Keeping the extension down on entry thimbles

[rich pierce]

I make my own thimbles and often of thin stock like originals.  Often while forming there’s some spring left or just obstinance that makes the rear end of the extension that lies over the fore-end want to pop up a little. Maybe it’s pride? 

I’ve taken to soldering a tiny steel spear point on the tail and jab that into place. Your mileage may vary; some never seem to have this problem.

[smylee grouch]

Yep, have done the same thing. I used some small brass nails.

[bluenoser]

Thanks for the tip.  I have a restoration on the bench and the replacement entry thimble is .032" thick.  I was concerned about keeping the tail in the inlet and that would do the trick quite nicely.

[oldtravler61]

   Rich over the years. Your tips an tricks has saved me many a time. Very grateful.....Oldtravler

[rich pierce]

Thanks for the tip.  I have a restoration on the bench and the replacement entry thimble is .032" thick.  I was concerned about keeping the tail in the inlet and that would do the trick quite nicely.

Should do. This one is also 0.032” thick. I have an awl I use to poke the hole for the spike. Otherwise the middle section of the tail is under pressure and wants to hump up!

Mike, good to hear from you and thanks for the encouragement.

[sdilts]

I used to put a dab of epoxy on the tail to hold it down. Now I do like Rich. Works great.

[smallpatch]

I confess, I’ve done the same.
However, I do believe it’s a fakeout for the best inletting. Unfortunately, it’s sometimes very difficult to get the entry pipe properly adjusted to the proper offset.
Sooooooo, we sometimes pin the tail.

[JasonR]

I follow your idea Rich and makes sense. Makes me concerned thinking if that tip popped out and what it could do to your hand. You likely already do this but I usually place 2 pins in the rear entry and slightly bend the extension to avoid wobble. If I have a little more resistance from work-hardened brass it tends to keep it in place for me.

[Steeltrap]

In the next thread......builders who use sandpaper with nothing to back it up but their fingers!! 

[Bob Gerard]

What a perfect looking fit! That’s something like how the long  side prongs (stirrups) of a pistol pommel are set into the stock.  I bet it will work great!
Though no prolific or artistic builder, I sometimes will slightly bend the point downward a bit and then press the rear entry pipe into place. The pointed tang gives in and fits into the inlet and the bend-memory keeps it snug.

[rich pierce]

I’ve never used pins, although I may try that on a wide skirt. Often I have about 1/8” of wood between the rear thimble skirt and the ramrod hole, and broke through once. I also worry about dimpling the skirt though once I started peening pins with a punch instead of a hammer I’ve made a lot fewer dings. If I was making thimbles of 0.045” stock I’d have more rigidity and fewer obstacles. It depends on the build.

[Tim Crosby]

 Couldn't you anneal and give it a slight downward bend? Just enough to make it fit but not noticeable. You could then reharden it it wanted.

    Tim   

[rich pierce]

Couldn't you anneal and give it a slight downward bend? Just enough to make it fit but not noticeable. You could then reharden it it wanted.

    Tim

Could do. As I said, some may not have any issues or use different approaches. The thin stock and the tapering end of this skirt makes the whole process a bit more complicated for me. It’s not easy to work harden brass without changing dimensions. The whole entry thimble fabrication and inletting takes me a while!

[Gaeckle]

Couldn't you anneal and give it a slight downward bend? Just enough to make it fit but not noticeable. You could then reharden it it wanted.

    Tim

Don't anneale it, it becomes too soft. You want it somewhat springy and you put a slight bend in the skirt where it connects to the thimble. When pinning the thimble put a clamp (small c-clamp) to add pressure downwards. Since the skirt is bent down  it acts as a spring and keeps the skirt firmly in the mortise

[rich pierce]

Couldn't you anneal and give it a slight downward bend? Just enough to make it fit but not noticeable. You could then reharden it it wanted.

    Tim

Don't anneale it, it becomes too soft. You want it somewhat springy and you put a slight bend in the skirt where it connects to the thimble. When pinning the thimble put a clamp (small c-clamp) to add pressure downwards. Since the skirt is bent down  it acts as a spring and keeps the skirt firmly in the mortise

Good technique. I can’t figure out how to form a thimble from sheet brass without annealing it, though. This would work for boughten thimbles.

[Eric Kettenburg]

[P.W.Berkuta]

I make my own thimbles and often of thin stock like originals.  Often while forming there’s some spring left or just obstinance that makes the rear end of the extension that lies over the fore-end want to pop up a little. Maybe it’s pride? 

I’ve taken to soldering a tiny steel spear point on the tail and jab that into place. Your mileage may vary; some never seem to have this problem.

Smart idea - I've also had this problem - now I know how to fix it - Thanks -

[rich pierce]

If I had a hammer!

[Gaeckle]

Couldn't you anneal and give it a slight downward bend? Just enough to make it fit but not noticeable. You could then reharden it it wanted.

    Tim

Don't anneale it, it becomes too soft. You want it somewhat springy and you put a slight bend in the skirt where it connects to the thimble. When pinning the thimble put a clamp (small c-clamp) to add pressure downwards. Since the skirt is bent down  it acts as a spring and keeps the skirt firmly in the mortise

Good technique. I can’t figure out how to form a thimble from sheet brass without annealing it, though. This would work for boughten thimbles.

Work harden it, use a little block of wood

[rich pierce]

Lots of good suggestions! Great discussion.

[BJH]

I don’t know how widespread this detail may be. In upper Susquehanna guns I’ve seen, often the points of inlays were tipped down into the wood. Perhaps dinged down after the gun was built, or the inlay was slightly cupped so when pinned flat the points dug in. These guns commonly had lots of inlays. Gust a thought...BJH

[Hungry Horse]

 Good grief, where were you thirty years ago? I was asked to refinish an antique muzzleloader that was still in use. It had lost most of its finish, all of its barrel finish, and many of it inlays. I began the repair by gently removing hardware, dents, and furniture pins. But when I got to the entry thimble I hit a wall. With everything that I could imagine removed, it wouldn’t budge. Eventually, after blazing right by all the warning signs of impending disaster, I popped a chip out of the forearm and discovered what you show here. A clever way to keep the tail of the inlay right where it belongs.

Hungry Horse