Author Topic: Hunter's Star  (Read 1258 times)

Offline Bob Rearley

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Hunter's Star
« on: February 14, 2024, 09:51:08 PM »
Gentlemen ,
Preparing to install my hunter's star on the cheekside of this Martin Sheetz gun.  Peter Alexander describes a technique he uses in which he cuts a reverse chamfer on the perimeter of the star thus capturing the edge of the star in the mortise cut in the same manner.  Opposite the mortise cut for the usual inlay.  I cannot tell how the star was inletted on this gun.  I don't see any pins and the points are still well down in the mortise.  I'm using .04 fine silver.  I hesitate to use this technique for fear of loosing the remaining wood star points  All guidance and suggestions are appreciated.
Thank you, Bob

Offline smallpatch

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Re: Hunter's Star
« Reply #1 on: February 15, 2024, 02:31:33 AM »
Undercutting is NOT necessary.  File a draught for a clean inlet.  Inlay flush. Most original inlays were pinned in, or screwed. You can also cheat ( I do) solder a small screw on the back, and epoxy it in place.
 Very clean.
In His grip,

Dane

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Hunter's Star
« Reply #2 on: February 15, 2024, 09:29:44 PM »
Excellent advice Dane!
D. Taylor Sapergia
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Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Hunter's Star
« Reply #3 on: February 15, 2024, 10:32:53 PM »
Here's a few pictures of a hunter's star I inlet into a Rupp styled rifle.  I used .032" fine silver, and I also made the escutcheon pins (nails) out of the same material.  As well, there are four copper nails made from electrical wire.

First the cut out star is laid on the cheek and held down with a couple of leather nails.  These are soft iron and have a very fine sharp point.  the shaft of the nails has a slight taper, so they work well for this task.



Then the penciled outline is cut inside the marks with a variety of chisels, narrow and flat and sweeps. Most of this stabbing in can be done with a very narrow flat chisel with a rocker edge.




Once you have cut down all around the periphery, you can undercut the inside of the inlay area with a narrow flat chisel, taking out a narrow steep channel right up to the edge of the inlet.




Now remove the ground inside the inlet area with a gouge or sweep...I use a 1/4" gouge, cutting across the grain from the edges of the inlet into the centre.




Use sharp flat chisels and scrapers to flatten the inlet.





Now, use inletting pigment, (I use Jarrow's black from Brownell's), and inlet the silver into the inlet.  Cut only the wood that is marked by the black, until finally, the silver is flush with the stock and there are no gaps.





Make your escutcheon nails out of the sheet silver unless you are able to buy them from a jeweller's supply, and countersink the corresponding holes in the inlay to receive them.  Pre-drill the holes with an undersized number drill, and tap them down.  This will pull the inlay down into and likely a little below the surface of the stock.  Use blocked sandpaper to take the silver and wood down together, and to keep the plane true without walloooooons.  Remember the silver is thin, so don't go crazy with coarse files.







When you apply you whisker the stock, any small inletting gaps will likely close up from the wood swelling where it was crushed along the edges of the inlet, and the finish will further fill small gaps.  Here's the finished picture...





When I built this rifle for my friend Brian Dancey, I consulted Allen Martin regarding design details and he was most helpful.  Not a Sheetz rifle, but the process is the same.  In fact, I believe this star is the most difficult to inlet well since it wraps around the upper edge of the rifle's comb and is concave on the cheek piece.  It takes some careful planning and consideration.  Thanks Allen.


« Last Edit: February 15, 2024, 10:37:26 PM by D. Taylor Sapergia »
D. Taylor Sapergia
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Art is not an object.  It is the excitement inspired by the object.

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Hunter's Star
« Reply #4 on: February 15, 2024, 10:40:02 PM »
I some how got the pictures out of order and got a double where I wanted the one on the bottom.  But I hope you can follow these and that they might make your job a little easier.  Once again, you can double click these pics to enlarge them to full screen.
D. Taylor Sapergia
www.sapergia.blogspot.com

Art is not an object.  It is the excitement inspired by the object.

Offline Bob Rearley

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Re: Hunter's Star
« Reply #5 on: February 16, 2024, 11:39:11 PM »
Thank you gentlemen.  Great photos and details.  I plan to engrave the patch box of the gun mounted in Bondo.  I plan to use the Kibler aqua fortis and the Jim Chambers finish.  In what order would you recommend I install the patch box.
Thanks Masters All, Bob

Offline Gaeckle

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Re: Hunter's Star
« Reply #6 on: February 20, 2024, 07:41:52 PM »
Bob, I did a step by step description of putting in an inlay, and it was placed in a cheek piece. I did this 'tutorial' in September of 2023. It's called "Inlays, how I do it". I'd link you to that but I  don't know how to do that

Offline Frozen Run

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Re: Hunter's Star
« Reply #7 on: February 20, 2024, 07:59:05 PM »
Bob, I did a step by step description of putting in an inlay, and it was placed in a cheek piece. I did this 'tutorial' in September of 2023. It's called "Inlays, how I do it". I'd link you to that but I  don't know how to do that

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=78233.0

Offline Mike Brooks

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Re: Hunter's Star
« Reply #8 on: February 20, 2024, 08:05:33 PM »
Gentlemen ,
Preparing to install my hunter's star on the cheekside of this Martin Sheetz gun.  Peter Alexander describes a technique he uses in which he cuts a reverse chamfer on the perimeter of the star thus capturing the edge of the star in the mortise cut in the same manner.  Opposite the mortise cut for the usual inlay.  I cannot tell how the star was inletted on this gun.  I don't see any pins and the points are still well down in the mortise.  I'm using .04 fine silver.  I hesitate to use this technique for fear of loosing the remaining wood star points  All guidance and suggestions are appreciated.
Thank you, Bob
I'd throw that book away. It gets people in trouble more often than helps out.  It's all about getting the bend just right on the star. With the proper bend it will lay right in there. The propper bend is difficult to achieve. I use nails of the same material as the inlay when I want them to disappear. I'm sure Sheetz did the same thing. Those little arms on a hunter star are like octopus tentacles, always waving around where they aren't supposed to be. ;D
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Say, any of you boys smithies? Or, if not smithies per se, were you otherwise trained in the metallurgic arts before straitened circumstances forced you into a life of aimless wanderin'?

Offline Gaeckle

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Re: Hunter's Star
« Reply #9 on: February 20, 2024, 08:17:51 PM »
What Mike says is true: get rid of that book.

Thank Donnie about the link! I need to learn how to do that....