Screwdriver steel

[smylee grouch]

I want to make a short screwdriver to carry when hunting just to change flints. The slots in the top jaw screw's are somewhat thin so I don't like those hardware store screwdrivers as I dont think the steel is tough enuf to turn those flints in tight when I reduce the driver blade down that thin. SO should I use tool steel like O1 or would COLD ROLLED be OK?   

[P.W.Berkuta]

Drill a 1/8" hole in the jaw screw so you can use a 1/8" "tommy bar" instead of a lousy thin bladed screwdriver and be done with it. May not be correct for your lock but it works darn good.

[Dennis Glazener]

I would use the 01, also good for chisels, punches etc
Dennis

[smart dog]

Hi,
I file the slots in top jaw screws to a decent depth and thickness so a stout screw driver can fit.  Most of the slots on the commercially made locks and replacement top jaw screws are way too thin and shallow.  The slots on original guns generally were fairly wide and "V" shaped so a knife blade or chisel shaped turn screw would work.  I also harden and temper the heads of top jaw screws so the slots resist wear.

dave

[Bob Roller]

A knife blade works for this because there is not a lot of rotation involved.
Bob Roller

[Pukka Bundook]

Smylee,
As others have said, deepen and widen the slot, and a hole cross-wise is very good too.
To make the  actual turnscrew, I have used old band retaining springs , from guns like the Swedish Mausers.
They can be made thin but never want to twist.




This one is my primitive sort!
Buffalo toe bone from the muskeg here .
Overall length is about 2- 1/4 inches.

[smylee grouch]

Thanks everyone for your imput. I was thinking of a 3\8 inch rod with tip ground to fit, inside a  3\8 inside dia. Tube just Inside the tube that would fit over the body of the screw and blade in the screw slot. Because of macular degeneration I can't see very well up close so thought the tube soldered on as a guide would help me get and keep the blade in the slot. Somewhat poor arrangement of words here but I hope you get the idea. 🤔 

[Daryl]

Taylor and I have made screw-drivers out of screw drivers from the Dollar Store, silver soldering the shank into a piece of copper.
The copper is for knapping the flint.

[Jim Kibler]

Modern screw slots tend to be parallel sided, largely for ease of production.  In my view, a v slot from a knife file is superior.  When building custom guns, I would typically file all screw slots to this configuration with a knife file.  The look right and work better.

[smart dog]

Hi,
Just for historical reference, many turnscrews were made from broken mainsprings.

dave

[Pukka Bundook]

Dave,
That was The way to make them!

[Jerry]

I have made turn screws out of different size hex (Allen) wrenches. Just grind them to size and put a handle on them. The Allen wrenches has good steel in them. I sometimes case harden the flint jaw screw. Jerry

[bluenoser]

Smylee,
It took a minute to get my head around what you were suggesting, but think I am there.  I believe it should be an excellent solution to your problem and would like to see the finished product.  Would the outer tube extend slightly beyond the screwdriver to aid in guiding it to the slot?

[smylee grouch]

Hi bluenoser, yes I was thinking the tube would extend down past the tip of the blade to about the middle of the " bulb " on the top jaw screw. I thought maybe an index mark on the tube to help align the screwdriver tip with the screw slot.Hopeing this would make it easier to get the tip in the slot and keep it there. I will be opening up the slot too as suggested but when you can't see up close its frustrating. Thanks for the reply.   

[bluenoser]

A notch filed into the end of the shroud should be easy to feel.

[smylee grouch]

Yes I agree. I can see up close with reading ( 3.5 x ) glasses but that would just be one more item of clutter in my shooting/hunting kit.

[David R. Pennington]

I use tool steel or 5160. Mild steel won’t do for a tool. It needs to have enough carbon so it will harden and temper. I usually draw the temper on turn screws to a violet almost blue.
I made a small one that fits in my patch box too.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

A couple of years ago, I made up a batch of flint knapper/turnscrews to be awarded for prizes, and several of them went out to winners of the ALr postal matches.
I used 1/4" drill rod for the bits:  cut them to length, heated the tops in oxy/acet and forged the tip out thin and flared.  I then ground them to finished shape, polished them and hardened and tempered them.  I like my knapping tool/turnscrew to fit both lock screws, the tang screw and the top jaw screw for the lock, and I file those slots to accomplish that, with a knife file.  I case harden lock and tang screws, and top jaw screws these days are usually of tool steel.

[smylee grouch]

Is that drill rod an oil or water hardening steel? 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I use Canola oil.  I've not had a tool bend or break.  Heat to bright red, quench.  Re=polish, heat til the business end of the rod turns bright blue.

[smylee grouch]

Thanks for that info Taylor. I have a forge but no coal at this time so will.  use a torch

[Daryl]

Modern screw slots tend to be parallel sided, largely for ease of production.  In my view, a v slot from a knife file is superior.  When building custom guns, I would typically file all screw slots to this configuration with a knife file.  The look right and work better.

The "blade" on my turn-screw has been modified to fit the hammer's top screw.

[smylee grouch]

I searched locally today for some drill rod but struck out. Several online sources had it in three foot pieces but that seemed overkill when I need about a 5 inch piece. So am thinking of using a 3\8 inch grade 8 bolt. Any opinions? 

[David R. Pennington]

You can repurpose lots of things. Old drill bits, old chisels, some old wrenches have pretty good steel. Hay rake teeth. Old springs. You could use charcoal in your forge. Just mind the sparks. I make lots of things from junk. A pretty good test to see what you have is putting it to the grinder and observing the sparks. Dull red sparks: mild steel. Dull orange heavy long sparks: wrought iron. Lots of fine bright streaks that have explosive sparks on the end: high carbon (that’s what you want).