, a mix of lye and hydrogen peroxide you mix from bottles .my guess would be the hardware store bleach would do the job nicely providing you get the finish off,it’s pretty good stuff but gloves ,face mask and ventilation would be a real good idea,it stinks and can burn ,if you follow precautions,you’ll be fine.if you know of a good woodworker he may do it for a small fee.

[Top Jaw]

Since it’s already this dark, I like the suggestion of rubbing back or sanding back the wear areas first (or more).  And possibly stopping short of doing the entire stock end to end to a uniform level.  That would be more appealing in this case - at least to me. 

In my limited experience with smaller projects, and depending on the type and depth of the finish used,  very fine sandpaper (400 or 600 grit) may likely become the best method in the end to get through both the finish and the AF stain - unless your also after a good upper body workout. 😀. If it’s a thinner linseed oil finish from back in the day, less aggressive methods should work. 

[Mike Brooks]

Fine sandpaper will clog up with finish quickly.

[Jim Kibler]

Pumice or the maroon scotchbrite may work.  Worth a try.  Mineral oil (baby oil) will help in the rubbing back process.  You can also use mineral on the sandpaper if you are having difficulty with clogging.  I would try 320 grit or 400 grit sandpaper.  If you come back with dye stains, they won't care about the mineral oil.

Jim

[Tim Crosby]

Wood bleach?

   Oxalic acid, I have used it to lighten aged wood, like a deck darkened with age but never on a stained/finished piece. White vinegar will do about the same.

   Tim

[Scota4570]

I agree with Jim.  I bet it will really pop if rubbed back.  This is the one place I use BLO diluted with solvent. 

[J.M.Browning]

Just choose one of many abrasive products - take as much black out as you desire - its really not that difficult . Just carful so the metal does not stand proud when you are done .

[Dphariss]

Another way, besides the rottenstone, is to wet sand with fine wet or dry paper 600 or finer even 1500. Using boiled linseed as the wetting agent. I have used both ways on stocks that were too dark. The wet or dry paper is the best for one this dark I think.

[Jerry V Lape]

I had a stock go black when blushing the aqua fortis.  I used 400 grit sandpaper to cut it back and the result was beautiful.  Black stripes and gold tones in between.   Used a cork backing for the sandpaper and it took a while plus quite a bit of the abrasive paper.  As a side note.  Skiers use a wood tool with a thick cork working surface to apply and smooth ski wax.  I find it a handy tool for sanding.

[Metalshaper]

Jim Turpin advocates a hot water and scotch brite scrub to cut back the black of a Aqua Fortis stain. Water to keep the dust down and
I suspect it helps in flushing away build up. when your finished, the 'dry' stock should look kinda grey and and a bit ugly. Then hit it with your
 finish( or test it with a bit of water ) and you will see the grain and curl POP..

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan