Making a lock from scratch - mule ear style

[bvolcko]

I inherited a rifle minus lock mechanism.  After much searching I discovered its a mule ear lock I'm looking for/need.  The rifle was made by  W. Roberts Dansville NY   I think I want to make the lock myself.  What type of steel should I be looking for?

[P.W.Berkuta]

I would make the lock plate and bridle out of 1018 cold rolled steel and the other internal parts from O-1 tool steel. The springs from 1075 spring steel.

[Bob Roller]

Mr.Berkuta said it right.A side slapper is one I never tried.None of these steels are hard to work with and readily available.
Bob Roller

[2 shots]

 are you sure its not just missing the drum? hole looks a little large for a nipple.. after looking again, maybe not.

[tom coffey]

I will be watching this. I'd love to follow along if you make your own side slapper!

[bvolcko]

I think I'm really showing my ignorance here, but, what kind of steel is a lawn mower blade?
Yesterday I made the side plate out of 1/4" from a I beam.

Also, I assume the "bridle" is the linkage from the spring to the hammer?
Thanks for the help!
BV

[Jim Kibler]

If you want to have a chance making a lock from scratch, you better find an example to have in hand and look at while making it.

Jim

[bvolcko]

I do have one made by a gunsmith long deceased.

[P.W.Berkuta]

There are books or the YouTube you could use as reference to see how the lock works and the parts that are inside that make it work. Asking questions here is good BUT you need more reference material. Your lock plate looks good. The bridle is the part that supports the tumbler and sear. You do need to get some drawings on the parts of the / a lock to see how each part interacts with one another. Good luck

[Bsharp]

 bvolcko, are you using a print for your side slapper design?

[bvolcko]

No print, no drawing, just pictures from the internet and my rifle and some parts I bought at a gun show 25 years ago.

[Bob Roller]

Bridle,tumbler sear and spring and mainspring and only the plate is missing.The side striker looks ready to go.The nipple hole in the barrel may be OK for a 5/16x24 or a custom 38x24.This is one answer to 2 threads.In our museum here in Huntington WVa we have a long rifle that could be called an "over striker" with the nipple on the 45 degree flat to the right of the top and it's cocked by pushing the thumb spur down.Also on display is an Ellis rifle that has a lock that that slides from front to rear and 4 superposed loads in the barrel.Just remember to front one goes first,reprime the lock,slide it back and hope for the best outcome. .
Bob Roller

[bvolcko]

The lock in the above photo, I got from an old gunsmith  I don't know if he made it or what.  Its pretty crude.  It has finish nails for pins and the edge distance from pin to edge of the pinned metal is almost zero in some cases.
I plan on using it as a model, but definitely  not a duplicate...it doesnt fit my gun.

[Bsharp]

You can buy parts for the L&R side hammer, if you can make them fit and work.

Easier than making them, sometimes.

[Metalshaper]

kit from the 1980's that I can't find out who made these??


original Medberry lock






two fo mine, I still need to finish an put in guns



drawing made from a Navy Arms Muley, my friend and I measured up..

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

[44-henry]

Here is one that I started building years ago. Never did get around to finishing it, but it is on my to do list at some point. Interestingly enough I used a W. Roberts lock as a model and it would likely drop into the mortise on your rifle.

[tom coffey]

related questions... Would the hole for a drum in a barrel from a caplock, that has a drum, be located in the right location for a mule ear lock? Just change the hole size to fit the threads of a nipple?